So, I have a 53 flathead converted to 12v neg ground. I have been trying to getting started and now it is giving me trouble. It has been 12v for a while so it is not a new conversion.

Replaced parts: solenoid, cap, rotor, condenser, spark plug wires, spark plugs, coil, battery terminals and wires on both pos and neg. all ground connections have been wire wheeled and cleaned for good contact.

The starter was taken to a specialist and load tested fine. It was cranking without problems, but not starting, until now the starter will not turn over. I have isolated each section on the system and everything tests out fine with good grounds.

Battery to solenoid is fine. Solenoid functions fine. Starter functions fine off the truck. Power to the cab is fine. Starter switch is fine. As soon as I connect the starter to the solenoid and try and turn it over I get a clicking/buzzing from the solenoid and nothing from the starter. If I disconnect the cable from the solenoid to the starter everything else works fine. I have even replaced the solenoid. I get 12v from the post going to the starter when the cable is disconnected and the solenoid works just fine.

Any ideas?

 

Sand off the paint on the surface the starter mounts to. Where is the battery (-) cable connected, the engine or the frame? You're not getting ground it seems. Ground should be on the engine, with straps from there to the frame and cab.

Also, just for grins, CAREFULLY take an old pair of pliers and use the handles to jumper from the battery connection to the starter connection (big cables). Just do it for a second or two. Solenoids can appear to be right, but have virtually zero current-carrying capacity.

 

Ground goes from battery to frame. Then there is a ground from the bell housing bolt to the frame.

I tried the pliers across the solenoid and still nothing

 

Unless the strap from the frame to the engine is #2 gauge, it isn't going to get enough juice to turn the starter. Move the ground cable from the battery to either a bellhousing bolt (with clean surface) or a bolt on the engine itself.

 

I appreciate he help. I will try all this and see what happens. I have never had this much trouble with a car in my life. When you replace everything and it still doesn't work I just get stumped. Do you know if these mini torque starters are good to use with these engines? Or is it best to keep with these original style ones?

 

I have a gear-reduction starter on mine, since I converted to 12v/alternator it is the best thing I did. The stock starter hits the rear of the flywheel, and can get hung up. The bendix is prone to failure. It is 1930's technology. The mini's hit the front, can't hang up, and use probably half as much current. If you have $200 laying around, well worth it.

 

Do you know of a good guide or website that you can direct me to so as to better understand how the generator/charging system works? Once I get this baby started, I am sure that will need some work. Along with re wiring the whole truck.

 

Sounds like a grounding issue occasionally you will find corrosion build up inside a terminal end is preventing adequate contact (to much resistance) in the cable .


Buy the starter to have as a spare (all starters die eventually)

 

Verify that the battery voltage is holding up under the load.
Then, have an assistant try the starter switch while you use a volt meter to measure voltage drop from battery to starter on the ground side and then on the hot side. Look for excessive drop as a sign of a bad connection.

 

Do you get any noise from the starter when you try to start the truck when everything is hooked up? Any noice that indicates the starter is engaging but just stops? Has the starter itself been rebuilt? Was this an all of a sudden problem or did you have the problem when the truck was warm? One of the little things that Ford starters are know for is worn cap bushings. If the cap bushing is worn it will allow the amature to come in contact with the fields grounding it out. Usually if this is the problem it will start out to occur when the truck is hot because the parts of the starter expand, closing the gap between the parts. If not repaired eventually the starter will not work at all.

Just another thing to think about.