Cast Intake Manifold Install trix???
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 201
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From: Stanley, IDAHO
Cast Intake Manifold Install trix???
Well, my Rebuild of the 360 is about to wind down to the final stages. I have been warned about issues with poor vaccum seal when installing the darn heavy stock cast Intake manifold. Yeah,I know I should install an Aluminum Intake manifold but its not in the cards for this time around.
What I wanna know is are there any special tricks....to be sure I get a really good seal all the way around that heavy manifold???????? I've been using Aircraft Grade gasket seal everywhere, but I hear through the grape vine that there are special considerations for the Intake manifold!?!??!?!
Thanks for your thoughts
Gary
1966 F-100 in the works....
1934 Tudor Sedan Retro-Rod
1931 Vicky Stock
What I wanna know is are there any special tricks....to be sure I get a really good seal all the way around that heavy manifold???????? I've been using Aircraft Grade gasket seal everywhere, but I hear through the grape vine that there are special considerations for the Intake manifold!?!??!?!
Thanks for your thoughts
Gary
1966 F-100 in the works....
1934 Tudor Sedan Retro-Rod
1931 Vicky Stock
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 861
Likes: 1
I just put one on a 390, same size and heavy intake, I used a Hi-Temp, Hi Torque silicon on mine, sealed up great. To put the intake on I stood on the valve covers and hung on to the carb and set it down straight as I could. No leaks as of yet has been about two weeks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,036
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From: NE Ga
Clean mating surfaces and apply hightemp sylicone to the bottom side of the end cork gaskets and to the block mating surface. place both gaskets on the block and add weights to them to hold them down firmly (large sockets, steel blocks...anything dense and flat.) wait a day for them to cure and set in place and then apply sylicone in your corners of the gaskets and the topside of the cork gaskets and have either a hoist or your favorite Big John to help you lower the 80lb beast on there and you'll never have issue. Obvisouly put sealant around your cooling passages too on the intake gasket itself! Good luck!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 201
Likes: 7
From: Stanley, IDAHO
Well,
I tried using the Cork end gaskets and plenty of RTV sealant and Dog Goned if I didn't end up with a LEAK in the REAR corner................Tear down again.....This time I think I'll chuck the end gaskets in the trash and just use the best Black High TEMP RTV Sealant.....Wish I had a Performance Aluminum Intake manifold.....for less weight to heft on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anybody got an Aluminum Intake Manifold for FE Block they's like to part with??????
Back at it...
GARY
66 F-100 with 1974 360 Rebuilt to Stock with Long Tube Headers
I tried using the Cork end gaskets and plenty of RTV sealant and Dog Goned if I didn't end up with a LEAK in the REAR corner................Tear down again.....This time I think I'll chuck the end gaskets in the trash and just use the best Black High TEMP RTV Sealant.....Wish I had a Performance Aluminum Intake manifold.....for less weight to heft on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anybody got an Aluminum Intake Manifold for FE Block they's like to part with??????
Back at it...
GARY
66 F-100 with 1974 360 Rebuilt to Stock with Long Tube Headers
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 375
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From: East TN.
ive gone through this quite a few times. twice in one weekend actually (this past weekend). i use an engine hoist to lift and replace that friggin thing. i dont use the cork end pieces, just a big bead o black hi temp. good luck
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Paradise Found!
Originally Posted by ggadwa
Well,
I tried using the Cork end gaskets and plenty of RTV sealant and Dog Goned if I didn't end up with a LEAK in the REAR corner................Tear down again.....This time I think I'll chuck the end gaskets in the trash and just use the best Black High TEMP RTV Sealant.....Wish I had a Performance Aluminum Intake manifold.....for less weight to heft on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anybody got an Aluminum Intake Manifold for FE Block they's like to part with??????
Back at it...
GARY
66 F-100 with 1974 360 Rebuilt to Stock with Long Tube Headers
I tried using the Cork end gaskets and plenty of RTV sealant and Dog Goned if I didn't end up with a LEAK in the REAR corner................Tear down again.....This time I think I'll chuck the end gaskets in the trash and just use the best Black High TEMP RTV Sealant.....Wish I had a Performance Aluminum Intake manifold.....for less weight to heft on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anybody got an Aluminum Intake Manifold for FE Block they's like to part with??????
Back at it...
GARY
66 F-100 with 1974 360 Rebuilt to Stock with Long Tube Headers
An "old-timer" taught my brother and I that in 1979 at Bonneville. Used it to this day, and no leaks yet.
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Postmaster
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Clean all old gasket with scraper super clean and wipe down with a rag pre soaked in brake cleaner. Clean about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch down on the exterior portion of engine block around where the cork gasket sits. I apply a good decent bead of Hi-Temp RTV only at the ends of the cork gasket and let the RTV set till it gets real tacky.
The tricky part to getting a good seal, is directly setting the intake manifold down in line with the intake manifold bolt holes. Grasp the front intake manifold from the thermostat housing and grasp using a long bolt inserted where the ground strap is place just behind the carb. (Yeah it's heavy, and some times it take more than one attempt to get the intake to set right).
Prior to replacing gaskets. Replace any intake bolts if they show any sign of rust with grade 5 or grade 8 bolt. Add a flat washer to each bolt. Torque the intake manifold to 32-35 ft.-lbs. Tighten bolts down in Ford manufacture sequence.
Never try to coat a cork gasket completely, the RTV will make the gasket slide in or out and create oil leak.
The tricky part to getting a good seal, is directly setting the intake manifold down in line with the intake manifold bolt holes. Grasp the front intake manifold from the thermostat housing and grasp using a long bolt inserted where the ground strap is place just behind the carb. (Yeah it's heavy, and some times it take more than one attempt to get the intake to set right).
Prior to replacing gaskets. Replace any intake bolts if they show any sign of rust with grade 5 or grade 8 bolt. Add a flat washer to each bolt. Torque the intake manifold to 32-35 ft.-lbs. Tighten bolts down in Ford manufacture sequence.
Never try to coat a cork gasket completely, the RTV will make the gasket slide in or out and create oil leak.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,036
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From: NE Ga
casually talkin to a friend this weekend and he said an old timer taught him to get a sharp punch and hammer that into the block about ever 1/2-1" along. When the punch goes into the block, it swells out giving the gasket something to grip on. Just be careful not to run your finger across it too hard with the sylicone or you'll have a bloody mix. If you'll just take you time and clean all areas well you won't have an issue. We just did our 5th or 6th 390 this past weekend and no leaks thus far with the cork!! TAKE YOUR TIME
Postmaster
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The small 3/4 inch hose going from the water pump to the intake manifold should also be replaced. Replace the hose clamps if necessary. This would be a good time to replace the thermostat and gasket if necessary.
Like to add, when the intake manifold has been set on engine block. Start settin all the intake manifold bolts in before you tighten any one of the bolts down, this will also help to line up the intake manifold to engine block. Pre check the front and rear cork gaskets prior to setting in bolts. Use a small mirror on the rear cork gasket inpection.
buck
Like to add, when the intake manifold has been set on engine block. Start settin all the intake manifold bolts in before you tighten any one of the bolts down, this will also help to line up the intake manifold to engine block. Pre check the front and rear cork gaskets prior to setting in bolts. Use a small mirror on the rear cork gasket inpection.
buck
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 236
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From: Southwest Montana
Cut the little tabbies on the end of the corks to match the angle of the heads
3-M spray adhesive.......glue the corks to the block....5 minute job
dollop of silicone ( I like ultra black at the moment) in each of four corners
use the cherry picker thats what they are for.
first point of contact is the little bypass hose, slide it all the way on
then set it straight down
Ken
3-M spray adhesive.......glue the corks to the block....5 minute job
dollop of silicone ( I like ultra black at the moment) in each of four corners
use the cherry picker thats what they are for.
first point of contact is the little bypass hose, slide it all the way on
then set it straight down
Ken
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 126
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Also be careful if you had your block decked or your heads milled and didn't have the top end rails of the block milled the intake may not sit all the way down when using the cork gaskets. That is the reason I always use Ultra Black instead of the cork gaskets.( Also I do the center punch trick mentioned earlier on both the block and the manifold. Seems like a little insurance just in case the RTV doesn't adhere completely.) Also, make sure to install the distributor and make sure it is centered in the hole before tightening the manifold..
Last edited by Tyqmonn; Apr 21, 2006 at 09:53 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
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For aluminum intakes I think you should never use the cork on the ends. For the cast iron intakes you can go either way. For cast Iron I like to use copper spray a gasket on the intake manifold gaskets. I believe that the cast iron intakes are easier to seal than the aluminum ones but they are definitely a bear to lift into place. As already mentioned, use proper torque and sequence. I've never had a problem with it myself but it is good insurance to drop the distributor in before you tighten everything. Once you've got the intake snug you can pull the distributor back out if need be to finish the installation.
Good Luck!
Tracy
Good Luck!
Tracy
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 206
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From: Portland, OR
What I have done in the past is clean the surfaces really good. Then use a little RTV on the block side set the gaskets in place then set the manifold on the gaskets. Put a couple of wieghts on the top of the manifold and let it set. A day is preferred but a couple of hours will do. Then take the manifold off put RTV on the manifold side and bolt it down. Oh ya and lift the wieghts that you put on the top cause your gonna need an army to lift that manifold. LOL.
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