Yea I'm sorry I just didn't want to keep posting things for no reason so I was just waiting to see if anyone needed the info. The place I got them are a little more expensive than where rad1026 got his but it's a different style also these are a little bigger and round. The quality is excellent though.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...507-ND/2195521

They have all sorts of different temperature ranges but I wouldn't go much higher than this one because the stock thermo is set to go off at 99° but that's up to you.

 

Not sure how I missed this thread.

 

So what is the real prob with the heated seats? Is it just the wire being to small or is it the thermostat part. My driver seat stopped working a little bit ago

 

Well, I'm going to keep going with my troubleshooting just so the information is here for anyone else. I went through the pin test last night on my seat. Just to re-cap, I took out the pad and repaired the heating element wire and also replaced the thermal switch with a normally closed 40 degree Celsius 104 degree F switch.

The light on the seat switch was working before I started this process, but when I plugged the heater pad back in the light on the switch no longer came on. The pin test is very simple. If you don't have a factory manual for your vehicle, well, you should have one.
1. Check for voltage to the heated seat module key off, voltage is good. This is the 30 amp circuit that is hot all the time.
2. Check for voltage to the heated seat switch and heated seat module key on, voltage good to both pins.
3. Check heated seat module ground, resistance less then 5 ohms, yes.
4. Measure resistance between driver heated seat module and driver heated seat switch. Is resistance less then 5 ohms? Yes, I only got .5 ohms here.

Remedy is to install new heated seat switch. Hey, cool, no problem, simple fix.

So I take the heated seat switch off the passenger side so I can get the drivers side working and then I will pick up a new switch for the passenger side later. I plug the switch in to the drivers side and guess what, no light. So I take the original drivers side switch and plug it in on the passenger side and guess what, the light goes on and the seat heats up. So the pin test told me my drivers side switch is bad but it isn't, there is something else wrong. So now I need to figure out where my problem is. I know I will figure it out, but I'm not very good at this stuff so if any one has any suggestions I would appreciate the help.

 

according to my 2000 superduty wiring diagram, the temperature control is a thermistor not a bimetallic switch. this may be the reason your light won't lite. the controller is looking for a resistance value before it will turn the heating element on. thermistors have a varying resistance value depending on how warm they are.

DOE

 

After further review... I agree.

Sitting here thinking about it and not knowing what kind of Thermistor to buy in theory wouldn't removing the old damaged thermistor from the pad and connecting those wires together to complete the circuit and hence creating resistance needed then wiring the bi-metallic switch in to the heating coil circuit to regulate the temperature and turn the circuit off once the temp. is reached work?

 

Does anyone know which Thermistor I would need to buy to replace the one in my Heated Seat Element?

Jim

 

DISCLAIMER! I got this info from a Volkswagen forum. I am not sure whether the fords use an ntc or ptc thermistor.

I believe one of these would do the trick...

http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...T-ND&x=20&y=13

DOE

 

Dang, where where you guys last week. Yeah, my electronics component knowledge is not good. I am going to order a thermisor now and see if that does the job. I did discover this weekend that it is my pad that is causing the system to not function. I plugged my repaired pad from the drivers side in to the passenger side connector and did not get any power there, so I definitely nailed it down to the pad. Funny thing is though I get the exact same resistance in the heating element circuit on both the drivers side pad and the passenger side pad. When I measure the resistance on the thermistor circuit on the passenger side pad I get no resistance, it is an open circuit. So I cut a wire on the bimetalic switch that I installed on the drivers side to make it an open circuit and I still go no function with the repaired pad. So is the thermistor not working correctly on my passenger side and eventually it is going to allow the element to get too hot?

So give me a little knowledge. Since the passenger side pad works with a open thermistor circuit, why won't the drivers side pad work with and open circuit there? I just don't get it, what is the heater module looking for there?

And last question, my gosh double ott, how on earth did you find that thermistor in that site? There are so many different specs to pick from there is no way I would find anything.

 

okay, one more question. To Double Ott, why the 50K ohm thermistor and not the 2k one? Do you know what the stock resistance is supposed to be on that circuit?

 

Okay, I see how the thermisor works. High resistance when cold but as it warms up the resistance decreases and opens the circuit for current flow. So now my electronics experts, how do we know which thermistor to use? Which on is going to allow current to flow at the temperature we are looking for?

 

I'm just full of questions about this, sorry. I also noticed when I had the heated seat switch apart, there are actually two led lights in the switch. The yellow one that you see when the seat is turned on, but there is also a green light. Is that supposed to turn on with the vehicle lights so the little seat emblem on the switch illuminates at night?

 

Pin test A13 and A14 test circuit 1060 and 1061 for continuity. 1060 and 1061 are the BK/LB and BN/LB for the temperature sensor. The resistance should be less then 5 ohms between the temperature sensor and the connection at the heated seat module, and greater then 10,000 ohms from the temperature sensor to ground. This test is done on both wires. I don't understand how that works. Is that saying the resistance of the temp sensor should be greater then 10,000 ohms? Its measuring one side of the thermisor to ground and not across both leads of the thermistor, I don't get it.

 

those tests are only testing the wire harness. the temp sensor test is A12. the thermistor works between 50 and 300,000 ohms. so depending on how warm your thermistor is at the time of testing, if it is good, it will fall in that range somewhere.

DOE

 

google is your friend. here is a little light reading...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor
DOE