How to replace shocks....
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Junior User
Joined: May 2006
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How to replace shocks....
I am not a mechanic, but I would like to replace my shocks without paying someone else to do it. I have a 2000 4WD X. The front shocks look very simple. My question is on the rear shocks I only see 2 screws that appear to be holding a plate in place. What is the process for replacing those rear shocks? I have not had much luck searching the archieves. Thanks.
New User
Joined: Sep 2006
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Just did all 4 of mine. Put on Bilsteins. Jacked it up a little by the trailer hitch to get just a little more room for the rears. Really simple. Just remove the 2 top bolts and the bottom. You will need about 18 inch extension to get at top bolts. Attached both at the top first. Bilsteins come with straps holding schock form expanding. Lower (or raise) jack until you can slip in bottom of shock. (grease the bottom bolt to help it slip in) after install just cut the straps. Less than 20 minutes to do the rear.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
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From: Hartford, WI
Those 2 bolts that screw into a "nut" that attach the shock to the top of the frame are sometimes a problem. When you remove it, the "nut" can break. I would get 4 of those before you start. They are pretty cheap and might as well replace them. Ask me how I know.
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Detailed Shock Install Procedure
Easy install provided you make use a few tricks here. About 1.5 hour install time. Get your X on a level street or garage floor to start with and first spray penetrating oil on the bolts on both ends for all four existing shocks.
<O
</OFront shocks: Don’t jack up the X. Just turn the front wheels and work around and over as there’s plenty of room. Remove bottom bolt first and use ratchet on the smaller bolt head (I believe it’s a 19/32 socket) while using a large enough crescent wrench to hold the large nut. Don’t turn the large nut as it’s got a welded washer attached to it that is used to keep the nut from rotating. Then, simply remove the nut on the top of the shock and I believe we had to use a number 15 metric socket as no other socket seemed to fit it well. Gently push up the cowling just above the upper shock mount so you can easily wrestle out the shock. Here’s a key helpful tip I developed if your shocks did not come pre-compressed from the factory with plastic banding. Put a piece of 3 foot kite string on the ground and place one end of the shock on the string. Compress the shock all the way down toward the ground using your knee until it won’t compress anymore. Bring the string up and tie it off on the other end where your knee is and release your knee and the shock will now be compressed and held by the string. Connect the base of the shock to the bottom mount and tighten up the bolt and nut (again tighten the small bolt head and use a crescent on the large welded nut to keep it from rotating). Orient the upper shock hole so that aligns just below the upper bolt that sticks out toward you on the upper mount. Cut the kite string (or plastic banding if equipped) and as the shock slowly rises push it onto the upper bolt. Attach the nut and tighten up both the upper and lower nuts to the level (force) that you had when you removed them originally. Repeat the same procedure for the other front shock.
<O</ORear shocks: On level ground, block front tires, jack up entire rear, and place two heavy duty jack stands under the rear axle nearest the rear tires (I used jack stands that are rated at 4000 lb each) so that you have enough room to safely work under the X. Remove the two bolts holding the upper shock mount (I believe these are 3/8 inch socket sized). Put on glasses as some loose dirt will likely fall in your eyes otherwise. You’ll need a ratchet with at least 18 inches of extended length to reach these upper bolts and use a floor lamp to light up the locations to easily see them. Then ratchet off the bottom bolt and nut and remove the shock. Attach the top mounts bolts first to the tightness you originally encountered when removing them. If your purchased shocks did not come compressed with plastic banding, you’ll have to compress the shock manually to connect it back up into the lower mount assembly using either muscle force, the string option mentioned above, or even the floor jack, and secure the lower end of the shock with the original bolt. Tighten up the bottom bolt to the strength you originally encountered. Remove jack stands and you’re done!
CUINAK
<O
</OFront shocks: Don’t jack up the X. Just turn the front wheels and work around and over as there’s plenty of room. Remove bottom bolt first and use ratchet on the smaller bolt head (I believe it’s a 19/32 socket) while using a large enough crescent wrench to hold the large nut. Don’t turn the large nut as it’s got a welded washer attached to it that is used to keep the nut from rotating. Then, simply remove the nut on the top of the shock and I believe we had to use a number 15 metric socket as no other socket seemed to fit it well. Gently push up the cowling just above the upper shock mount so you can easily wrestle out the shock. Here’s a key helpful tip I developed if your shocks did not come pre-compressed from the factory with plastic banding. Put a piece of 3 foot kite string on the ground and place one end of the shock on the string. Compress the shock all the way down toward the ground using your knee until it won’t compress anymore. Bring the string up and tie it off on the other end where your knee is and release your knee and the shock will now be compressed and held by the string. Connect the base of the shock to the bottom mount and tighten up the bolt and nut (again tighten the small bolt head and use a crescent on the large welded nut to keep it from rotating). Orient the upper shock hole so that aligns just below the upper bolt that sticks out toward you on the upper mount. Cut the kite string (or plastic banding if equipped) and as the shock slowly rises push it onto the upper bolt. Attach the nut and tighten up both the upper and lower nuts to the level (force) that you had when you removed them originally. Repeat the same procedure for the other front shock.<O
</ORear shocks: On level ground, block front tires, jack up entire rear, and place two heavy duty jack stands under the rear axle nearest the rear tires (I used jack stands that are rated at 4000 lb each) so that you have enough room to safely work under the X. Remove the two bolts holding the upper shock mount (I believe these are 3/8 inch socket sized). Put on glasses as some loose dirt will likely fall in your eyes otherwise. You’ll need a ratchet with at least 18 inches of extended length to reach these upper bolts and use a floor lamp to light up the locations to easily see them. Then ratchet off the bottom bolt and nut and remove the shock. Attach the top mounts bolts first to the tightness you originally encountered when removing them. If your purchased shocks did not come compressed with plastic banding, you’ll have to compress the shock manually to connect it back up into the lower mount assembly using either muscle force, the string option mentioned above, or even the floor jack, and secure the lower end of the shock with the original bolt. Tighten up the bottom bolt to the strength you originally encountered. Remove jack stands and you’re done!CUINAK
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Joined: Mar 2006
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Thanks all for the info; my Bilsteins came in today from Discount Power Parts and it's gonna come in handy!
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From: Wash DC/ Westminster, MD
Easy install provided you make use a few tricks here. About 1.5 hour install time. Get your X on a level street or garage floor to start with and first spray penetrating oil on the bolts on both ends for all four existing shocks.
<O</OFront shocks: Don’t jack up the X. Just turn the front wheels and work around and over as there’s plenty of room. Remove bottom bolt first and use ratchet on the smaller bolt head (I believe it’s a 19/32 socket) while using a large enough crescent wrench to hold the large nut. Don’t turn the large nut as it’s got a welded washer attached to it that is used to keep the nut from rotating. Then, simply remove the nut on the top of the shock and I believe we had to use a number 15 metric socket as no other socket seemed to fit it well. Gently push up the cowling just above the upper shock mount so you can easily wrestle out the shock. Here’s a key helpful tip I developed if your shocks did not come pre-compressed from the factory with plastic banding. Put a piece of 3 foot kite string on the ground and place one end of the shock on the string. Compress the shock all the way down toward the ground using your knee until it won’t compress anymore. Bring the string up and tie it off on the other end where your knee is and release your knee and the shock will now be compressed and held by the string. Connect the base of the shock to the bottom mount and tighten up the bolt and nut (again tighten the small bolt head and use a crescent on the large welded nut to keep it from rotating). Orient the upper shock hole so that aligns just below the upper bolt that sticks out toward you on the upper mount. Cut the kite string (or plastic banding if equipped) and as the shock slowly rises push it onto the upper bolt. Attach the nut and tighten up both the upper and lower nuts to the level (force) that you had when you removed them originally. Repeat the same procedure for the other front shock.
<O</ORear shocks: On level ground, block front tires, jack up entire rear, and place two heavy duty jack stands under the rear axle nearest the rear tires (I used jack stands that are rated at 4000 lb each) so that you have enough room to safely work under the X. Remove the two bolts holding the upper shock mount (I believe these are 3/8 inch socket sized). Put on glasses as some loose dirt will likely fall in your eyes otherwise. You’ll need a ratchet with at least 18 inches of extended length to reach these upper bolts and use a floor lamp to light up the locations to easily see them. Then ratchet off the bottom bolt and nut and remove the shock. Attach the top mounts bolts first to the tightness you originally encountered when removing them. If your purchased shocks did not come compressed with plastic banding, you’ll have to compress the shock manually to connect it back up into the lower mount assembly using either muscle force, the string option mentioned above, or even the floor jack, and secure the lower end of the shock with the original bolt. Tighten up the bottom bolt to the strength you originally encountered. Remove jack stands and you’re done!
CUINAK
<O
</OFront shocks: Don’t jack up the X. Just turn the front wheels and work around and over as there’s plenty of room. Remove bottom bolt first and use ratchet on the smaller bolt head (I believe it’s a 19/32 socket) while using a large enough crescent wrench to hold the large nut. Don’t turn the large nut as it’s got a welded washer attached to it that is used to keep the nut from rotating. Then, simply remove the nut on the top of the shock and I believe we had to use a number 15 metric socket as no other socket seemed to fit it well. Gently push up the cowling just above the upper shock mount so you can easily wrestle out the shock. Here’s a key helpful tip I developed if your shocks did not come pre-compressed from the factory with plastic banding. Put a piece of 3 foot kite string on the ground and place one end of the shock on the string. Compress the shock all the way down toward the ground using your knee until it won’t compress anymore. Bring the string up and tie it off on the other end where your knee is and release your knee and the shock will now be compressed and held by the string. Connect the base of the shock to the bottom mount and tighten up the bolt and nut (again tighten the small bolt head and use a crescent on the large welded nut to keep it from rotating). Orient the upper shock hole so that aligns just below the upper bolt that sticks out toward you on the upper mount. Cut the kite string (or plastic banding if equipped) and as the shock slowly rises push it onto the upper bolt. Attach the nut and tighten up both the upper and lower nuts to the level (force) that you had when you removed them originally. Repeat the same procedure for the other front shock.<O
</ORear shocks: On level ground, block front tires, jack up entire rear, and place two heavy duty jack stands under the rear axle nearest the rear tires (I used jack stands that are rated at 4000 lb each) so that you have enough room to safely work under the X. Remove the two bolts holding the upper shock mount (I believe these are 3/8 inch socket sized). Put on glasses as some loose dirt will likely fall in your eyes otherwise. You’ll need a ratchet with at least 18 inches of extended length to reach these upper bolts and use a floor lamp to light up the locations to easily see them. Then ratchet off the bottom bolt and nut and remove the shock. Attach the top mounts bolts first to the tightness you originally encountered when removing them. If your purchased shocks did not come compressed with plastic banding, you’ll have to compress the shock manually to connect it back up into the lower mount assembly using either muscle force, the string option mentioned above, or even the floor jack, and secure the lower end of the shock with the original bolt. Tighten up the bottom bolt to the strength you originally encountered. Remove jack stands and you’re done!CUINAK
You made it sound so easy.. Thanks for the writeup!
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