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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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My first 4x4?

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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 12:13 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
Ok guys planning on fixing my oil pan today.
I bought a high volume oil pump, I was wondering if I would run into any problems using a h.v. pump?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Yes you can.

I'll try and find the article.
ok thanks, glad I haven't started since it started to rain here in CA.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 03:44 PM
  #77  
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Ok changed the oil pump on my turck, I went with a regular pump instead of the H.V.
I also took off the pan and fixed the dents that I could, and cleaned it up.
I also welded that little square box thing where the dip stick goes into.
Then put some J&B over my welds. Then I Repainted it, came out nice.

Now to the next problem, my truck after driving it smokes from the engine.
It's coming from around the exhaust manifolds, I am hoping it's just oil burning off, because when I bought it, it came with the valve covers leaking.
But at the same time I think it might be the blown head gaskets because it smells sweet.
Do you guys have any tips on how to check if they are blown?
I don't have any white smoke out the tail pipes.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 05:19 PM
  #78  
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First observe the color of smoke; Blue smoke a sign of oil, white smoke is a sign of coolant, and black smoke is a sign of a mistuned engine.

Pull one spark plugs at a time, observe and inpect each individually, if the plug or plugs are whitish in color, it a sign of coolant seepage.
-BUCK-
"Resist the temptation"
 

Last edited by 1975Ford; Mar 16, 2006 at 05:24 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 05:47 PM
  #79  
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From: Maryville
I have the NP 203 in my 78 F-150, there are lockouts on the front yet NO conversion in the transfer case, requires you to run around in lock at all times, since it powers the front shaft in just hi or lo. It's not all that good for the transfer case I've read, those that have been done that way have worn the rear shaft and bearings, so you need the part time kit that has the replacement shaft rather than conversion parts to utilize the stock shaft. My 203 shift so smooth I almost fainted, I was playing with it hauling mulch in the yard, no special treatment was needed to shift from lo to hi. The 203 has 5 shift positions, 2 before neutral, 2 after, this should help those who aren't sure due to lack of marked shift ****.
Dad had a 205 in his 76 F-150, low miles on that truck, about 60,000 origional miles, was a one owner, it put up a fit to shift the transfer case. He offered it to me once, I wasn't interested, and it just wouldn't meet my needs without changing much of it over with later parts.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 05:49 PM
  #80  
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Ok started on the rear brakes today, I have already changed the shoes and wheel cylinders, but I can't find new drums.
The drums I have are huge compared to what they show me at the parts store.
Here are some pics,


Can someone tell me what I got here and where I can find new drums?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 06:10 AM
  #81  
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Anyone know, I plan on getting back to them later on today.



Also anyone think I should start new threads about my problems?
It seems people only read threads that are less than 2 pages.
Just a thought, I'm trying to keeps the servers free.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 06:51 PM
  #82  
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If you want help with your brakes, start a new thread, title brake trouble or somthing alonge those lines.
People w/ the brake knowledge might not read this thread b/c it's titled first 4x4.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 01:22 AM
  #83  
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From: San Diego
YOU DON'T WANT A MOTOR FROM CHECKERS ,SHUCKS, OR KRAGEN. I work at kragen in San Diego, go to a reputable machine shop or find a good core motor and take it to them, you will spend a little more but it;s cheaper to do it right once then to do it cheap the first time and right the second. Sorry I work there and still had a bad experience with thier reman motors.
 
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