I searched through and read alot of Sandblaster related posts but didn't find one that answered these questions. I just bought my first sandblaster tonight (small pressure fed 40# generic unit) and need some info. The instructions were pretty limited.

1. What kind of respirator should I get? Would it be the same kind the body shop guys use for painting? Same kind of filter?

2. I've heard alot of talk about Silicosis. If you have a good respirator, can you safely use silica sand without risk?

3. Can I use regular masonry sand / play sand if I screen out the junk first?

4. How do you know which nozzle size to use with which media?

5. How far should I open the air valve when blasting, how far do I open the sand valve? (I'll be mainly blasting paint/rust off a frame).

Any other tips will be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Congrats on yer new purchase! You will find it an invaluable time saving rust/paint removal tool!

1. What kind of respirator should I get? Would it be the same kind the body shop guys use for painting? Same kind of filter?

I use the kind with interchangable screw on dual canisters. It covers the nose and mouth and has seperate inlet/outlet holes to cut down on condensation. There are general purpose cotton filter barriers on the outside of the chemical cannisters. The kit is available at Lowes for under $30. I use the chemical vapor blocking canisters while sandblasting to catch the smallest particles possible. I definately don't want the sand and rust particles in my lungs. You can buy different canister types depending on what you're working on. Don't skimp and use just the plain paper nose and mouth filters.


2. I've heard alot of talk about Silicosis. If you have a good respirator, can you safely use silica sand without risk?

Good question. My respirator does not have any info in the instructions about the risks of Silicosis. That's why I use the chemical cannisters to catch the smallest particles possible.


3. Can I use regular masonry sand / play sand if I screen out the junk first?

You can, but the cost is prohibitive. Not to mention the time and frustration of sifting that stuff. I get 50lb bags of 80 grit sand blasting sand for $2 and some change at my local lumber yard. Each bag lasts for two or three turns in my pressure blaster when cleaning my rusty ol' '50 F1 frame. Even with the presifted sands you will need to sift it after using it to keep any gunk or big frame particles from clogging your lines.


4. How do you know which nozzle size to use with which media?

It depends on the job. The larger diameter nozzles allow for faster flow rates and for larger blast media(like crushed walnuts or big grit sand) to flow through. The smaller diameter nozzles allow you to use smaller media(like glass bead) and for a smaller concentrated blast area. For thicker heavy gauge metal like frames, springs, and hardware silica(sand) is usually appropriate. For thinner, soft metals, like body panels and fenders, etc. glass bead or plastic media is more appropriate. It will lessen the chance of blasting a hole through the metal or warping it. You should be able to find sand blast supply houses in yer phone book or online.


5. How far should I open the air valve when blasting, how far do I open the sand valve? (I'll be mainly blasting paint/rust off a frame).

That depends on your project and what type media you are working with. My blaster has an air valve on the top and an air valve on the bottom before reaching the sand valve. For sand blasting I use full pressure at the top and 3/4 pressure on the bottom with the sand valve open about 80percent with a large diameter tip. When glass bead blasting I keep the top and bottom air valves open to only 3/4 and the sand valve open about 60 percent with a small diameter tip. It is mainly trial and error. You will have to test out different tips and valve settings on your projects to get the best settings for your particular blaster.

Any other tips will be appreciated. Thanks!

1. Safety, Safety, Safety.
2. Always use a respirator.
3. Always wear long sleeves and leather gloves, and pants, and a hood.
4. Always check your hoses and valves for cracks or leaks before each use. (When you need new valves or tips you can find them at your local home improvement or discount tool stores.)
5. Use an inline water filter coming out of your air compressor and one at the inlet side of your blaster to keep the sand dry and free flowing. If you can't afford both put one at the blaster inlet port.
6. An old window screen makes a great sifter! And costs less than the metal pan sifters!


That's it for now. Have fun!

 

The chemical filter cartridges do not filter particulates. They are used for filtering gasses and usually contain activated charcoal. The best filter to use while sandblasting is a particulate filter cart specifically made for dust etc.

The chemical filter cart will filter out your, or your buddy's flatulence tho...

 

So, is something like this what I need?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47132

I guess I'd have to buy 2 of the replacement cartridges for it too:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47139

That'd bring my grand total up to about $51. Does that sound right?

Also, how do you know when the cartridges need replacement? Can they be cleaned and reused (I'd hate to blow 26 bucks each time they needed replaced).

 

That is the right type of mask. I would just check to make sure it uses the standard screw in replacement cartridges that are available at any supply house. That way you are not locked into some oddball cart only available this year from HF. Does it also take the chemical cart also? You might want to make sure that it will use both for a dual purpose unit.

There is a chemical that is used to test the chemical masks... If you can smell it they are bad. I am not sure on the dust cart other that if you can breath without laboring for breath. Some people can not tolerate these masks because they do restrict air flow some. I used to spend 8 hr shifts in a full face unit at work so I got used to it and sometimes forgot I had it on.

 

A quick tip -

For the window on the hood, we bought some clear plastic sheeting at home depot and are cutting our own. This way, I always have a clear window to see thru which helps a lot when the dust's flying.

 

your mask looks like it will do the job but you should do a fit test before you use it , you can put your hands were the filters go ,get them pluged try to breath in you should feel the mask pull in to your face,you can also use the sniff test too we use sacrin at work(fake sugar), you have to atomise it to work use your filters for particulate you should not taste the sacrin through them if you do you have a face seal leak, oh ya a good mask will be sold in differnt sizes my self I like 3M they fit good and they have good filters.
one more thing you can't see the particals that will cause sillycoses they are microscopic I know a lot about this stuff cus I got trained by 3M to do fit tests.
were I work we deal with a lot of dust.

also it should be NIOS aproved

 

I’ll share a few pointers from my experience with sandblasting of old car parts, 1) moisture, 2) clogging, 3) preparation, and 4) the hood’s glass. A good source is Tip in Ohio: http://tptools.com

1. Sandblasting uses a lot of air (volume) so use either 3/4 or 1 inch hose. With this volume comes condensation and moisture gets into the blaster hopper and into the hose and nozzle. Put a water separator right on the hopper. Assuming you’re using quick disconnects, put a valve on the air supply before the quick disconnect so you can shut off the air. You can use the water separator to bleed off the air in the hose. Nothing worse than disconnecting the air hose and having a 125 pound air whip shooting around.

2. Use good quality washed and sifted child’s play sand. I’ve successfully blasted on a tarp and recycled 80 percent of the sand. If the blaster didn’t come with its own screen sifter, make one. The biggest headache is starting the job only to have to stop because of small rocks clogging the nozzle. You have to remove the nozzle to clear which means shutting down the air.

3. Blasting doesn’t do well with grease or oil. Degrease and scrape the caked on stuff, it’ll make the job go much faster.

4. Assuming your using a respirator which has been mentioned, the hood you’ll wear should have a piece of glass over the face. On mine, it slides out. Get a bunch of spare pieces of glass for the hood. After a little while, the glass becomes “blasted” and is a pain to see thru.

My recent project: http://www.monmouth.com/~friartuck/30Linc-177(2).jpg


Chris

 

First of all, Chris, thanks for the info. I checked out your project pic and all I can say is "Wow!". Very nice.

Now, for my respirator woes. I went to 2 hardware stores, a building supply store, and 4 auto parts store today (pretty much everywhere in town) hoping to get a respirator locally and I couldn't find one that would work for sandblasting. I wanted to be able to try it on as was mentioned.

The ones I looked at ranged from $18 to $55 and all of the either said "for organic vapors" (which I assume means chemicals and not dust), or "not for sandblasting". There was one made by 3M that came in a plastic bag and cost around 20 bucks that didn't say what it was for, although it said it didn't have replaceable filters and that turned me off there. There were lots targeted to painters, but none for sandblasters.

At the last auto parts store, I bought 2 bags of Black Beauty (which I think is coal slag) and a handful of $1 disposable dust masks which I doubt are safe but I figured I could use them when sanding or grinding. The guy behind the counter said that's all he wears when he shoots Black Beauty since it's safer than silica.

What do you guys know about Black Beauty. Is it truely safe enough to use just a dust mask or should I wait on my real respirator for it as well?

 

Ken2600, You might try a rental yard that rents sandblasting equiptment. They should have a resparator that would work. Don't skimp in this area. Get the best possible. Also, amke sure that you have good eye protection.

Frank

 

Try the Sears Industrial respirator:

Sears Item #00918574000
Mfr. Model #18574
$39.99

It is good for organics and dust, even asbestos.

Replacement Cart #00918575000
Mfr. Model # 18575
$14.99 /pr.


Sears: http://www.sears.com/

 

The Sears respirator should work fine and get the extra cartridges. As for black beauty, check the size of this media. The stuff a friend gave me was too large to fit the nozzle. He got it from a job blasting bridges where they run a 175 pound trailer compressor and a "firehose" size line. Black Beauty may work in your small blaster, but it really roughens the surface and depending on what you're blasting, can warp the metal. For a smoother blast finish, use the sand. If you had a glass bead cabnet, then I would recommend carbide silica from Eastwood or Tip. It's too expensive to shoot and not recover, but does a great job.

Chris

 

well guys I think we not only have to worry about the sandblasting media, what about the 50 year old crud and paint ,lead and rust come to mind , don't forget it's the one's you can't see that will hurt you (micron scale)

 

Good points guys. I'll probably go ahead and get the Sears one. If I remember correctly, they'll even deliver free to my local Sears store if I order online. At least it used to be that way.

Thanks again for the tips. I don't know what I'd do without this forum and web site.

 

The Sears unit costs $15 more than HF but it comes with two GOOD filters -So which is the better deal???

Check the link above and enter the # given. There is info about delivery options