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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

E150 rear shock replacement

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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 04:30 PM
  #1  
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E150 rear shock replacement

Has anybody tried to replace rear shocks on a late model E150, in their garage, with the usual do-it-yourselfer's tools? I was/am considering this, but I was just under the van and found it very cramped to even see and touch the upper(rod end) nuts, much less get a tool on them. Mine is a 2002, nothing special about the rear suspension. Any tips? All comments welcome, including those that I'd be nuts (no pun intended) to try this.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 08:59 AM
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I didn't think my '92 was bad. Did they change since then?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 09:56 AM
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I did all of the shocks on my '95. I don't recall any differences in the later model vans. I remember it not being the easiest thing to get to the top mounts. Be sure you get a real shock tool.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 11:51 PM
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Tried my sockets without the vehicle jacked up, and just barely got a deep socket of the right size on the rod nut, much less a ratchet. Same with a open-end wrench to hold the rod. Not sure if this is much worse than a '95, but it looked pretty tough on a '02.

By real shock tool do you mean a compressor tool?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Truck Builder 1

By real shock tool do you mean a compressor tool?
No, the top of the shock rod has two flats on it instead of a standard hex head. A special socket is made for use on these. There are two different sizes.

What you described sounds like what I remember. Not much room at the top.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT
 
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 03:46 PM
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My older van has the same tight access problem. When I got it the 10+ y/o shock bolts were so rusted they wouldn't budge, so ripped out [what was left of] the upper rubber washer and cut through the rod with a hacksaw blade. Tightening the nut on the new shocks wasn't much easier, used an open ended wrench and got maybe a 1/4 turn at a time.

ps... a pair of knuckle saving mechanic's gloves are highly recommended :-)
 
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 11:49 AM
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As I recall from replacing all four on my '94, the driver's side rear took as long as the other three combined, but with enough patients, you can do it. I used an ordinary open end spanner like 83van did.

Gene
 
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 02:28 PM
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I just did all 4 on my 85 e250 and the drivers side front was a ******! Racheting swivelling wrenches are the only way!
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 05:51 AM
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Shocks 1995 E-150

Bought top of the line Carquest Shocks $45 each at the store, front and back for $48 on Ebay, took it to Pep Boys and had them put them in $60. So for $108 got good gas shocks and good price and saved $80 for all four installed. The guy at Pep Boys had a hard time with them even with the lift and air tools. Took him about 55 minutes. If you are keeping the van, go Bilstein
 

Last edited by kevin-11; Mar 27, 2006 at 05:54 AM.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 11:14 PM
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OK, OK, you all talked me into having it done . I was going to do it anyway, at least on the rears. Probably do the fronts myself, if for no other reason than I can do the front pads at the same time and save money on both. Thanks for everyone's input, I was looking for a silver bullet that just isn't there.
 
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Old May 15, 2008 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Clubwagon
No, the top of the shock rod has two flats on it instead of a standard hex head. A special socket is made for use on these. There are two different sizes.

What you described sounds like what I remember. Not much room at the top.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

Where can I get this socket????
 
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Old May 15, 2008 | 11:21 PM
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If the shocks have been on long enough to rust, getting those top nuts off can be miserable even w/the special tool. I've seen the end twist right off on shocks in the Rust Belt! Alternate plan B has been the Blue Tip wrench for many. Alternate plan C is to ruin the top steel shield trying to hold it from rotating. Alternate plan D, if so equipped, is to destroy a top plastic shield & ViseGrip the shaft to hold it from rotating. Alternate plan E only works w/certain compact Nut Splitters, were you split the nut if you can get a grip on it.
 
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Old May 16, 2008 | 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Scientific A/C
Where can I get this socket????
Any automotive tool supplier will have them. Most good autoparts stores will either have them or can get them. Autozone may have them but a CarQuest or NAPA would be a better bet.
 
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Old May 16, 2008 | 07:00 AM
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thanx for the quick response. what's a Blue Tip wrench?

i made the mistake of buying monroe gas magnums before checking this site. they don't have a "flat" on the body for open-end wrench!!!
 
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Old May 16, 2008 | 08:10 AM
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From: Saint Augustine, FL
Originally Posted by Scientific A/C
thanx for the quick response. what's a Blue Tip wrench?

i made the mistake of buying monroe gas magnums before checking this site. they don't have a "flat" on the body for open-end wrench!!!
A blue tip wrench is a torch. I prefer the sawzall to cut them off.

I had Monroe Gas Magnums on my Chevy van and never thought much of them.
 
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