Replacing shocks on a 93 F-150 2WD
#1
Replacing shocks on a 93 F-150 2WD
OK, I have a set of Monroe Sensa-Tracs that I am ready to put on my truck. The installation seems fairly straightforward, but I do have a couple of questions.
Front shocks: Is there a way to keep the shock shaft from turning when removing the old and installing the new shocks?
Rear shocks: I can see the bolt head of the top of the rear shocks, but the bolt looks like it goes into the frame. Is there a nut inside the frame? How do I get access to it, or is the nut welded to the frame?
Front shocks: Is there a way to keep the shock shaft from turning when removing the old and installing the new shocks?
Rear shocks: I can see the bolt head of the top of the rear shocks, but the bolt looks like it goes into the frame. Is there a nut inside the frame? How do I get access to it, or is the nut welded to the frame?
#2
For the fronts, there should be some feature built into the shock that you can stick a wrench on to keep it from turning. If they are the original shocks, I'm pretty sure it's a 'nut' built in on the section of the shock shaft that sits just below the upper perch. Also, if the shocks are original, you'll have to cut out the top bushing to replace it with the ones that came with the new shock (or just re-use it). No big deal, though. A couple seconds with a razor blade or some big wire cutters takes care of them.
For the rear, the 'bolt' you describe is a threaded stud attached to the frame. All you do is remove the nut from the stud, then slip the shock off it.
Another tip: if you turn the front wheel to full lock, you can do the job without removing the tire. However, you will probably need a jack to manipulate the frame/suspension a bit to get the eye hole lined up. A long screwdriver also comes in handy for this. Stick it through the hole and work the shock into alignment. Between it and the jack, you should be able to line it up no problem.
Mike
For the rear, the 'bolt' you describe is a threaded stud attached to the frame. All you do is remove the nut from the stud, then slip the shock off it.
Another tip: if you turn the front wheel to full lock, you can do the job without removing the tire. However, you will probably need a jack to manipulate the frame/suspension a bit to get the eye hole lined up. A long screwdriver also comes in handy for this. Stick it through the hole and work the shock into alignment. Between it and the jack, you should be able to line it up no problem.
Mike
#3
Like mentioned, the front shock usually has a small flat on the top of the threads to allow getting ahold of it. If they are rusty(probably), then I've just gotten a good set of Visegrips on the part under lower rubber bushing and get a good grip. Much better leverage available and won't hurt anything.
Only hard part on rears is the drivers side, since the tank is kinda in the way. Had to use a long extension on my impact to get to top nut easily. Zip zip and they came right off. It's a mounted stud, so nothing else to hold on to.
Only hard part on rears is the drivers side, since the tank is kinda in the way. Had to use a long extension on my impact to get to top nut easily. Zip zip and they came right off. It's a mounted stud, so nothing else to hold on to.
#4
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