Wicked Wheel Install Lessons Learned
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New User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7
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From: Jacksonville
Wicked Wheel Install Lessons Learned
Finally finished up my wicked wheel install and thought I’d lend some advice for those of you thinking of the install. I have some good before and after boost numbers. The instructions from Black Cloud, FTE and Dieselsite.com where all very informative. The instructions call for you to set the turbo on the pedestal and get everything started before tightening up anything. I did this and got the clamp coming up from the manifold started a little too much. This caused the turbo not to seat properly on the pedestal and when you torque the mounting bolts to 18 ft lbs, it’s never really flat against the pedestal. Talking about a nice oil leak when you fire it up. Next the clamp coming up from the manifold is tricky. There are 2 lips on the turbo side. Make sure you only get the clamp around the first one and not on the second one. This will cause a nice exhaust leak and cause low boost. The best way I found was to go ahead and mount the turbo to the pedestal and torque to 18 ft lbs, then do the clamps, but already have the clamps around the pipes.
Instruction don’t call for you to remove the drivers side intercooler pipe. I recommend you do so you can check for chaffing from the wire covers. Mine had a nice wear mark from the battery cable wire. None of the chaffing had gone through the tube yet but left unattended it would have. I fixed all the wires so they won’t rub now.
<O
Now for the real numbers. My truck (99.5 F250) has a stock program, only mods are the Napa Filter and Muffler Delete Pipe.
Boost comes up much faster with the wicked wheel.
Stock wheel or Wicked Wheel, boost never goes above 18 psi with hard acceleration.
Stock wheel at 70 mph and 2k rpms gives you 4 to 5 psi
Wicked wheel with the same conditions I see 5 to 6 psi<O
Stock wheel causes it to down shift a lot more often, the wicked wheel causes the boost to come up so fast the truck doesn’t down shift as often on the freeway. It just goes. <O
The whistle is present but not all that loud. With the radio on you can’t even hear it. Window down it does sound nice though. <O
Just some thoughts that might help someone before they tackle this project.<O
Instruction don’t call for you to remove the drivers side intercooler pipe. I recommend you do so you can check for chaffing from the wire covers. Mine had a nice wear mark from the battery cable wire. None of the chaffing had gone through the tube yet but left unattended it would have. I fixed all the wires so they won’t rub now.
<O
Now for the real numbers. My truck (99.5 F250) has a stock program, only mods are the Napa Filter and Muffler Delete Pipe.
Boost comes up much faster with the wicked wheel.
Stock wheel or Wicked Wheel, boost never goes above 18 psi with hard acceleration.
Stock wheel at 70 mph and 2k rpms gives you 4 to 5 psi
Wicked wheel with the same conditions I see 5 to 6 psi<O
Stock wheel causes it to down shift a lot more often, the wicked wheel causes the boost to come up so fast the truck doesn’t down shift as often on the freeway. It just goes. <O
The whistle is present but not all that loud. With the radio on you can’t even hear it. Window down it does sound nice though. <O
Just some thoughts that might help someone before they tackle this project.<O
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by sandlapper
Thanks for the info. I'm doing mine next weekend if I have time. Did you change out the o-rings?
Biggest problem was getting the frozen "v" clamp off the up pipe
, on re-install i used lots of anti-sieze compound...practically painted it wit it...LOL!...figured i'll probably be pulling this thing off again. Not particually comfortable laying across the engine too.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 1
From: Central Alabama
Never goes over 18psi? When I put the go pedal down, mine easily goes to 24psi until I defuel (around 25psi)and she is pullin hard all the way to 24psi. Hey guys is 18psi normal or do I have issues?
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New User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Jacksonville
I did replace both sets of o-rings, best thing I did is follow the advice of buying a moving blanket and lay on that while working on the truck. Made it much easier and cost $14.00 at home depot. I bought my wicked wheel from dieselsite.com and they offer the o-rings with the kit (extra 7 bucks I think). They only provide one set of o-rings. I went to ford and got the second set for the pedestal ($5). Best way is to take the turbo out and put it on the bench to work on it. I couldn't imagine doing it in the truck as some instructions call for. I figured if I'm that far in I should replace all the o-rings. To tell you the truth, I ended up taking the turbo out 3 times before I was happy with everything. In the end I could have the turbo out and re-installed in about 2 hours. To get those 2 exhaust clamps off the first time, I advise that you take the t-bolt and nut off. Then tap with a small hammer and it will pop loose.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
yes, i learned the hard way by NOT replacing the o-rings. i started it up and let it idle, and within a minute, i had two gallons all over the engine and on the floor. nice oil leak. so i had to do the whole thing over again. now i have the procedure down good.
an easy way to get the "frozen" up pipe clamp off, is to take a small slotted screwdriver and jab it in the area between the edge of the clamp section (there are three) and the actual turbo flange. then pry up on the handle and it will pop the section off quite easily. do this to the opposite side, and it will enable the bottom section to come off fairly easy.
an easy way to get the "frozen" up pipe clamp off, is to take a small slotted screwdriver and jab it in the area between the edge of the clamp section (there are three) and the actual turbo flange. then pry up on the handle and it will pop the section off quite easily. do this to the opposite side, and it will enable the bottom section to come off fairly easy.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by riceman
To get those 2 exhaust clamps off the first time, I advise that you take the t-bolt and nut off. Then tap with a small hammer and it will pop loose.
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Brett Foote
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Vancouver, WA
Originally Posted by riceman
Finally finished up my wicked wheel install and thought I’d lend some advice for those of you thinking of the install. I have some good before and after boost numbers. The instructions from Black Cloud, FTE and Dieselsite.com where all very informative. The instructions call for you to set the turbo on the pedestal and get everything started before tightening up anything. I did this and got the clamp coming up from the manifold started a little too much. This caused the turbo not to seat properly on the pedestal and when you torque the mounting bolts to 18 ft lbs, it’s never really flat against the pedestal. Talking about a nice oil leak when you fire it up. Next the clamp coming up from the manifold is tricky. There are 2 lips on the turbo side. Make sure you only get the clamp around the first one and not on the second one. This will cause a nice exhaust leak and cause low boost. The best way I found was to go ahead and mount the turbo to the pedestal and torque to 18 ft lbs, then do the clamps, but already have the clamps around the pipes.
Instruction don’t call for you to remove the drivers side intercooler pipe. I recommend you do so you can check for chaffing from the wire covers. Mine had a nice wear mark from the battery cable wire. None of the chaffing had gone through the tube yet but left unattended it would have. I fixed all the wires so they won’t rub now.
<O
Now for the real numbers. My truck (99.5 F250) has a stock program, only mods are the Napa Filter and Muffler Delete Pipe.
Boost comes up much faster with the wicked wheel.
Stock wheel or Wicked Wheel, boost never goes above 18 psi with hard acceleration.
Stock wheel at 70 mph and 2k rpms gives you 4 to 5 psi
Wicked wheel with the same conditions I see 5 to 6 psi<O
Stock wheel causes it to down shift a lot more often, the wicked wheel causes the boost to come up so fast the truck doesn’t down shift as often on the freeway. It just goes. <O
The whistle is present but not all that loud. With the radio on you can’t even hear it. Window down it does sound nice though. <O
Just some thoughts that might help someone before they tackle this project.<O
Instruction don’t call for you to remove the drivers side intercooler pipe. I recommend you do so you can check for chaffing from the wire covers. Mine had a nice wear mark from the battery cable wire. None of the chaffing had gone through the tube yet but left unattended it would have. I fixed all the wires so they won’t rub now.
<O
Now for the real numbers. My truck (99.5 F250) has a stock program, only mods are the Napa Filter and Muffler Delete Pipe.
Boost comes up much faster with the wicked wheel.
Stock wheel or Wicked Wheel, boost never goes above 18 psi with hard acceleration.
Stock wheel at 70 mph and 2k rpms gives you 4 to 5 psi
Wicked wheel with the same conditions I see 5 to 6 psi<O
Stock wheel causes it to down shift a lot more often, the wicked wheel causes the boost to come up so fast the truck doesn’t down shift as often on the freeway. It just goes. <O
The whistle is present but not all that loud. With the radio on you can’t even hear it. Window down it does sound nice though. <O
Just some thoughts that might help someone before they tackle this project.<O
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by RAMPAGE_F350
Never goes over 18psi? When I put the go pedal down, mine easily goes to 24psi until I defuel (around 25psi)and she is pullin hard all the way to 24psi. Hey guys is 18psi normal or do I have issues?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Joe98684
so what would happen if it was torqued down tighter than this? WOuld it deform the o-rings to the point they would leak?
seal failure.
Nut