Yeah, I'm familiar with the company. My grandfather always had one of their catalogs lying around - I spent summers on his cattle & hay farm from the ages of 8 through 16.

Just looked up their website and used their store locator. It would seem there are NONE in Washington, Oregon, OR Idaho. The closest store to the Seattle area (where I am) would be California or Montana. Not exactly local and I'm afraid any savings would be spent on shipping....

 

back to the atf now days with the new diesel it realy wont work unless you use the old type f the dextrons have something that will make diesel go funky after a while not sure just what but just got back form the seminar for petro fuel stops and had to take all type of test on the new fuel it is all about the same but someone has to go to sleep
and i did get a pretty good rest a couple of times

 

I'm only typing this to see if my signature works.

 

yamaguy that wouldn't stand for yamaha would it if so what ya got we have two 450yz racing best in the desert here in these parts

 

Yea it does, We've had alot of em' out here over the years. A handful of old sleds, a wolverine atv and a couple of timberwolf atv'sMy brother just got a new Grizzly 700. Just bought a new atv but I went with a Arctic Cat, now I'm spending thanksgiving alone You can't beat a yamaha, but I went with somthing different I guess. It just looked so good.Time will tell

 

Since we are tackling additive questions here I thought I would shoot one for ya. A local service station is selling B2(2%) Biodiesel. Is that enough lubricacy for our IDIs to compensate for a form of fuel additive? Or would it be recommended to add additive anyway?

 

That's a good ? Dave I would like to know that as well. The Feece oil by me is selling a b11 blend that is about 10 to 12 cents a gal cheaper.

 

B2 or B5 should provide enough lubrication and allow you stop using additives, or atleast cut down significantly on how much you add. Maybe do a treatment every 10 tanks or so just to get the benefits for the additive provides other than lubricity.

The good thing about B2 or B5 also is that you won't have to worry much about your CFFP (Cold Flow Filter Plugging Point) as with that little amount of Bio the fuel basically behaves like regular No. 2 diesel.

Make sure you check/replace your fuel filter regularily when you first start running Biodiesel. Sometimes the Biodiesel has a tendency to strip some of the gum and varnish out of your fuel system that has built up over the years.
I have been running B40 in my trucks for quite some time now and it has been a really good experience. With the higher blends (B20 and B40) you will really notice quite a few performance changes. The most obvious thing I noticed was that the engines don't knock as much and run a lot quieter. This is due to the B40 having a Cetane number of about 45 (45) vs. barely 40 for No. 2 road diesel. The engines burn a lot hotter and hence the smoke I used to get has almost been completely eliminated even under very heavy accelerations.

One thought I had recently is that I probably could advance my timing a bit by running the C45 and get both better power and fuel economy. I will have to try that when I get some free time in the next few weeks.

 

Seb, where do get bio diesel up here?