Any of you here have good/bad experiences with repair panels? My 72 needs cab floor repair, and front cab mounts. Are the panels from US body any good? I am waiting for my Dennis Carpenter catatlog, in the mean time, I would like your input on who has the best panels. - Ed

 

I just finished the floors and cab mounts on my '75. I think they are the same as your '72. I ordered mine online. I checked out a couple places including Dennis Carpenter. His were around 80 bucks apiece for the cab mounts. But they are made just like the originals. I hummed and hawed and ended up getting the cheaper cab mounts. They are the imported ones that are welded on. They were around 30 bucks apiece. And so far I am very happy with them. The prices on the cab floor repair panels are about the same everywhere. I think the floors were about 40 bucks apiece.
The only thing I don't like about the imported mounts that I got were they looked a but thin. But after I welded them to the new floorboards they really felt surprisingly solid.
The original mounts were two pieces. One piece was welded to the floor and the other was welded to the firewall. They overlapped where the bolt and bushing came through. This is what DC has. I didn't like the original design because it is such a dirt/water and eventually rust trap. The imported ones are one stamped piece of steel. After welding them to the floor pans I sealed them around the edges. This keeps water and debris out. I also sealed the access hole for the cab bolt to keep moisture and dirt out. I left the lip at the rear "open" (unsealed) to let any water thet does get in have a place to drain out.
They seem to be holding up fine. The floorboards dropped right in and fit great. I had to cut holes on the drivers side for the e-brake cable and clutch rod. Some minor trimming/fitting here and there. Undercoating here and there. Cab is now rock solid. I also replaced all the bushings and hardware all the way around. Basically if you want the original mount go with Dennis Carpenter. If you aren't concerned with originality and want something cheaper go with the welded on imports. I would stay away from the bolt-on cab mounts that look like a box. It looks like a rust trap to me.

 

I am looking for new dually fenders for my '70 f350 - anyone know a good place for them?

 

Thanks, LTD, I really appreciate your response. I was worried about the imported pieces being thin. I had a pair years ago that came with a truck I bought. I did not use them. I cut out some solid originals and used them instead. The truck I am doing now is really very nice, I just towed it here to northern Michigan from Chicago, it was in California until 99. The front floors and mounts are the only rust. You may have seen it on ebay a couple weeks ago. It is blue. Has the tool box in the rh bedside. I can hardly wait to see the D.C. catalog. - Ed

 

Hi 71LTD390,

How difficult is it to replace the floor? Any tips or instructions? I have recently purchased a nice '68 F250 Camper Special that has a rusted out floor on the passenger side (driver's side is fine). The rear slider was leaking for God knows how long and the owner(s) never bothered to check under the rubber floor mat for trapped water.

Thanks,

Will
Sacramento CA area
68 F250 Camper Special Lunar Green/Wimbelton White
72 F250 Camper Special Med Green Metallic (extraordinary survivor)
More when I find them ;-)

 

It wasn't very difficult. I removed the seat and entire floor mat to have working room. To cut out the old floor I used an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. I left enough metal to lap under my new floor. I welded the cab mounts to the floor pan before I installed the floorpan. Then dropped them in as an assembly. It's easier to weld the cab mount to the floorpan when it's out of the truck instead of welding upside down and getting around the frame. When this is done you have to be careful to line everything up so the bolt hole will line up right. To line it up I bolted the cab mount to the frame and then set my trimmed floor pan in place. Then crawled under the truck and marked the proper position. Took them both back out and tacked them with the welder. Then before doing my final weld I tried them for fit again to be sure. The most time will be spent trimming and fitting. The floorpans come with extra around the edges and will need to be trimmed. Between the cut-off wheel and snips this is pretty easy. The passenger side is by far easier. You don't have to deal with the pedals (I had to remove the accelerator pedal-the clutch and brake were always in the way), cut a hole for the clutch rod, correctly place the dimmer switch, etc. I bought a mig welder when I started my first project (71 LTD). And the thing has paid for itself three or four times if i had to pay a bodyshop. I wouldn't trade it for anything. Easy to learn, also. After all is in place I payed particular attention to sealing everything. I use automotive seam sealer. Followed by undercoating. Also put sound deadener pads in the floor and some heat shield insulation. Truck is much quieter.
My rear window gasket was leaking. The truck was "put out to pasture" in '96 and was parked on a downhill slope so all the water ended up under the floor mat. I also made sure I wasn't getting any other water leaks before I put my new mat in. I also found that the fresh air inlets were leaking due to leaves/pine needles built up in the kick panel vent area. I got a Wal-Mart bag full of crud out of these areas. The only way to get to this area is by removing the fresh air vents/block off plates. I re-sealed the block off plate on the drivers side and the A/C inlet on the passenger side.
Just take your time. Don't trim too much. And don't rush. It'll come out fine. The floor will be good as new. Sorry to have been long-winded but I hope this helps someone out.

 

71ltd390... thanks for the info. Good stuff.