I have a 2002 Ford Ranger 2WD, 4 wheel ABS, 2.3L 5 speed. For the third time in it's 34,100 miles I am getting pulsation from the front brakes. First time they turned the rotors on the truck at the dealer under warranty. That did not help, so they REMOVED the rotors and turned them. That worked for 5000 miles, and it was back again. This time they replaced the rotors and the problem went away for 15,000 miles. Well, it is back again, and of course out of warranty this time. I plan on doing them myself, but realized last week that they are integral rotor/hubs, so once I have them off, I either turn them or replace them and I didn't have all the stuff I needed (bearing grease, cotter pins, etc.) as I haven't done brake work in years.

At any rate, now that I am ready to do it, I am wondering if there is anything special I need to consider since it has 4 wheel ABS? Do I really need to be concerned about pushing the pistons back in on the calipers when replacing the pads? Also, has anyone had luck turning these rotors and getting useful life out of them afterward, or should I just replace them? So far I can't find any repair manuals that deal with Rangers beyond 1999, so I don't have the torque specs or other tricks to watch out for. Hints would be appreciated!

Thanks.

 

Haynes has a manual for the later Rangers. I am unsure of the part number, but the manual covered up through 2003, I believe. I was able to order mine from O'Reilly Auto Parts. I would think that almost any part store should be able to get the manual for you.

 

My ranger has 4wh abs brakes. I got about 45,000 out of the original brakes. Turned the rotors and replaced the pads. Got another 10 or 15,000 out of them and then went to aftermarket rotors and pads. The mechanic who turned the rotors for me said that some of the new rotors are disposable and can't be turned and reused.

Did you "break in" your new or newly resurfaced rotors and pads ? Supposedly after a good break in they will be more resistant to warping.

 

There's a really good link on brake rotor warping in the tech info thread at the top of this forum.

 

With ABS, you shouldn't push the old brake fluid back into the system when you push the pistons back into the calipers. You should open the bleeders when you push the pistons into the calipers.

 

So you guys are saying the rotor is the hub? With the bearings pressed into it?

For Pete's sake.

Why can't they design it so the rotor comes off separately from the hub.

Talk about old school.

 

Maybe they need to be looking at the ABS system on your truck. Possible the computer that does the thinking is having a problem. As far as doing brakes with ABS, its just like doing a regular brake job. NOTHING SPECIAL!!! Bob, where did you hear that about the old brake fluid? If you don't open the system when you replace pads or shoes, you don't have to bleed the system. Why make more work for yourself! I just open the master cylinder cap to displace the air as you push fluid back into the master. If it gets to full, you could wick some out with a papertowel, or just use an old turkey baster to draw some of the fluid off, so as it does'nt overflow. As far as the rotors, if you've already had them cut once, I would go with new.
Also, since the rotors are new with new races, replace the bearings. Clean all the old grease off the spindle, save the nut and washer, use new cotter pins. Unless your 2WD has some kind of special hub on the front, I usually just snug up my hub nut with the appropriate size socket wrench until the rotor is hard to turn, then back off about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, then tighten finger tight til you can't turn it, and line up your keeper for the cotter pin, insert cotter pin, put your caliper in place with new pads(Loctite on the bolts), pump the peddle until it firms up, check your fluid level in the master cylinder, and you are done.

 

No, the bearings aren't "pressed" into it, just held in place...the inner with the dust seal, and the outer with the washer and hub nut...

 

Sorry, I meant the outer races.

It's been so long since I've done automotive wheel bearings.

Terminology is a bit different I guess. Or maybe not.

 

Check your caliper pins to make sure they aren't seized up. I had same scenario with my 03. Had rotors turned and problem later returned. I assumed rotors were again warped and bought new rotors/bearings and pads from NAPA. While finishing up job I found the right side had one seized up caliper pin. It was making pad hit rotor at an angle and probably causing the shudder and diminished braking . The caliper pins use a special lubricating grease you can find at a parts store.

 

Good point about the caliper pins, Maz. I use a synthetic caliper grease that has a high temp. rating. Bigrig, no appology necessary, when you don't do something for awhile, we all tend to forget things. Also, Hancockr, make sure you hang up the caliper with something secure (bent coat hanger, bungi cord, wire, etc..), don't let it hang by the brake line hose...not a good thing!

 

This is very common knowledge with competent mechanics, here is just one
URL for your reference:

http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/BrakesABS1.html

 

I got 64000 miles on my 02 RangerXLT Supercab 4X4 Off Road 3.0V6 Auto.No Brakes yet!ALL mostly back and forth to town from my Mountain "Hideout"!Have had Brakes checked by dealer few thousand ago,said had plenty pad left! Anyway glad you mentioned brakes,as I can't do my own anymore do to Handicap,but Dealer wants $200 for front pads only!I want to keep my rotors original if possible!This Social Security ,Ain't too much "Security",if ya know what I mean?I can drive into the nearest town with Supermarkets,etc.,and not have to hit the brakes,unless confronted by a tailgator,or other obstruction.My wife has a newer car and drives it EVERYWHERE,already had TWO Brake jobs.I still have my Extended Ford factory Warranty,so am hesitant to have Brakejob at"Minutelube",or similar Franchisees!Should I stick with dealer brakes?

 

lol, no kidding. I bout crapped when I pulled min apart. I have not packed a wheel bearing in 20 years.

 

As long as you stick with a good quality pad it shouldn't make any difference who does your brake work. Can't see how it would affect your extended warranty . Keep a close watch on the wear as there are no wear indicators on the pads like there used to be. You don't get any advance notice till you have ruined your rotors.