When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I made an adaptor that screwed into the spark plug hole. Took a spark plug and smashed the porciline (sp) out of it and braised an tube on it with a quick disconnect fitting, hook it up to my compressor @ 100 psi.
Ok, I'll go out do a compression check and see. How long should it hold the pressure before it bleeds down with the compression checker still attached?
Could I just hook up a tire inflator to my compression gauge and pump in air till it hits a 100 psi?
the compression test will only test the maximum pressure that the cylinder produced (125psi)
here's what you should do.unplug the power at the coil, if carb'ed wire the throttle wipe open, remove all the plugs and install the compression tester into #1 spark plug hole. If you can hook a remote starter switch to the starter cellinoid (sp) do so, if not have a friend work the key while you watch the rubber line on the compression tester. you want at least 3 hits from the cylinder being tested, watch the hose and it will swell just enough to indicate a compression stroke, some times they bounce all over the place.
write down all the pressures and go from there.
You might find that two cylinders side by side will be way down on compression and this would indicate a bad gasket.
as far as the 100psi test you need an air compressor, you can't pump up the cylinder like a tire.
Last edited by HemiEater; Dec 23, 2006 at 08:20 AM.
I have an air compressor, I was think of hooking up the compression tester and then hooking up a tire inflater to the bleed off valve on the compression tester to pump the cylinder up to a 100psi, then crank the motor over. Does that make any sense?
I think that would work but you might want to remove the gauge, it might brake it. You will have to hold the air supply on while you are turning it over. It should turn over and then stop on the compression stoke, keep the starter engaged for a few seconds. Make sure you remove the radiator cap and fill the system with water.
100psi at BDC is a lot of pressure normally is under a vacuume so when it comes up on compression psi must go to the moon just like when it fires.
Ok, did the compression test. These are dry values, didn't bother with the 2 squirts of oil. Some vary a little but its probably due to the rings have not seated fully yet since I only have about 20 mins of run time on the motor.
No. 7 is off the charts, the first test it went to 75 and held. The next test it went to 5, then next test it jumped to 25, then to 5 and finally to 80psi. What the hell is going on there?
Here are the results:
OK, I decided to do a wet test as well. I put a measured amount of 30wt oil in each hole just before testing that hole. It increased my psi any where from 3-5 psi on each hole except #7. It only got to 10 psi this time. The funny thing is, what ever it maxes out at it will hold that pressure till I release it. Thats whats got me baffled, if it were a bent valve or a stuck open valve it would bleed off very quickly.
it just holds the pressure at the gauge, that's what the release valve is for. It sends the pressure to the gauge and holds it there until you release it. Gives you time to read it...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.