I need a new engine
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New User
Joined: Mar 2006
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I need a new engine
Well it started running rough so I took it to my mechanic and he did a wet and dry compression test and NO#1 on my 390 CID is at 50lbs the rest were even in the 100s.
It is a 1975 F250 camper special. Replacing the head with reman is going to be 600 to 800 Canadian.
I think I would like to find a rebuilt or one with low miles and swap it out.
Idea's would be great to find out what you all think I should do. I love the truck and want to keep it for years.
It is a 1975 F250 camper special. Replacing the head with reman is going to be 600 to 800 Canadian.
I think I would like to find a rebuilt or one with low miles and swap it out.
Idea's would be great to find out what you all think I should do. I love the truck and want to keep it for years.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
Likes: 5
From: Louisiana
You can get a 360 or a 390 to bolt up to the bell housing on the transmission, but other than that, your about out of options.
If you get any other engine, you would need a new bell housing, and new motor mounts for sure.
Hope you find somthing good.
If you get any other engine, you would need a new bell housing, and new motor mounts for sure.
Hope you find somthing good.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
S&S motor will ship to canada www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com a reman cylinder head is 240.00 and a whole engine is 1300.00
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Originally Posted by Toyguy9
he did a wet and dry compression test and NO#1 on my 390 CID is at 50lbs the rest were even in the 100s.
Testing no 1. Was 50lbs the difference between the wet and the dry test or was that 50lbs both wet and dry (no difference)?
How many miles on the motor?
and....
How is the oil pressure?
New User
Joined: Mar 2006
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Engine
Craigster,
I am not sure on Oil presure , wet and dry is the same! but I just came back from the machine shop and they will take my engine totally rebuild it with new parts for $2500 -$2800 CDN.
But S&S Posted as well and they have one for 1300 USD I will ask them about how much shipping north would be?
I would like the rear bumper off your parts truck.... NIce find with the tree damage. It is a camper special!! like mine..
Parts you dont need please let me know.
Thanks
Rob
I am not sure on Oil presure , wet and dry is the same! but I just came back from the machine shop and they will take my engine totally rebuild it with new parts for $2500 -$2800 CDN.
But S&S Posted as well and they have one for 1300 USD I will ask them about how much shipping north would be?
I would like the rear bumper off your parts truck.... NIce find with the tree damage. It is a camper special!! like mine..
Parts you dont need please let me know.
Thanks
Rob
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 669
Likes: 1
If it didn't change with the addition of oil then it's most likely a valve issue. You can probably fix it by pulling the head from that side. I'd end up doing a total rebuild as I have trouble stopping at the problem once I start tearing into it but you can probably do a repair job just on the valve that's bad and get the truck back going. For good FE engine advice, drop in the FE forum...lot's of great knowledge on these FE engines...be careful though...it's addictive and all the performance stuff that gets talked about costs a bunch of money...don't ask me how I know....LOL.
Tracy
Tracy
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Rob,
As FalconStng said, before you commit to a re-build you might consider pulling the head. Because the #1 wet/dry were the same and the rest were within reasonable specs (I think), it’s more than likely that a valve is bad. Pulling the head/heads wouldn’t take long, will tell you a lot and you might get quite a few more miles out of your motor for little $$$$$$$. With it off you can check the rest of the valves, pistons, cylinder ridge, cyl taper and out of round. If a valve job is all you need it shouldn’t be that much.
<O
</O
Of course there are miles, oil pressure and other factors to consider but at least you would have a lot more info to make your final decision.
Again, if you go to the motor forum you could get other opinions.
I’m in the business of insurance restoration and this year, here in the NW, we had a lot of wind damage. Iv been looking for a donor and the 79 was a lucky find. It’s not a camper special but an F150 4X4, and other than a long bed it’s exactly the same as my restoration. It’s against FTE policy to sell here. Check your PM.
Craig
As FalconStng said, before you commit to a re-build you might consider pulling the head. Because the #1 wet/dry were the same and the rest were within reasonable specs (I think), it’s more than likely that a valve is bad. Pulling the head/heads wouldn’t take long, will tell you a lot and you might get quite a few more miles out of your motor for little $$$$$$$. With it off you can check the rest of the valves, pistons, cylinder ridge, cyl taper and out of round. If a valve job is all you need it shouldn’t be that much.
<O
</OOf course there are miles, oil pressure and other factors to consider but at least you would have a lot more info to make your final decision.
Again, if you go to the motor forum you could get other opinions.
I’m in the business of insurance restoration and this year, here in the NW, we had a lot of wind damage. Iv been looking for a donor and the 79 was a lucky find. It’s not a camper special but an F150 4X4, and other than a long bed it’s exactly the same as my restoration. It’s against FTE policy to sell here. Check your PM.
Craig
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
Pull the head and find out what the problem is.
If all the other cylinders are so close to each other, if that piston and rings are good, why screw with a good thing?
For all you know, it's a bent pushrod. FIND OUT!
Pull the valve cover, disconnect the coil wire from the distributor cap (and let it arc to ground), and turn the engine over with the starter. See if all 8 rocker arms are moving up and down the same amount. Spin the pushrods with the rocker arm in the UP position and see if they are bent.
If all the other cylinders are so close to each other, if that piston and rings are good, why screw with a good thing?
For all you know, it's a bent pushrod. FIND OUT!
Pull the valve cover, disconnect the coil wire from the distributor cap (and let it arc to ground), and turn the engine over with the starter. See if all 8 rocker arms are moving up and down the same amount. Spin the pushrods with the rocker arm in the UP position and see if they are bent.
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