I have a quick question. I have the manual locking hubs, and the shift pattern for full time on my shifter. Its possible to put locking hubs on the full time;isn't it? I have a hell of a time getting it to go into gear when I shift it according to the pattern on the shift ****. Or, do I have the wrong shift **** on my transfer case?

 

Some one could of converted the transfer case and the hubs, like I did, I thought it didn't really work, but I found out the problem wasn't in the hubs or t case, but in the linkage its self. The hi and lo linkage works fine, but the 4wd and 2wd shift likage is adjustable, and it has to be perfect for it to work.

 

The fulltime 4X4s in stock condition, were really front wheel drive. There is an over running clutch in the back of the transfer case that engages when the front wheels loose traction. This brings the rear wheels into the game.

The shift pattern is forward just out of neutral, to the right and then forward all the way for 4X4 low.
and straight forward out of neutral for 2WD low.
High 4X4 is back just out of neutral, over to the right and a short notch forward.
High 2WD is straight back out of neutral for 2WD high.
There is a light under the center of the dash that should light when you are in 4WD.

If you install Locking Hubs, you will not move to far forward or back with the hubs released. There is a conversion for the transfer case to get selectable 4WD. Saves a lot of gas.
The transfer case for full time has a large cover on the back side in the approximate middle between the rear output shaft and the center of the front axel drive shaft.
The selectable generally has a small bearing cover in the same location.
The selectable case has a gear driven front drive while the full time has a silent chain driven front drive.

Before you go to far, check the shifter linkage. It can really mess you up.

The transfer case patterns are from memory as I have been off my feet for approximately 2 Mo with a right ankle replacement. I have another 6 weeks to go.

 

Try removing the big bolt on transfer case shifter under the cab, with a big crecent wrench. When you remove the transfer case shifter, the shifter hole where the big bolt was should have two nylon bushings, replace bushings if worn, and apply grease on bushing and big bolt when re-installing transfer case shifter. This will help the shifting of the transfer case.

 

1975Ford, if it is a NP203, then there is the problem with shifting, the linkage design is crap.
If you are still not sure if you have a 203 or a 205, then take a look at the t case, if it has a extra 4" piece or iron(that is the range box), and if it has a 6" piece of alluminum for the tail housing(where the driveshaft concets, then it's a 203.
If it doesn't have a range box, or a tail housing longer than 1", then it's a 205 with the wrong shift ****.

 

MBBFord, I have encountered transfer case shift problems numerous of times, and removing the big bolt/bushings on the transfer case. And applying grease on the Bolt and R&R bushings have helped in shifting and engaging the transfer case shift rod.

 

This place is a gold mine for ford truck stuff http://broncograveyard.com/ I checked and they don't have the oil pan but I am betting they can tell you where to get it!

 

Ok guys, I think my engine must be a 360, its what running the numbers comes up and I doubt the people that owned it before me changed it.
Some reasons why are because everything on this thing was original, I changed the leaky water pump and that thing was really rusted, plus it matched the engine block color.
I got a few questions, I bought some new valve covers and was wondering if I had to drain the oil to change them out?

Also I want to buy some edelbrock parts like intake manifold and carb, But when I look them up on jegs they say it wont fit my year engine.
Can some post what they have on there FE or what will fit mine?

Thanks.

 

When you grease the likage bushings, use a good water proof grease similar to that used in boat trailer wheel bearings or Luriplate graphite base grease. This stuf doesn't wash out or dry out. We have had the best luck with the graphite base stuff.
LLL

 

If you find the inside of the valve covers are particularly dirty, you may inadvertently shake some of the sludge into the oil pan or galleys. Then change the oil. If you have not changed the oil since you bought the truck, you may a swell change it when you do the manifold and the rest of the top stuff.
We have not made a distinction between manifolds for 360s and 390s. We have however made a distinction between the service in which the engines are used and the carburetors.
For down low field pulling and torque at the bottom RPM, we generally run a small 4BL or large 2BL. Generally not over 550 CFM.
For down the road the 650 CFM or 750 CFM seem to work very well even pulling a 5th wheel or hauling a camper.
I would recommend checking with someone local to find what they are running. We are in the Sacramento River Delta which is basically sea level.

 

Of course I changed the oil since I bought the truck, its only about a week old, that is why I asked if i had to drain it, when changing the covers.
Another reason is I'm still looking for the oil pan, found it a couple of times on ebay, just keeping missing the auction.

For the edelbrock It shows an intake manifold #2105 and a carb all the way up to 800cfm.
Also does anyone have the edelbroke cam kit, It's only about $150 and just wanted to know what people thought about it?

 

Fmodster303, The Edelbrock Intake Manifold, Performer, Dual Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore Flange matching part # EDL - 2105 will fit 332 thru 428, FE engines and will work on your 360 FE engine. Also purchase your new carb with the electric choke housing, it will cost about $30 dollars more, but will help on those cold morning starts.

When you swap out the intake, you can then replace your valve covers gaskets, and then change the oil and filter again. Keep your pushrods in sequential order as you remove them, this way you can put them back in that sequence. Don't forget to blow out the intake ports on head, and the engine block to free it up from debris and old gasket material. Use new harden steel bolts with new flat washers on your new intake (part # EDL-8508), torque the intake manifold in the proper sequence.

 

Being an old Geezer, I guess I just assume some things will be done like blowing out the ports and all.
I have a question and need comments:
We are using hardened Stainless Steel bolts on the exhaust manifolds on all of our Ford V8 engines. We use the same type of bolts for the center intake manifold next to the heat riser passages. That generally eliminates removal of broken bolts. When we brake the top exhaust manifold bolts on the 360 or 390 etc engines, we generally drill them out and through bolt them. Can this generate problems.
Are there any headers that will withstand the long exposure to high temperatures generated by heavily loaded engines. We have tried several manufacturers but a couple of round trips to Denver will generally burn them out.
The broken bolts are a particular problem on stationary engines on propane.
If we add a turbo, we really have problems.
The problem is particularly bad on the 428s set up for high torque.
Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Well I got to take off the old carb. today, and guess what I found, A 4bbl. carb.
I really have no idea what engine I got now since stock 360's didn't come with 4.
I don't think it's the 390 because the spark plugs I bought for a 390 didn't fit.
The spark plugs for a 360 did fit so thats why I thought it was a 360.
I looked on the carb to see if any numbers I could look up to check what my trucks got in it, but I couldn't find any.
Here are some pics, maybe you guys can tell by looking at them.

Oh yeah I forgot to add, that two of the 4bbl. did not move at all.
They where stuck, and didn't look like they moved in years.

 

The only ford that I can think of that came with a 4v carb was a 460, but most likely the previous owner added it. Also, he might of never go on it enough to open up the secondaries.