As you have helped with project already, I am trying to finish it up.

I have installed a Crimestopper RE-900VII Remote Start/Keyless Entry device. The remote start/turbo timer works perfectly, but I can't get the keyless entry to work.

Here is the scenario:

The system is set up for a "Negative Pulse" door lock system and wiremagic.com says that my door lock system is the same. So I hooked the two leads to the two recomended wires (Pink/Yellow, Pink/Green, in Passenger Kick Panel) which should operate the door locks for the all doors. This did not work.

There is a OEM disarm wire that it recommended that I hook up, though I was unable to finder the wire in the driverside kickpanel (Dark Green/Purple). I figured that I don't have this wire because I don't have the factory alarm. Could this be my problem, does anyone have a different color for this wire?

 

I thought our locks were Reverse polarity systems

12 + to lock
12 - to unlock

 

I am starting to feel the same way. I got a relay today and tried wiring it for positive and that blew a fuse.

Only problem is that the relays I bought don't have 87A's on them so I'll have to go exchange them.

I was reluctant to try this because I have to cut the wires for this method.

 

Yeah, i mentioned that in the last thread you started. But you need to research it, cuz I dont know for sure about the 3 different types of locks.

Mine is a 99, and 12v locks, -12v unlocks.

 

I just purchased the DVD on eBay, but I don't know if this will help!

 

I do have a TRMS Dmm and have been using it. You are also right about the three types of locks, Negative Pulse, Positive Pulse, and Reverse Polarity.

The hard part is determining which one it is. None of the the Ford tech's seem to have any idea, and none of the wiing diagrams indicate it either.

I am sure it is not Negative Pulse because it would have worked. I know that it is not Positive Pulse because I set up some relays and blew some fuses. The next step is to try Reverse Polarity but I am reluctant because I have to cut the wires.

 

have you tested the wire to see what the switch does? Your wire should either go to ground or pos.

 

There are two wires.

When unlocking one goes to 12v and the other .3v

When locking the other goes to 12v and the first to .3v

This would appear as though a positive 12v charge to one wire would activate it. You would think that this would be a positive pulse system, but when I expose one of the wires to 12v pulse it blows the fuse to the 12v power source.

I am currently on vacation in CA leaving tomorrow, I don't want to start cutting wires until I get home.

 

On my '01 I accessed the wires behind the driver's side kick panel. I was a little tight, but if you are patient you can find them. On my buddies '01 they were taped way too much so we fed a pull wire attatched to two wires from inside the door panel and fed it through the rubber raceway and pulled them up under the dash to the remote start unit. Behind the dash hook is a handy spot.
wires were: WITH FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY
these wires are ( + )
door lock - Pink/yellow tracer
door unlock - Pink/Light green tracer

wires for: WITHOUT FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY
these wires are reversed polarity (w/o keyless entry only)
Same location on driver's side
door lock - Pink/Black tracer
door unlock - Red/Orange tracer

There was a ton of incorrect literature when I did mine and a quick web search showed me that there still is.
The best place to find the proper wiring is at the12volt.com doing a forums search. You'll have to join the site but its free.

The problem with a lot of these trucks is Ford's use of different GEM's seemingly at random on some.

The only thing that I can't stress enough to you is: do not use any type of saddle splicer or such. I personally stripped a 1" piece from the factory wire and then used a pick to spread apart in an oval. I then stripped 1-1 1/2" of the RS wire and braided it in, soldered it and taped it with one piece of wire wrapping down and back. that way only one side of tape can unravel. Then use a mini zip tie and your good to go. You'll avoid the sticky mess of tape unravelling this way and never have to hunt the cheezy connector splice that fails. Takes some time, but 6 yrs on mine not one problem.
My work ethic is do it once and do it right.
There is nothing worse than trouble shooting electrical on these newer vehicles, especially at 12:00 AM in the middle of Jan-Feb.

Have a nice vacation!

Austin

 

I've got the factory keyless entry and had to install a diode in the new wire to keep the system from back feeding to the alarm controller. This is when the factory locks the doors shortly after you start going. No relays needed on mine.
Joe

 

What you described on the voltage indicates it is a reverse polarity. Pulse systems do just that, pulse, but your description indicates the voltage is reversing on the wires.

BTW, .3 is ground with a resistance drop across the wire. You are measuring from the switch point across the resistance of the wire to ground.

 

Thank you NeuralMonk, I was hoping some one would come along and set me straight. I appreciate it!

 

Finally got, you betch ya, it was operator error.

I was using the wrong pk/ye, pk/gr wires!!!

Thanks for all the help!