Reverse or standard rotation? Looking to bump from the gears from a 3.55 LS to 4.10. I've seen kits for standard and reverse rotation front ends....not sure which my pickup has. Any insight into this ring and pinion swap would be appreciated.

Anybody recommend any brands? Or ones to stay away from?

Thanks,
Mr. M

 

It's been a while since I did mine, I believe they're reverse. You'll also need a new carrier.

What tires do you have? I had 33's and it's the same as the stock tires and 3.55's. I blew up the spiders in my open rear and it took out the gears so I changed them to 4.10 and added an LS to the rear. This was in my 89 Bronco with 5.0 / AOD. The E-AOD has a lower first, but depending on what you're doing you may want to go to 4.56's. I know it sounds high, but if I did the Bronco again and left the 33's I would go with 4.56's.

 

Is there a way to check and verify this? I currently have 31" tires and an E-aod. I do however, have a set of BFG 33" ready when I wear these out. But I shouldn't be putting those on for at least 6 months. Would 4.56 gears kill the gas mileage?

 

The factory set up when the rear axle is 4.10 is that the front Dana 44 will have 4.09 ratio.

 

The factory setup for this particular rig is 3.55. Does anyone know if the dana 44 in a '94 is standard or reverse rotation?

 

I believe that it is reverse rotation. I think that you can verify by looking at the center line of the pinion gear and noting if it is higher or lower than the center line of the axle shaft. Higher = reverse rotation. Lower=normal rotation.

Any gear supplier would be able to tell you immediately what is stock for the Ford TTB/IFS front axle.

 

Yes yours would be a reverse cut high pinion gear set, a lot of people call them reverse rotation but that is not the correct word for them it still rotates the same way as the others but the gears are cut different for the high pinion setup.

You will need different carriers for 4.10 and numerically higher gears

4.56 would work if you have overdrive but without overdrive it would be a bit low for highway speeds

 

29" tires and 3.55 gears = 33" tires and 4.10 gears. 29" is the stock tire size (235/75-15).

Just order gears for a TTB D44. You have to change the carrier if you go over 3.73 gears.

If you go with 4.10's and 33's you'll have close to stock performance and fuel economy. Both will be lower due to the added weight of the tires. I figured a 4.30 set would be perfect, but they don't make 4.30 gears for the front, just 4.10 and 4.56. I was happy with the 4.10's, but in hindsight I would have been happier with 4.56's.

I was doing minor off roading, towing the occasional car/trailer and other wise just driving hard around town.

4.56's will give you a boost for towing, hauling and offroad with a slight loss of gas milage on the highway. 4.10's will restore the performance you had with stock tires and boost performance over the 31's.

I just wanted to share my experiance, you have to decide what's right for you. I believe the RPMs at 60 will be about 2-300 higher with 4.56's.

 

First of all, thanks for your input so far as I this is a new endeavor for me. So I apologize if this question appears dumb. What does the carrier change add to the job? i.e. price etc. Since I will be going to 4.10's or above.

Haven't yet decided if I want the 4.56's. Sounds a bit outlandish as of yet!

Many thanks in advance,
Mr. M

 

I found a new open carrier for like $60. I reused my spider gears. I remember someone selling new track-lok's for like $200 or $250 in one of the 4-wheeler mags. Don't know if they're still avalable, but it wasn't that long ago.

 

f100beater~

Any idea on what its going to cost from start to finish. Including parts and labor to swap from a 3L55 (thats what the codes says on the rear diff) to a 4.56/4.10 set front and back? What would the cheapest route be? Ring and pinion sets...junkyard diffs? I'm open to suggestions

Thanks,
Mike

 

Unless you find a truck that someone built up you're not going to find 4.10's or 4.56's in the yards. It cost me $1,800, but I had other stuff done and added a $400 limited slip in the rear.

Do you have a limited slip in the front? I've heard that it was available in select years, but never confirmed it.

Do you have a limited slip in the rear? If so you may want new clutches. I thikn 3L55 is an LS. Look at the door sticker, it'll say H9 if it's a LS.

Gears with install kits will cost about $500 front and rear. Probably can find a kit for less, look at something like 4-Wheeler mag. Front open carrier is $60. Setup is about $350 per axle, so there's $700. Add any options that you want like rebuilt LS in the rear, new LS's, lockers... etc.

The front IMO is harder then the rear. Maybe you can get a junkyard center and have them build it on the bench and you can change it out on your own. They're like $50 at the local u-pull-it.

Where do you live? Maybe someone can give you names of local shops and you can call and get prices. I know they range from $250 - $500 around me. I've started to setup my own rears now. 2 so far and they've been good, no noise. The one was even with used gears. Basically I wanted to see how they felt so I didn't care if they made noise, but no one I talked to wanted to set them up. I did it myself and they're fine. Then I setup another rear for my cousin. It's not hard, but it's like patting your head and rubbing your stomach at the same time... Every adjustment you make affects the others...

Hope this helps. Also for 4.56's you'll need a special cross shaft, but that's no big deal. Also if you plan on going bigger then 33's I would go with 4.56's. If 33's are as big as you plan, 4.10's work nice, but for about the same money you can get 4.56's. If you don't like them it'll cost you another 1,000-1,500 to change.

If you're really on the fence or you want to spread it out over a few paychecks, pull the front driveshaft and have just the rear done. If you're happy do the front. If not, it's not as much to change the rear and match up the front. You can't use 4wd while you have different ratio's in it, but you'll at least know how it feels...

Also, here's the tracklok I was thinking of, http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/produ...train&man=DANA D44 Tracklok, (reverse rotation, IFS) $207.

You can get an empty track-lok case and swap your parts over (if you have a front LS) for like $110.

 

I do have LS in the Rear...not sure about the front. I wish I could just do the rear first and wait for the front. But my favorite steelhead hole, and duck club require 4wd later in the season. I don't want my buddy to have to pull me out with his GMC. That would be blasphemy!

If I don't have LS in the front, I'm not worried. That truck as is, has gotten me through hell and back from many trips through BC and into Alaska. I currently live in Redding, CA and will be moving back to Seattle shortly.

Lastly, so I will be looking at a $1200 investment at least, to swap to 4.10's? I do not plan on going higher than 33's. They work plenty well on a 2.5" lift. IMO anything greater than 35's is just an extension of you manhood. No need if you really use your truck. Just my $.02. Not that it doesn't look cool, but my truck is an everyday driver and gets used on tight little jeep trails. 31's have worked for me for a while, and anything over 33" will be overkill.

Thanks for your input f100. I think I will stick with the 4.10 idea.

Mike

 

Lock your hubs and leave it in 2wd. Lift one front tire and try and spin it. If it spins easy you've got an open. If it's hard to turn or won't turn you've got a LS in the front.

You've got an E-AOD which has a lower 1st so 4.10's will perform better then in my bronco from a dead start.

For $150 extra you can add a LS in the front. I left mine open as I never got stuck with the open rear and now its a LS. Well ok, I got stuck, but was able to get out without assistance, usually by backing up.

Probably a good idea to post another topic looking for a shop in Reading to setup gears. Or let your fingers do the walking and pull out the yellow pages. Start with speed shops and 4x4 shops. They'll be able to point you in the direction of a good shop.

Good luck. Oh yeah, you will feel the difference when you have it done, even with the 4.10's.

Big tires are good for mudding, but that's about it. I had 33's on my 86, but it's a street work truck so when I needed new tires I went with 31's. The 33's did look better though. I think 35's look good too, maybe 37's on a 250 or 350, but if you use your truck for work it gets to be a pain...