Front Shock replacement E150 - 2012
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New User
Joined: Feb 2016
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From: Escondido
Front Shock replacement E150 - 2012
Hi All,
I have tried to replace the front shocks on an E150 van and am having issues. My long socket is too long and my short is too short to fit over the upper bolt to remove it. I have an offset box wrench but it also doesn't fit - slightly too small of an offset. This can't and shouldn't be this difficult. Is there a special tool for the removal of the upper nut? I haven't looked at the lower. Is there anything I should know about that so I can get this accomplished pretty quickly?
I have tried to replace the front shocks on an E150 van and am having issues. My long socket is too long and my short is too short to fit over the upper bolt to remove it. I have an offset box wrench but it also doesn't fit - slightly too small of an offset. This can't and shouldn't be this difficult. Is there a special tool for the removal of the upper nut? I haven't looked at the lower. Is there anything I should know about that so I can get this accomplished pretty quickly?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2014
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Oh, but it is...
I assume the 2102 is the same as a 98. The lowers were easy. The uppers were a pain.
I cut the shock shaft with the sawzall to get them out. If you don't have a recip saw buy one. Even with a trip to the store to get one it will take less time than trying to loosen the top nut on the front shocks and you'll have a cool implement of destruction.
As I recall, I used a ratcheting wrench and combo wrench moving what seemed like 1/360th of a turn at a time to tighten them up. I could not get any socket+ratchet/breaker on the nuts.
I simply hit the lowers with an impact gun. If you live in a corrosive environment, soak them the day(s) before with your favorite lube, then heat them with whatever you have (I use a propane torch) to be sure you don't twist the stud out of the arm.
I assume the 2102 is the same as a 98. The lowers were easy. The uppers were a pain.
I cut the shock shaft with the sawzall to get them out. If you don't have a recip saw buy one. Even with a trip to the store to get one it will take less time than trying to loosen the top nut on the front shocks and you'll have a cool implement of destruction.
As I recall, I used a ratcheting wrench and combo wrench moving what seemed like 1/360th of a turn at a time to tighten them up. I could not get any socket+ratchet/breaker on the nuts.
I simply hit the lowers with an impact gun. If you live in a corrosive environment, soak them the day(s) before with your favorite lube, then heat them with whatever you have (I use a propane torch) to be sure you don't twist the stud out of the arm.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
This is made more difficult (without a cutting tool) if the so-called double tube type cheaper shocks are used, those with the metal shield over the shock body and shaft for protecting the moving parts. Once the top nut is stripped or its frozen in place impossibly cutting them out is the only option.
When installing new shocks look for something in the budget that have a "mono-tube" design, similar to Bilstein. Those have wrench flats below the upper mounting threads that make removing them vastly "easier".
Use a liberal amount of anti-seize on those threads---also making things "easier" come next removal time.
HTH
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Joined: Feb 2016
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From: Escondido
Thank you to all
Thanks guys - I was hoping for an easier solution and had though that would be the way I would have to go. I appreciate the help.
Who was the designer for this one? We need to take him out back and show him how to do it right.
Who was the designer for this one? We need to take him out back and show him how to do it right.
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