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Has anybody tried to replace rear shocks on a late model E150, in their garage, with the usual do-it-yourselfer's tools? I was/am considering this, but I was just under the van and found it very cramped to even see and touch the upper(rod end) nuts, much less get a tool on them. Mine is a 2002, nothing special about the rear suspension. Any tips? All comments welcome, including those that I'd be nuts (no pun intended) to try this.
I did all of the shocks on my '95. I don't recall any differences in the later model vans. I remember it not being the easiest thing to get to the top mounts. Be sure you get a real shock tool.
Tried my sockets without the vehicle jacked up, and just barely got a deep socket of the right size on the rod nut, much less a ratchet. Same with a open-end wrench to hold the rod. Not sure if this is much worse than a '95, but it looked pretty tough on a '02.
No, the top of the shock rod has two flats on it instead of a standard hex head. A special socket is made for use on these. There are two different sizes.
What you described sounds like what I remember. Not much room at the top.
My older van has the same tight access problem. When I got it the 10+ y/o shock bolts were so rusted they wouldn't budge, so ripped out [what was left of] the upper rubber washer and cut through the rod with a hacksaw blade. Tightening the nut on the new shocks wasn't much easier, used an open ended wrench and got maybe a 1/4 turn at a time.
ps... a pair of knuckle saving mechanic's gloves are highly recommended :-)
As I recall from replacing all four on my '94, the driver's side rear took as long as the other three combined, but with enough patients, you can do it. I used an ordinary open end spanner like 83van did.
Bought top of the line Carquest Shocks $45 each at the store, front and back for $48 on Ebay, took it to Pep Boys and had them put them in $60. So for $108 got good gas shocks and good price and saved $80 for all four installed. The guy at Pep Boys had a hard time with them even with the lift and air tools. Took him about 55 minutes. If you are keeping the van, go Bilstein
Last edited by kevin-11; Mar 27, 2006 at 05:54 AM.
OK, OK, you all talked me into having it done . I was going to do it anyway, at least on the rears. Probably do the fronts myself, if for no other reason than I can do the front pads at the same time and save money on both. Thanks for everyone's input, I was looking for a silver bullet that just isn't there.
No, the top of the shock rod has two flats on it instead of a standard hex head. A special socket is made for use on these. There are two different sizes.
What you described sounds like what I remember. Not much room at the top.
If the shocks have been on long enough to rust, getting those top nuts off can be miserable even w/the special tool. I've seen the end twist right off on shocks in the Rust Belt! Alternate plan B has been the Blue Tip wrench for many. Alternate plan C is to ruin the top steel shield trying to hold it from rotating. Alternate plan D, if so equipped, is to destroy a top plastic shield & ViseGrip the shaft to hold it from rotating. Alternate plan E only works w/certain compact Nut Splitters, were you split the nut if you can get a grip on it.
Any automotive tool supplier will have them. Most good autoparts stores will either have them or can get them. Autozone may have them but a CarQuest or NAPA would be a better bet.
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