If you guys want to not break the lower shock bolts, tighten them before you loosen them. Heat would be helpful too I think, but I did it without it.

 

Just replaces my shocks wi bilstiens, the sawzall sure made the removal of the top bolts easy!

 

Just replaced rear shocks on 1998 E150. I used 9/16 angled box wrench to loosen nut. Then layed on back ( a lift is easier ) and after loosening nut, left box wrench on top stud and reached under, grabbed upper shock tube and starting turning clockwise to remove shock. Please remember, most upper shock extra long studs is to prevent shocks from falling out if nut comes loose. Once upper tube and nut loose, pull down on shock to remove stud. Remove and then replace in reverse. Remember, hold upper nut and start screwing counter clock-wise upper shock tube. Reinstall 9/16 box end over nut and hand tighten. Good Luck

 

Please do not use heat/weld on any studs or bolts. This will weaken the metal and fatigue will set in.

 

Surely the OP has solved his/her problem in the decade since his post.

 

Sure it's an old post but new people are joining all the time.
I used to take everything apart in the reverse sequence that It was installed. That works fine if you intend to put it back on. Now I revel in the use of air-hammers or a Sawzall. I don't own a oxyacetylene torch setup, if I did more I might look into one. "Over-whelming force" is your friend!

Heat treated so once it starts it doesn't want to stop!

 

I love my air hammer for some things.
It's amazing what you can do with one and the correct set of bits.

 

My 1997 conversion van has blown shocks in the rear at 215,000 miles! So found a deal on Bilsteins at tirerack and while I have the the type of wrenches you showed, including most others known to western man, My back surgery would seem to favor pep boys install for this application. Some times it is just better to avoid the bad words and busted knuckles and defer to a younger guy.. 😎

 

ditto to jeffery. first time that i looked for this answer and glad i did. info is info and e series fords are and will be on the market for years to come.

 

Very late to this thread---and yes new people are joining daily with these same sorts of questions.......

I've found rear shocks are fairly easy to cut off from under the van AND the spare tire is removed. There's a ton of room above the cross member and floor---I use a Milwaukee rotating head high-powered Sawzall with appropriate metal cutting blade, about 8-9" in length IIRC.

Front shocks are another story---when not using something like Bilstein with that upper wrench flat just under the spring perch it can be one helluva challenge. Lots of suggested how-to's but so far I've not found one that works "easy" for me.

 

yes, busted knuckles, bleeding and a lot of expletives. but was finally successful with both sets. fronts were a pain but patience was the rule and they weren't as corroded as the backs. should have thought of removing the spare. eventually used wrench on top with cheater and large channellocks on the bottom shroud. twisted the nut and rod end off this way and was then able to remove them.

 

I am replacing all four shocks. I have replaced the two front shocks without any issue using two box wrenches. Its the rear two that I cant figure out. I understand getting them off by cutting or mangling by holding with channel locks. But how do you tighten to reininstall? Is it ok to put wrench on very top nut and turn the sleeve "hand tight"? If not what is everyone using on nut under the top nut to tighten? Would a crows foot wrench work? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks@

 

If you've successfully changed the front shocks without problems the rears should be a bit easier.

You want the upper nuts tight enough to squeeze the upper and lower rubber bushings. Not sure if your shocks included locking nuts but not adequately compressing the bushings could lead to the nuts loosening during driving making the shocks almost useless---they'd flop around in the mounting hole and not absorb/rebound axle movement.

I use Bilstein mostly because they have relatively large wrench flats at the bottom of the upper stud making installation and eventual removal "easy". Accessing the upper nuts with a flex head ratcheting wrench works well, if your brand shocks don't have that secondary wrench flat and have that outer tube or shield a strap wrench might hold it while tightening those upper nuts. Doing all this behind the rear cross member is where I find the most room, as mentioned removing the spare helps greatly.

Just as a bit of info look for shocks that have the wrench flats at the bottoms of the threaded stem---that is the single best advance in R&I'ing shocks I've ever seen. Also use some anti-seize on those upper stems---makes removal next time much, much easier.

HTH