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The fact that they are almost falling off is a pretty sure sign that I should replace them, so I got a few questions.
1. Is there a certain torque spec for reinstallation?
2. Do you need a wheel alignment afterwards?(if so is there anyway to get around it.)
Im no high end auto mechanic more of a "do it yer self er" but I can do most of my own work. I was thinking that I can just screw them on as far as the old ones and it would be fine. Will that work?
1. tie rod nut=70 lbs ft max
2. an alignment will pay for itself in far less tire wear
handling is more stable and steering is more accurate with a professional alignment
screwing in the new tie rods to same length as old tie rods will get you to the alignment shop
1. tie rod nut=70 lbs ft max
2. an alignment will pay for itself in far less tire wear
handling is more stable and steering is more accurate with a professional alignment
screwing in the new tie rods to same length as old tie rods will get you to the alignment shop
The reason is basically if the tie rods are in bad shape your probably already out of alignment and adjusting the new ones that way will only make it worse.
I like to do as much work as possible myself too but I only had to kill 1 pair of tires to learn the hard and expensive way why alignments are so important.
The cost of an alignment is usually inexpensive when compared to the cost of new tires down the road due to uneven premature wear .
Last edited by krankshaft; Apr 25, 2006 at 04:32 AM.
The reason is basically if the tie rods are in bad shape your probably already out of alignment and adjusting the new ones that way will only make it worse.
I like to do as much work as possible myself too but I only had to kill 1 pair of tires to learn the hard and expensive way why alignments are so important.
The cost of an alignment is usually inexpensive when compared to the cost of new tires down the road due to uneven premature wear .
Yeah I totally agree, The main reason I was asking was because Im putting a new set of tires on this fall and I was going to wait for my alignment till then. I put the new tie rods on a few days ago and took it down a long stretch of road and the van seems to drive straight as an arrow even when I take my hands off the wheel. So I might take the risk of putting a little wear on the old tires...I could care less really. I'll align forsure when I get the new rubber.
Dont leave it too long .Changed mine with a new set of rubber last month and same as you my van drives straight as an arrow however you wouldn't believe the tire wear (inside both front).Not worth letting it go for the $80.00. it cost for an alignment.My van sees about 200 kilometers a day so I suspect that had something to do with it.Good luck
Yeah The tie rod replacment went fairly well, I damn near needed a torch for the passenger side she was seized on there pretty good. Nothing my trusty 18" pipe wrench couldent take care of though.
I got one question, I took some other dudes advice and checked the ball joints while I was down there. I put one hand on top of the brake rotor and my other hand on the bottom of the brake rotor and gave it a good "back and forth" shake...and there doesent seem to be any play in the joints. It seems pretty tight. Is that the usual way to check them ? should I assume there ok?
I got one question, I took some other dudes advice and checked the ball joints while I was down there. I put one hand on top of the brake rotor and my other hand on the bottom of the brake rotor and gave it a good "back and forth" shake...and there doesent seem to be any play in the joints. It seems pretty tight. Is that the usual way to check them ? should I assume there ok?
Yep thats the the way to do it 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position.the only thing I would add is its better to do that test with the wheel on and tightened.Another test I do is with the wheel raised a few inches off the ground put a piece of wood or long prybar under the tire and give it the up and down while checking all joints.Hope this helps
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