View Poll Results: what would you do?
Give it another good pressure wash and Zero Rust it
5
16.67%
suck it up and sandblast and epoxy prime it
21
70.00%
wash it good and use rustbullet
0
0%
wash it good and use por 15
4
13.33%
Voters: 30. You may not vote on this poll
sandblast or zero rust?
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 830
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
sandblast or zero rust?
I am just looking to build a nice driver, probably never hit a show but would be upset if two years down the road it started to flake off. I have a 20 lb HF pressurized sandblaster that I have not used for 5 years. And If I hook up my two compressors together I can probably get 15 cfm at 90 psi. Obviously it would be alot faster to give it another pressure wash and zero rust it there is some paint but its mostly rusty old frame rails. If I have to remove the old paint from the volare clip I may as well sand blast it. If I have to sandblast I would use an epoxy primer. I have pressure washed it allready with my 3700 psi 13 hp pressure washer so there is no loose stuff there.
What route do you suggest?
Any guesstimates how long I would be sitting behind the sand blaster? Sending it out is probably not finacially an option.
What route do you suggest?
Any guesstimates how long I would be sitting behind the sand blaster? Sending it out is probably not finacially an option.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 25
From: San Mateo, CA
For the best job, I'd say sandblasting, epoxy primer, then hit it with a good catalyzed automotive paint in semi-gloss black.
I didn't do that because I didn't want to deal with the sand mess in my driveway nor the hazardous fumes from the catalyzed primer and paint in my garage.
For a decent job that avoids the mess and the toxic fumes:
1) wire brush the heck out of it (drill attachment)
2) clean it with Metal Ready or something similar to chemically treat the metal
3) rinse/degrease as good as you can
4) hit it with Zerorust to act as a primer, either a spray gun with a big tip (1.8+) or aerosol cans
5) top coat it with Chassis Black aerosol a day after the Zerorust. If you wait more than a couple days, you'll have to scuff the Zerorust.
I didn't do that because I didn't want to deal with the sand mess in my driveway nor the hazardous fumes from the catalyzed primer and paint in my garage.
For a decent job that avoids the mess and the toxic fumes:
1) wire brush the heck out of it (drill attachment)
2) clean it with Metal Ready or something similar to chemically treat the metal
3) rinse/degrease as good as you can
4) hit it with Zerorust to act as a primer, either a spray gun with a big tip (1.8+) or aerosol cans
5) top coat it with Chassis Black aerosol a day after the Zerorust. If you wait more than a couple days, you'll have to scuff the Zerorust.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 1
From: oh
Since you said that you would be mad if it peeled--then sandblast and prime and paint it.I would think 3-5 hours would be ok--if blaster works good,and have enough air pressure.Many people scrape-degrease it--pressure wash it--go over it with a die-grinder with wire brush --blow frame off and wipe down and use any of the good primers mentioned and primer it good.---still --I primed my inner fender area today on my 56 and primered it and it took me 4 hours just to do the inner fender area.--It looks good though!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Brandon, MS
I sandblasted mine then came back with POR-15.
But, it took me a lot longer than 5 hours. More like 50 hours but it sounds like you have a better air supply than I do and I was really, really **** about getting every last piece of dirt off. Not to mention there were some areas that had so much dirt and grease built up that I would easily spend 2 hours on the one place. Yours looks a lot cleaner than mine.
But, it took me a lot longer than 5 hours. More like 50 hours but it sounds like you have a better air supply than I do and I was really, really **** about getting every last piece of dirt off. Not to mention there were some areas that had so much dirt and grease built up that I would easily spend 2 hours on the one place. Yours looks a lot cleaner than mine.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Jane Lew, WV
I've done them different ways over the years. I still perfer sandblasting and a good etching primer followed with a quality paint. If you have a rich uncle, you can always go with powder coat! Notice, I said RICH uncle.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,867
Likes: 3,100
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I would go with the sandblasting and POR-15, or another rust encapsulator. A good rust encapsulator will hold up a lot better than epoxy primer and paint. Most encapsulators will fade by UV from the sun but if you're worried about that you can paint the encapsulator. POR-15 is a paint to paint over, others are cheaper and easier to work with.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 1
From: oh
Sandblasting is a big job.Many truck enthusiasts have just wire brushed and wire wheeled their trucks and had success and thought it was well done.Today with sandblasters so cheap and with all the different materials-other than sand--you get a better finished truck.I do not ever want another show truck.I had other vehicles with ground up restorations and I didn't have fun with them.Today I clean and diegrind and sand my parts that don't fit in the blast cabinet--and they hold up well.And I drive them and peel out and haul loads and have fun instead of dreading a flaw in my ride.I think if you are worried of all the mess sandblasting can make--there are other ways.It is cold in Ohio now and I sandblast in the cold--but I am older now and think twice before I blast my frame in 30 degree and worse weather.To farm the frame out is big bucks.I use a 5h.p. compressor with 45 gallon tank and 220 volt.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,495
Likes: 2
From: Northwest Fl
If you're considering it and have the equipment, you obviously know the advantages as well as the disadvantages already. In all likelihood, you will never have a better time than now to blast it.
Sandblasting will also give you the chance to really clean out all those new welds and inspect them before covering them up.
Sandblasting will also give you the chance to really clean out all those new welds and inspect them before covering them up.
Last edited by Huntsman; Dec 13, 2006 at 11:15 AM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
Paint stripper followed by putty knife followed by pressure washer followed by 3M/Roloc Scotchbrite disk on a die grinder. Didn't take all that long and left me with a beautiful shiny metal frame to weld on and paint/powdercoat.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,622
Likes: 3
From: okla
Have you checked with any sandblast folks in your area? Gosh I don't really remember how much I paid to have my 53 frame done, I bet no more that $100. Had my 40 Ford coupe frame blasted and powder coated for $250. I have done the scrape, strip, blow sand all over the place deal. I go to our local "car guy" sandblaster and it sure turns out nice for good paint adhesion.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 531
Likes: 1
From: New Mexico
The same guys around here (New Mexico) that do the marble and granite monuments and headstones, also sandblast truck and car frames. Its really cheap to haul it there in the bed of a pick up and leave them do it. With their equipment it usually doesn't take more than an hour.