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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 06:48 PM
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Help with mini-starter install

Ok, Im installing this:

Auto Trans Mini Starter, SALE!!!

On my 460. This starter has a solenoid on it. Do I need to bypass it since I have a solenoid on the inner fender, but will the starter still engage? Or do I just wire to the empty terminal? There is also a ground wire from the solenoid that isnt seen in the photo.

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 07:30 PM
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This type of starter typically requires that you retain the original starter solenoid on the fender, so you'll have 2 solenoids. You have to run a hot-at-all-times starter cable from the battery-side of the solenoid down to the new starter. The starter-side of your old solenoid then goes to the solenoid on the new starter. As such, the fender-mounted solenoid is used to engage the solenoid on the new starter. It should have come with a wiring diagram to explain all this.

You have to be very, very careful with this type of setup because you're running a heavy-gauge hot-at-all-times cable down to the starter, which is typically near the exhaust. Be very, very careful with how you route all the wiring, and keep everything tucked away properly. You absolutely cannot let the new starter cable get close to anything hot.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 09:42 PM
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It bugged me that there were no instructions.

What gauge wire should the wire that will remain hot be? I think I can tuck it well away from my headers. Just out of curiousity, what would be the consequence if a wire were to melt in the way you described?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 09:46 PM
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The hot-at-all-times cable that goes down to the mini-starter should be a starter cable, as it will carry all of the current as the starter turns the engine.

If this cable melts to the header, you will essentially dump hundreds of amps straight to ground. This is because car batteries have almost no internal resistance. If this happens, a fire can start, or the battery can explode.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by fmc400
The hot-at-all-times cable that goes down to the mini-starter should be a starter cable, as it will carry all of the current as the starter turns the engine.

If this cable melts to the header, you will essentially dump hundreds of amps straight to ground. This is because car batteries have almost no internal resistance. If this happens, a fire can start, or the battery can explode.
Sounds like great fun. I will be carefull. Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 06:40 PM
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Sorry I have one more question.

I have a hard time with electrical stuff.

There is a ground wire on this new starter. Do I need to ground it to the block? I thought so at first, but it occured to me that the old solenoid is already grounded through the ignition terminal/wire. So I was thinking it probably needs to go to the ignition terminal as well.

Like I said, wiring gets me thinking in circles, and I REALLY cant afford to burn something up. So all help is appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 06:34 AM
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Can you post a picture of yours, and the wire you're seeing? There shouldn't be a ground wire. Both the starter-mounted solenoid, as well as the starter itself, ground through the bellhousing just like the original starter. The only connections to the mini-starter should be the fender-solenoid-activated trigger signal, and the hot-at-all-times heavy-gauge starter cable.

Check out the picture on page 3 of the following link: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/pdf...0A75B50B75.pdf

As a very last safety measure, you could also give JBG a call and ask if there should be instructions - just to make sure there's nothing different. But the starter shown in the picture looks like a very common PMGR mini-starter that's branded by various manufacturers.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 08:44 AM
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Yes, that's how it's supposed to be wired. (in the PDF) I jumped the terminals when I first put one in and it ran on after the key was released. You need to run the separate wire. It's easy.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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Had the same issue with the same starter from the Bronco Graveyard. Here is a link to specific directions step by step directions to wire the new starter.

High Torque Mini Starter Installation. PMGR Starter. - FordMuscle
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 09:31 AM
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Thanks guys. I actually found that link 78Ranger provided last night and got it going. The third terminal was just for the wire going into the starter. Yes it was easy once I knew what I was doing. I carefully zip-tied the wires so there shouldnt be any issues with contact with the headers.

BTW, this may be the best $80 I have spent on my truck. It starts effortlessly, like a new car. Just a blip of the key. Two successful hot starts so far without a hitch too. I had to plan my trips around my heat soak issue before.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 10:28 AM
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Nice to know it's working good so far.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by pat67shorty
Yes, that's how it's supposed to be wired. (in the PDF) I jumped the terminals when I first put one in and it ran on after the key was released. You need to run the separate wire. It's easy.
Yep - a lot of people try that actually, but the back-EMF from the starter slowing down after you release the key is enough to re-engage the starter-mounted solenoid and cause the problem you saw.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 12:06 PM
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Thunderbird7480, I just did the same starter upgrade as you did. I replaced all cables to starter and ground to the block, I have the new starter wrapped in heat shield material, but still am turning over slowly when the engine is hot. Are you seeing the same thing...or has the issue gone away completely. The engine has started every time so far, but it still doesn't seem right. I have a 400 small block and have long tube headers, I am thinking about wrapping the headers, but if anyone else has any ideas i would love to hear them.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 78Ranger400
Thunderbird7480, I just did the same starter upgrade as you did. I replaced all cables to starter and ground to the block, I have the new starter wrapped in heat shield material, but still am turning over slowly when the engine is hot. Are you seeing the same thing...or has the issue gone away completely. The engine has started every time so far, but it still doesn't seem right. I have a 400 small block and have long tube headers, I am thinking about wrapping the headers, but if anyone else has any ideas i would love to hear them.
Its been awesome. The heat doesnt seem to affect it at all.

So you say you replaced all the cables? That is one place to suspect high resistance, but as long as you got the right gauge wire and have a good ground you should be fine.

The next thing I would suspect is engine timing. Have you checked it? Sometimes if you are too far advanced hot starts can be problematic since the starter is working against the spark timing.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 02:26 PM
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Thats possible since I am setting it by ear...the truck is missing the timing pointer. I will try and back it off a little and see if that helps. Do you have any idea how far advanced it would have to be to have the problem? Are we talking a small change, or does it have to be way off...like a quarter turn on the Distributor. Thanks for your help.
 
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