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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks
View Poll Results: what would you do?
Give it another good pressure wash and Zero Rust it
5
16.67%
suck it up and sandblast and epoxy prime it
21
70.00%
wash it good and use rustbullet
0
0%
wash it good and use por 15
4
13.33%
Voters: 30. You may not vote on this poll

sandblast or zero rust?

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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 02:52 PM
  #16  
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dffay
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: New Mexico
Also, the plus about going to the headstone maker is that they charge you for the miscellaneous job. Its not like the auto sand blasting "specialist" that charges you like its mechanic time or restoration client cost markup.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 07:42 PM
  #17  
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ksmith203
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From: Massillon, Ohio
I will sandblast mine and take to the powder coater.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 09:18 AM
  #18  
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oldsenile
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Joined: Aug 2004
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blast, prime, paint
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 09:25 AM
  #19  
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Okiedokie
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From: okla
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IMO, if you are going for a real glossy look, paint. If your are looking for durability with slightly less gloss, you can't beat powder coating.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 11:00 AM
  #20  
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Sore Knuckles
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Spend the time and do it right while you can. Blast, epoxy prime, and paint with quality paint . The worst sight is "hindsight". You get your truck all together and start detailing things and say 'why didn't I take the time and effort to clean up that frame" I'm just rambling from my own experience.

Hump
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:53 PM
  #21  
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dstruble
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Ringwood NJ
SANDBLAST then POR-15 !!!
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 07:51 PM
  #22  
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bobj49f2
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
A rust encapsulator applied over a sandblasted frame will out last paint, either epoxy primer or power coat. Both epoxy primer and powder coated paint will chip and scratch off. I used POR-15 on the bottom and top of my rusty floor and after it dried I could not scratch it off. It's tough as iron once dry. I am not fully endorsing POR-15 because it is costly and to top coat it you have to buy more of their pricey products to do so. I am going to try other brands of rust encapsulators like ZeroRust and Rustdoctor, which is water based, on future projects. Both of these say you can topcoat directly over them. The other benefit of POR-15, and the other, is they can be applied at home with just a brush and they lay down with a almost sprayed on finish.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 11:10 PM
  #23  
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428cobrajet
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Indianapolis, IN
The best frame product I have used is chassy saver. It takes very little prep work and it can be sprayed or brushed on with the same end look. Knock the rust of with a grinder and apply it. I use it at work on semi frames that see all the weather abuse not to mention all the materials we haul like lime, cement, and acids and I have not seen one peel yet. Most paint suppliers will give you a pint sample kit to try before you buy it and it not very expensive.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 09:43 AM
  #24  
WALFORD'S 56's Avatar
WALFORD'S 56
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: oh
I have tried chassis saver,and it is much cheaper to buy than the por 15,etc.,and it lays down nice,but while spraying is slightly non-uniform--or streaky.Although I sprayed primer over it for sanding purposes,it is as hard a surface as the other oxygen sealant type of materials.It can be sprayed over and I think I paid 28.00 a quart of chassis saver.I REALLY LIKE THAT I DO NOT HAVE TO BUY ANOTHER EXPENSIVE PRODUCT WHEN I CAN TOPCOAT WITH WHAT I WANT.Like 428cobrajet says --it is a good product.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 10:09 PM
  #25  
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darkman
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From: Pensacola Florida
My plan.

1. Sandblast
2. Use Dupont's Pre Cleano
3. Apply Pickle X
4. Apply Zero Rust

It is the consensus of some people that do this stuff for a living that those three products make a bullet proof finish for the frame. It is also the consensus of some of the people that I am a complete fool. I believe that some of the people are right but I'm not sure which ones that is.
 
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