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I'd say the majority of people would say no. I've heard stories of people having their intakes full of sand and not having the filterminder budge. I'd say it doesn't work too well after hearing that.
Don't know about WW yet. with the stock wheel I'm towing about 12,500 and have bad problems w/ surge and the kwik filter.
My truck is similar to yours except for the Diablo Predator and a WW. I use the Two/Haul tune at all times. I can get down to 2000 rpm and 25-26 psi boost and no stalling. 27 psi and it starts to chirp. I don't push it beyond that. I run 24k gross.
Another thing that might help in your stalling issue for the time being is to reconnect your wastegate. That way your boost won't try and go so high that the intake wheel starts to stall. I don't know if that would work, just trying to resolve your issue for now.
.....If your air box were leaking, you could draw all kinds of dirt and sand in, and still not trip the 'Minder. ............Mine tells me when my filter needs changing, and that's when I change it. Not because it "looks" different..........
Agreed, I know that my Filterminder is working because a very small amount of vacuum placed on the tip will cause it to move to the first notch. After 9 months, I just felt like it.....
Kwik, my wastegate has never been unhooked. I can get into the stall/surge thing at 12-13 psi easily when pulling hard. Thats my problem, my truck is basically useless under these conditions. If I drop a gear, throw the rpms up to 25-2800 and let the boost hit 23-24 it does fine. But thats not where it should be pulling at. The only thing making me down shift is the turbo surge/flutter/stall/whatever.
Kwik, my wastegate has never been unhooked. I can get into the stall/surge thing at 12-13 psi easily when pulling hard. Thats my problem, my truck is basically useless under these conditions. If I drop a gear, throw the rpms up to 25-2800 and let the boost hit 23-24 it does fine. But thats not where it should be pulling at. The only thing making me down shift is the turbo surge/flutter/stall/whatever.
You'll be surprised at how much better the WW works. Yeah you'll lose a pound or two of boost (maybe) but it makes up for it in spades when you are going up that 5 - 6 % grade at WOT and no stalling.
I don't know if you have heard my recordings that I made but one of them was made while climbing a hill while pulling the trailer. Still had the stock exhaust with the Walker BTM and stock fuel programming. Had the big air filter already. http://home.comcast.net/~kwikkordead/index.html
What do I do with the air sensor that is on the side of the stock air box. Just bought the filter, pipe and clamps. Any suggestions on removing the stock air box?
i left my air intake temperature (AIT) sensor plugged in, but zip tied to one of the brake lines. i left the temp probe far enough away so that it would read actual temp and not the temp of the brake line. some (like jtharvey) have mounted it under the filter.
i left the bottom part of my airbox on, i left the snorkel on so it would benefit the ZooDad Mod, and i removed the middle section and the piece that covers up the top of the battery.
in this picture, you can see how much i left on mine. the whole part under the filter is battery box.
well, i have some 4'' exhaust pipe left over from my muffler delete (f'in sweet!) and i am going to remove the CCV plastic coupler between the tubes.
why would you remove the CCV plastic coupler between the tubes?
Because it's quite restrictive. If you've done the CCV mod (run a search for it to find out more) then there's no need for the plastic piece and a much more open piece of exhaust tubing works great.
I see in the big picture above here, the piece of pipe that caused me trouble. It is the pipe that appears to be wrapped up on aluminum insulation that the intake tube presses up against. When I tried to run 4 inch pipe all the way back to the CCV, it bumped against this tube and caused the filter not to lay down as well and made the hood difficult to close. Just looking for the correct name for this insulated tube.....Thanks, Dave
I see in the big picture above here, the piece of pipe that caused me trouble. It is the pipe that appears to be wrapped up on aluminum insulation that the intake tube presses up against. When I tried to run 4 inch pipe all the way back to the CCV, it bumped against this tube and caused the filter not to lay down as well and made the hood difficult to close. Just looking for the correct name for this insulated tube.....Thanks, Dave
It's the hot side intercooler connection tube. The cold side tube is on the passenger side of the engine. Hot air exits the turbo, into the Y-pipe, then goes through the hot side tube, into the intercooler, exits the intercooler on the passenger side, goes through the other intercooler connection tube and into the Y-pipe again, where it then enters the engine. So they are called intercooler connection tubes.
Thank you for the explaination. It would be nice to find an animated illustration of the air flow from being sucked into the filter through its travels to whrere it exits the engine. I know the ins and outs of the operation of the basic engine, but the turbo stuff has thrown another wrench in the works as far as learning all I can about these things...the intercooler and turbo compressor and soforth. I know compressing air heats it up and rapid expansion cools air but thats about it for turbos........Thanks for the insight.
Thank you for the explaination. It would be nice to find an animated illustration of the air flow from being sucked into the filter through its travels to whrere it exits the engine. I know the ins and outs of the operation of the basic engine, but the turbo stuff has thrown another wrench in the works as far as learning all I can about these things...the intercooler and turbo compressor and soforth. I know compressing air heats it up and rapid expansion cools air but thats about it for turbos........Thanks for the insight.
Dave W, this would probably interest you, plus anyone who doesn't know this. start with 101 and work your way up to 103 as you learn
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.