mini starters
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From: nevada
mini starters
Received my new mini starter in the mail today, and just wanted to make sure on the wiring. It has its own solenoid, so I'm thinking to pull 12V battery cable from switched side of orig solenoid, and running it directly to 12v + post of battery. then adding wire from "S" post on old solenoid to sol hookup on starter. A friend told me I could also leave everything "as is" and just hook a jumper wire between both posts on new starter. I guess this would work, but why use both solenoids to spin it? We'll see if the headers will fry this starter, as i've been thru a few of them. But I guess 3 or 4 yrs on a rebuilt starter from P*P Boys or Auto Junk is all you could expect.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
Usually the mini starters can handle the heat better than the factory ones, but if you've been having heat issues, I would run a heat shield with it too.
I wouldn't jumper the solenoid, the starter won't engage the flywheel that way. Attach a small jumper wire from the s terminal on the starter's solenoid to the main battery post on the starter's solenoid. Leave the Ford part of the system intact, just run the output from the truck's solenoid to the battery post on the starter's solenoid, and you'll be good to go.
I wouldn't jumper the solenoid, the starter won't engage the flywheel that way. Attach a small jumper wire from the s terminal on the starter's solenoid to the main battery post on the starter's solenoid. Leave the Ford part of the system intact, just run the output from the truck's solenoid to the battery post on the starter's solenoid, and you'll be good to go.
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From: nevada
when in doubt...
Thanks Ford Six, just found the instruction sheet buried in the packing. It states i can jump the solenoid post on the starter with the battery post on the starter, and leaving all existing wiring intact. Essentially the battery cable running to the starter from the relay will also provide juice to the starter solenoid at the same time that you turn the key. Or second option is to take battery cable off of starter side of relay, and run the new cable from + side of battery post to battery connect on starter. Then run new wire connected to existing relay starter wire (12ga) to solenoid post on starter. Basically, this way, you eliminate using the existing relay connection to the starter. I'm sure both of these ways would work, but I'm still thinking about which one to do. Leaning toward option 2, just because it would be less connections for the juice to flow thru. Also if the starter quits working, I know it wouldnt be the relay, because it is not used in the battery/starter scheme.
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From: Mesquite, Texas
BaitMaster, On my old engine, a 352 with Headman Painted headers we lost the original oem starter, then another, then a Powermaster Xs torque starter and then a Jegs Prostart'r. We then put the new 390 in and I put a Napa Gold Hi torque supposedly high heat resistant oem type starter on and We put Hooker ceramic comp headers on it to keep the heat down and two heat shields. It lasted about 3 months. We then put a Powermaster Ultra Torque starter on it. It lasted about 4.5 months. The longest yet. This time I purchased a Tilton and while talking to a Tilton tech. on this they told me that regular painted headers let 1700 degrees of heat out on to the starter. They also told me that the ceramic headers let 1200 degrees of heat out on to the starter. They told me to purchase a header wrap kit and a starter wrap and with the Tilton it should be fine. We will have it installed this weekend and we will see if this works. If it goes out I will purchase a set of the FPA shorty 390 headers and go from there. I would recommend to wrap your headers and starter plus put a heat shield on it. Good luck
Fleet Owner
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Charles, I do believe that headers are starter killers, I can testify. I also think you might need to look at your wiring though, you have an unusual number of dead starters, and might have some issues else where. IMHO
John
John
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From: Mesquite, Texas
John, you are correct on all counts. Tilton said that the standard #4 cables are not even enough for a stock oem type starter. I had a set of 1/0 cables made up at my local welding supply store. My stock solonoid is supposed to be good for 500 amps so I should be good to go. I already have 3 ground cables so the electrical will now be up to Tiltons specs. The main cause imo is this summers 105+ temps here in Texas and a 16 yo running all over town all day long in it. I dont think the 390 was designed for 40-50 starts a day in this heat with headers.
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From: Westminster, Colorado
Even wioth a heat sheild (racing blanket) on my starters, they only last about 12 to 16 months.....(390 w/headers, unwrapped, rusty! lol) I would like to replace the headers and have also been told to wrap them. Also check your intake manifold and headcovers for oil leaks....those can fill the starter up and crap it out as well.
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So are the shorty headers better? Is there a brand that works well. In addition to the heat problem, it is impossible to get to the bottom, back header bolt to get it tigh enough.
Peter
Peter
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My headers run fairly close to the starter but running around it central texas heat has not been a problem with me..my starter is prob. 8-10 years old...when i moved the starter to the back i installled welding cable all around..I have found that a piece of old asbestos shingle siding works great as a heat shield...(dont breath its dust)..good luck bill
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