Ok guys, need some quick advice. I'm going to remove and replace the power steering pump. I already have the new pump, the pulley remover kit, I have the belt off, and the pulley is slowly coming off.

What comes next? The Haynes is extremely general in it's terms and I've run into a couple of things it didn't mention. Advice appreciated.

'94 XLT, 4.0L.

Thanks guys.

RP
Zach

 

It's for a 95 but it should be similar...


Section 11-02A: Steering Pump, Power, C-II 1995 Aerostar, Ranger and Explorer Vehicles Workshop Manual

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Pump and Pulley
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
Steering Pump Pulley Remover T69L-10300-B
Steering Pump Pulley Replacer T65P-3A733-C


Removal

Disconnect the power steering return hose (3A713) at the pump and drain fluid.
Remove the power steering pressure hose (3A719) by unscrewing connector from the pump.
On the Aerostar 3.0L V-6 engine (6007) , loosen the drive belt tensioner (6B209) and adjustment bolts.

On the 2.3L I-4 and 4.0L V-6 engines, slacken belt tension by lifting drive belt tensioner in a counterclockwise direction. On Ranger 3.0L V-6 engines, slacken belt tension by lifting drive belt tensioner in a clockwise direction. Remove drive belt (8620) from under drive belt tensioner and slowly lower pulley to stop. Remove the drive belt from the power steering pump pulley (3A733) .

NOTE: If the drive belt requires servicing, refer to Section 03-05 .

Remove the drive belt from the power steering pump pulley .
Remove the oil dipstick tube.
Remove the power steering pump support (3C511) .
Install Steering Pump Pulley Remover T69L-10300-B on the pulley.
NOTE: Do not apply pressure on the power steering pump rotor shaft (3B559) . Pressure will damage internal thrust areas of the power steering pump (3A674) .

While holding the remover tool nut stationary with a wrench, rotate the inner spindle of the remover tool clockwise until the pulley is pulled off the power steering pump rotor shaft .
Remove the bolts attaching the power steering pump to the A/C compressor mounting bracket (2882) .
Installation

Install the power steering pump on the A/C compressor mounting bracket . Install and tighten attaching bolts to 41-61 Nm (30-45 lb-ft). On 4.0L engine , tighten to 47-64 Nm (35-47 lb-ft).
Position the support on the A/C compressor mounting bracket . Install mounting bolts and tighten to 47-64 Nm (35-47 lb-ft).
NOTE: Fore/aft location of power steering pump pulley on power steering pump rotor shaft is critical. Incorrect belt alignment may cause drive belt squeal or chirp. Make sure pull-off groove on power steering pump pulley is facing front and flush with end of shaft ± 0.254mm (± 0.010 inch).

Install the Steering Pump Pulley Replacer T65P-3A733-C and install the power steering pump pulley .
Install the drive belt on the power steering pump pulley .
On the 2.3L I-4, Ranger 3.0L V-6, and 4.0L V-6 engines, position and rotate drive belt on engine . While lifting drive belt tensioner in a counterclockwise direction (clockwise on Ranger 3.0L V-6), slide drive belt under drive belt tensioner and lower drive belt tensioner to drive belt .
On Aerostar 3.0L V-6 engine, position the belt idler pulley (8678) assembly to give the drive belt the tension specified. Refer to belt tension check in Section 03-05 . Tighten the drive belt tensioner and adjustment bolts to 47-64 Nm (35-47 lb-ft).

Install the power steering pump support , if removed.
Install the oil dipstick tube.
Install the pressure hose tube nut and new Teflon® wagner into power steering pump valve outlet fitting (3D654) and tighten to 41-54 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
Connect the power steering return hose to the power steering pump , and reposition the clamp.
Fill the power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent fluid meeting specification ESW-M2C33-F. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel (3600) from left to right without hitting stops to remove air from the system.
Check for leaks and recheck the fluid level. Add fluid if necessary to proper level as specified in Section 11-00 .

 

Ok when I'm done and it says start the engine and turn the steering wheel, do I leave the cap off or put it back on?

Thanks so much Ken you're a life saver!

 

Put it back on, or you're going to have fluid where you don't want it...

 

Aight will do, thanks drb. I'm guessin' I just cut the engine off, check the fluid level, fill it as appropriate, and I'm good?

Anyways, the old pump is out. 12 years had pretty much sealed the lines to it, they gave me some trouble, but now I'm good.

I was going to cut the line coming out of the bottom and replace it, but at other end of the line it goes into one of those retarded metal lines that (no kidding) goes all the way down, around the actual steering "unit" thing, back up, and into a hole right below where it started. Not that that was a waste or anything.

So I guess I'm stuck reusing it, got it off finally, had a little fight with the other hose, and had a minor tussel pulling it completely out. But it's out now, and going back to O'Reillys for the 50 dollar core charge back.

Just one more thing, this puller remover tool, can it be used to reattach the pulleys? Or do I need to take it to Autozone and swap it for another tool of some sort? Pulling the pulley was by far the hardest part, anybody else notice that?

Thanks for you guys' help.

 

the pulley just gets screwed back on. there should be a threaded hole in the middle. use a bolt, nut and fender washer to reattach.

 

A threaded hole in the middle of what?
The inside of the pulley is perfectly smooth, as is the shaft on the new pump. Though they did send a bolt, nut, and washer with the new pump. I don't see it will work though.

 

There should be a threaded hole inside the shaft- that the bolt will screw onto. With a washer, this should press the pulley back on. Do NOT hammer on the pulley! As for the 'excess' steel line, that is probably to help cool the P/S fluid. My old '70 has about 8 feet folded in to a zig-zag.

 

Ok well long story short. The NEW pump leaked as well...bad reman I guess. I don't know, followed the directions to the letter (stripped three bolts trying to get that pulley on, that was incredibly hard), got everything hooked up, checked all seals, started the truck, and she started leakin'.
It's going to the mechanic tommorow to have a brand new MC pump installed. I don't have the motivation to do that again.
Thanks for all you guys' help.