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I have been told by more than one person not pull a heavy load in overdrive in my manual transmission. People have told me it will damage the transmission. Others have told me that is a bunch of bs. Just want to find out if it really will hurt my transmission.
1996 F-250 PSD 4x4 5 spd few mods.
Hey you should be fine towing in overdrive just as long as you don't get egt to high or are lugging motor. I pull on a regular basis and have about 50k miles pulling a gooseneck flatbed if I was going fast enough I was in overdrive. If you can keep the rpms over 2k it will help you out alot.
It says not to tow in overdrive in the owners manual. But I havent had problems with my overdrive gear, had to replace syncros and the 2nd gear assembly @ 180,000 miles
It says not to tow in overdrive in the owners manual. But I havent had problems with my overdrive gear, had to replace syncros and the 2nd gear assembly @ 180,000 miles
Do you downshift a lot? I rarely downshift. Usually only when I'm slowing down for a light and it changes to green and I'm off again. I don't downshift to slow down. I use my brakes and let the engine coast while I'm slowing down. Brake pads are a lot cheaper and easier to replace than synchros. It's a good idea to stay close to a gear by just using the clutch as you slow down and leaving it in gear. You don't want to just put it in neutral and let the clutch out, especially on a downgrade with a load. If you need to have the braking effect of the engine in an emergency, it's easier on the tranny to be coasting in gear with the clutch in and then just shifting and letting the clutch out, than it is to push in the clutch and try to shift the gears around with the tranny spinning really fast. You can eliminate most grinding when downshifting by just feathering the clutch for a second(with throttle) in neutral to quicken the speed of the gears in the tranny(double clutching) or feathering it with idle engine speed when upshifting. This makes for less wear on your clutch disc, too.
Last edited by F350_Hauler; Apr 8, 2006 at 05:59 AM.
If I remember the schematic correctly, reverse and overdrive are the only gears on the mainshaft, everything else runs off the countershaft. That means 5th is the strongest gear you have.
The story I've heard circulated is that there are plastic bushings in fifth gear. Sounds like BS to me, but I haven't looked to see. 148,000 miles with no transmission trouble.
its fine in 5th, cookie has it, 5th is on the mainshaft so theres no load on the countershafts creating more heat. ive got 205k on my orginal 5speed only changed the fluid in it every year. its ready to be replaced its kinda rough between 1-2 and 2-3. about 75% of the 205k were towing a 12k lb horse trailer. with the 4.10's it gets in 5th real quick and as long as im above 1800rpms it stays in 5th.
im gonna put a usgear overdrive behind the new 5speed when it goes in this summer.....it will be great to have a 10speed with all the towing.....and the 3.30 overdrive....wonder what kinda mileage i can get with that cruisin down the highway....
its fine in 5th, cookie has it, 5th is on the mainshaft so theres no load on the countershafts creating more heat.
According to my manual for 4th gear:
•The input gear drives the countershaft.
•The countershaft gears drive the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears on the output shaft.
•The 3-4 synchronizer hub is splined to the output shaft, but no gears are engaged to the output shaft.
•When the synchronzier sleeve is shifted forward, the input shaft is locked to the output shaft through the synchronizer hub.
•The output shaft rotates once for every rotation of the crankshaft.
And for 5th:
•The input gear drives the countershaft.
•The countershaft gears drive the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears on the output shaft, and the 5th gear synchronizer.
•The 5th gear synchronizer is splined to the countershaft.
•When the synchronizer sleeve is shifted forward, the 5th gear is engaged to the countershaft.
•The countershaft 5th gear drives the output shaft 5th gear.
•The output shaft is driven in overdrive. Less than one 0.77 CR or 0.76 WR rotation of the crankshaft is needed for each rotation of the output shaft.
So the countershaft is driven in 5th as well as 4th. But 4th has the “straightest” path.
You can read the whole thing here. It has the pictures.
jimbo
i thought it was the other way around, i was looking at the exploded view must have been too much time in the sun yesterday......
ive had 450 hp going through that tranny with 18k behind it haulin butt and never had a problem with my tranny other than the normal wear. the syncros are work out and higher rpms are gettin noisy
i gotta find a rebuilt, know any good sources???? i know phoenix reman trans are garbage. i think i would just rebuild mine but its got a cracked case and i dont have time. i want to put a rebuilt tranny, tcase, and usgear overdrive new driveshafts and i should be good for another 200k at the minumum.
while the tranny is out im gonna pull the pedal box and build a new pedal box with ball bearings and no plastic bushings. ive got too much play in the existing box and i can feel it flexing especially if i have my foot on the brake pedal and push the clutch.
i gotta find a rebuilt, know any good sources???? i know phoenix reman trans are garbage. i think i would just rebuild mine but its got a cracked case and i dont have time. i want to put a rebuilt tranny, tcase, and usgear overdrive new driveshafts and i should be good for another 200k at the minumum.
I've emailed the guy that does my VW transmissions. I'll get back to you if he know's someone.
i gave up on puttin a 6 speed in mine too much work cant have the truck down that long and the $$$$$$$ its just a little more $$ to get the us gear aux trans then im full bolt up, i would just have to get the truck to the driveline shop once its all in to get the shafts worked over, and they need it anyways....
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