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Lower cab mount problem

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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 08:42 PM
  #1  
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From: Wheeling WV
Lower cab mount problem

I have a 77 F100 stepside 2 wheel drive that my son and I are rebuilding. It has been a long process as we have never attempted a project this size. Today we removed all the cab mounts but the front lower cab mounts were rusted underneath the rubber mounts. The rust enlarged the hole to the point the rubber mounts can almost be pulled through. I would like to drill out the rivets and bolt in new mounts. I have looked all of the sponsor's site with no luck. (Blue Oval, Bronco Graveyard, LMC, NPD, Dennis Carpenter) Is my only choice to have to have the originals repaired? Only the top is bad. Thank you for any help you may be able to give us. This site has been a big help to us. Maybe some day we can return the favor.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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mark a.
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As far as I know nobody reproduces them.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 12:43 AM
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From: Warrenton, VA
Get ya a nice mig welder, and some sheet metal roughly the same thickness and make your own. I've have to make floor pans for other vehicles. So long as you have a welder, a way to cut and grind. You can do anything you need.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 02:50 AM
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From: Kasson, Minnesota
Thumbs up

I looked all over too. Its one of those parts that were not reproduced because they were never intended to be replaced. you could look at a salvage truck, but you can't tell if a mount is rusted until you get the cab off and then the rubber bushing.I had the same problem with the truck i am restoring. I took 1/8 inch steel plate, and used a drill press, hole saw and made my own. Then welded the plate on top of the mount. Turned out pretty good. I believe I used an 1 and 3/4 hole saw for the mounting hole. I have a highboy chassis, so I really had no choice but to repair those. I do have some pictures in my gallery if you want to look at. It took some time to cut out the plates. Have to move real slow and use some cutting oil. You can use a torch also, but it's hard to have nice exact holes. Hope this helps.
 

Last edited by bucks77ford; Jun 18, 2006 at 03:00 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 05:54 AM
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I am in the middle of doing this exact thing on my 78 F250. The mounting points are 9 gage steel. I don't have the measurements for hole size off hand but could get them if you need. I removed the mounts from the frame dipped them to remove all rust. I had a couple of cracks in the rear cab mount/frame brace to weld up as well. Besides this way I can get all the rust off of the parts and the frame, seal and paint before I put it back together.

Good luck with your project
Buck
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 01:13 PM
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From: Wheeling WV
Thanks for the help and the pictures. I will get busy and gather the materials. What grade of bolt did you use to replace the rivets?
 
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 05:04 PM
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From: Ilion Herkimer
try mtsalvage.com . thats where i got mine. used but rustfree......i also got my rear upper shock mounts and rear cab support from mike...i have pics in gallery
 
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 07:08 PM
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From: West Virginia
Originally Posted by f100tk77
What grade of bolt did you use to replace the rivets?
I plan on using grade 8 bolts and nuts. After everything is in and tight I plan on spot welding the nut and bolt together. That way I know it will never back off.

Buck
 
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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Your talking about the cab mount brackets right? if so i bought some from here check it out http://www.73-79fordtrucks.com/framedept.html
good luck
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 09:05 AM
  #10  
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I used grade 8 bolts. I drilled holes out to 1/2 inch and then used grade 8 1/2 x 1 1/2 frame bolts with lock nuts. It took me about 2 hours to repair all four of my brackets.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 05:47 PM
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From: Ilion Herkimer
i paid 100 bucks for the two front frame perches and the rear cab support including shipping
 
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 02:06 PM
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mounts

I ended up making mine, just make them heavy enough.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 08:00 PM
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From: Wheeling WV
Thanks Poppe. I placed my order today. They rebuild the original mounts. Also thanks to Buck for his pictures and also the bolt info. 73-79 Ford Trucks suggested that I torch the head off of the rivit and then use ahammer and a punch to remover the rivit instead of drilling. After this is corrected, then off to the paint shop! Thanks for the help.

Todd
 
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