Replacing water pump, need advice.

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Dec 15, 2006 | 10:05 AM

Highmark18

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From: Minnesota

Replacing water pump, need advice.

Looks like I will be replacing my water pump this weekend, I have a small leak that looks to be coming from the bottom of the pump (weep hole?) I thought the pump would go further, just turned 100,000 miles.
My question is: Which way does the fan thread on, and do I need any special tools? How much coolant should I plan on getting to replace what I lose? Any advice from someone who has done this is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Dec 15, 2006 | 10:14 AM

Uzumati

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From: Central, Al

The fan is reverse thread, most autoprts stores will "Loan" the tools to get it done. The entire system holds almost 8 gallons of coolant, I think I drained close to 4.5 gallons when I did my pump a few weeks ago. Grab a can of Permatex "The Right Stuff" it will make resealing the thermostat housing easy.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=25380

Dec 15, 2006 | 10:22 AM

nodakford

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From: South Dakota

Changing the waterpump out is not that bad of a job. The fan nut should be a 1 7/8 nut. What I did is removed a couple bolts holding the pully on. I took a piece a steel bar stock, about a 1/4 in thick, 1" wide and about 30 " long and drilled a hole in it about 3" from the end. I then used the bolt from the waterpump pulley and screwed the bar stock on the pulley. It ends up working like a spanner wrench,as you rotate the fan nut the bar stock will jam up and hold the pulley and allow the nut to break free. I did not marr anything up doing it this way. I also had to use a dead blow hammer striking the wrench to get it to break free. 1 very important thing, Don't use the Ford torque for the waterpump mounting bolts! You will snap them off. The correct torque is 18 lbs.-ft. Found out the hard way. If I had to do it again, I would put Rotella ETC antifreeze in, instead regular antifreeze. Have to make sure you flush the block out really good. I ended up using 6 gallons of a 50-50 mix of antifreeze. Check your T-stat housing , if it is corroded you may want to think about changing it. They have a tendecy not to seal very good. The waterpump I got from Carquest had a o-ring for the inlet fitting. I used a t-stat housing gasket instead and it worked great. Hope this helps, good luck, Nodak!

Dec 15, 2006 | 11:29 AM

Highmark18

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From: Minnesota

Thanks guys, one more question. Should I go with the OEM ford pump or is an aftermarket fine. The one I called on said the bottom tube that bolts on the factory pump is replaced with a one-piece tube (aftermarket pump)-any difference between the OEM and factory? Oh, and left hand threads meaning standing there looking at it from the front, correct?

Dec 15, 2006 | 12:01 PM

Betthebux

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Good advice above. Also check out this link: http://www.diesel-central.com/News/waterpump.htm

Dec 15, 2006 | 12:22 PM

Uzumati

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From: Central, Al

Check that link in my post above I used a 1 piece airtex from oreilly's (MP Branded)

Dec 18, 2006 | 02:53 PM

Highmark18

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From: Minnesota

Put the new water pump in on Saturday night-big thanks to amiller93, nodakford and Betthebux for the advice. I printed off that article and followed it step by step. Just a few things I observed that may make it easier for the next guy...

Tried using the strap wrench to get the fan off, no way no how. Then made a tool thanks to nodakford's advice, worked perfect. Everything else went fine. One thing to note, before you install the new pump, check those 2 recessed screws that hold on the plate behind the impeller-both of mine were loose. I put some loctite on them and re-tightened them down. Also, watch the torque on the pump housing bolts like nodakford said, the manual is wrong, that would definitely snap off those bolts!

Thanks for the heads up on that!

Total job time-4.5 hours, because I struggled with that strap wrench for an hour before I made the tool to remove the fan clutch. Ford wanted 270.00 for a pump, found one at O'Reileys for 130.00.
Thanks again !