Looks like your field trial has decided to really take off. It's gotten me to completely re-think my fuel delivery system. I gotta say thanks for being our test subject on this one!!

The performance companies seem have a way of sending you stuff. My last order from Jeg's came with a nice Jeg's hat and a couple of good sized Jeg's bumper stickers. It was a small order too. I'm thinking it has something to do with a total dollar amount that you've spent with them overall. Nice score guzz!!

 

Now the big question is how well will it feed THESE. Hopefully, with the blessings of the shipping gods, I'll be able to find out next weekend.

Hmm...guess I should go get a set of ZD-11's since I'm going to have the covers off.

 

Ya' know.....I think if I was starting over from scratch I might just slap a pusher pump on it, uncork the fuel rails and call it a day.

 

Those are pretty nice injectors there Scott.
You aren't worried about that cracked block?
I've got a theory in my mind that it's caused by too much power stressing the block.

 

Nope. I figure it will either be fine of it'll blow itself to pieces. Either way, I'm tired of stressing over it. Plus...I'll have a nice starting point for the next motor if this one chooses not to comply.

I am interested in hearing your theory.

 

Nice!!

ZD-11's? Studs?

 

yes, Summit likes to send alot of stuff with their orders. i bought that $25 headlight wiring harness, and along with it came a hat like guzzle showed (on top of my TV), a bunch of coupons, brochures, and even a sample stick of deodorant which i used.

 

My theory is simply this: These blocks were designed to contain a certain amount of HP and you've been able to nearly double the output of your engine. That has to increase the loading of all the parts of the engine. I'm theorizing that the crack in your block is a side effect of all that increased loading that the block is being subjected to. I don't know what sort of tuning your chip has, but if it has some substantially increased injection timing in addition to the triple and quadruple amount of fuel being injected X four times per revolution X 3000 RPM X speed shifting that six speed, etc.
That's my theory. I hope I'm wrong. That would mean that there is a limit to what we can subject these engines to and expect (hope) them to last a long time.

 

Time to get out the casting molds and alter them to have more webbing.

 

Glow plugs. Might as well pop some fresh ones in there while the covers are off.

I suppose anything is possible....but my chip timing is extremely mild, and with stock injectors I'm not anywhere near the power prooduction of several thousand peple. With all the people drag racing and sled pulling their truck I would think cracked blocks would be nearing epidemic levels...unless it's just mine with a defective casting.

I have had the chance to look at one other cracked PSD, in nearly the identical spot as mine. That motor was out of a 96 truck and was stone stock.

Dunno what any of it means....just unlucky I suppose.

 

That was that motor you helped pull a couple of weeks ago?
I didn't think about the sled pulling crowd. If that were the case, you are right, they would be blowing thier crankshafts out the bottom left and right.
Like I said I really hope I'm mistaken about this.

 

I think cookie has it right just bad luck, the casting has a weak point and some will crack some won't. When I was still working for Chebbie the 305 V8s had a issue with cracking on the passenger side about 1" below the deck survface in hte lifter gallery not every one did it but if you have water in the oil you could bet on it bieng there, 2.9L V6 Fords used in the rangers had a issue with cracking the heads always between the valves. 3.1L V6 chevies had an issue with cracking the block right to the outside of the #1 cyl on and on. like I said not everyone did it but if they cracked it was consistant so those places must have just been a weak point that was marginal and most times would hold but bad luck would draw one that was just that slight amount to weak with no rhyme or reason as to why it happened to particular engines.

 

I spent some time yesterday and got cookie's mod installed. One of the main reasons that I wanted to try this is because I am planning to install a regulated return one of these days and felt it would beef up the fuel delivery system over the stock pump.

The bracket that I made to mount the pump to the frame used additional vibration pads, but even with that, the pump is noticible during the WTS cycle. Once the engine starts, you can't hear it.

I didn't notice the massive improvement in engine starting that cookie saw but it was slightly quicker, 2 revolutions of the engine vs. the 3 or 4 that I am used to expecting.

I took a test drive and tried my TS Performance tunes through the 50, 75 and 100 hp settings. The 50 and 75 hp felt about the same as previous, maybe a little more but not real noticeable. I never used the 100 hp setting in the past because the SOTP feeling was that it gave me less go than what I felt in the 75 hp setting. Well, NOT NOW! The WOW factor kicked in with the 100 hp tune and there was a very noticeable difference over the 75 hp tune. That's probably when I decided that this mod was going to stay.

I still do not have a pressure gauge to measure fuel pressure going to the rails but my guess is that the addition of this 'helper' pump either increases the delivered pressure by giving the main pump all the fuel it can handle or simply allows it to deliver a larger volume of fuel to the engine. Either way, it does help.

Thanks!

 

Good to hear Guzzle!...wait till u install the reg return system. Relieving the stock pump of some work pulling fuel from the tank is the key i believe.
BTW, the idea of the pre pump pump started with Monsterbaby and myself
discussing using fuel filters of 1 micron pre stock pump causing longevity problems. Cookie was first to try idea since he's burnt a few stock pumps.
Nut

 

I'm am hooked on this mod!! I'm looking at a carter pump that is 18psi and flows something like 102gph. I think it should work alright!? One quick note on the regulated return system. I made a block out of aluminum. I have drilled it and tapped it so the fuel regulator form the factory filter will fit the face and it will take 2 1/8"npt fitting at each end. I will post some pics when i'm done!!