**** thornbirds are badass, in the mud and on the street,

 

thornbirds suck on the street, and off the street
thornbirds suck on the street, and off the street
thornbirds suck on the street, and off the street
thornbirds suck on the street, and off the street
thornbirds suck on the street, and off the street

edit: and they throw lugs off of them when you run over a little twig. or just drive them on the street.

 

thats sarcasm right???

 

Thornbirds are good when you're spinning your tires sideways on an obstacle, catch a tree root on the side, and they'll practically tip the truck over when those lugs catch.

The void pattern is too tight, they wear badly, and they are loud. They are a great show tire (they look awesome). They also COST way too much for what you get. I've already gone through on another forum and did the whole cost analysis on them. Go to 4wheel parts, or 4wheel customs, or a vendor on here if they have a website with the full Interco tire line and start comparing prices on similar sizes. Or open your 4wheeler mag. Nevermind, got one right next to me.

Courtesy of National Tire and Wheel, we shall look at 35" tires for the comparison, closest to 35x12.50x15, that's a common size.

Thornbird - 35x12.50x15 - 174
TSL Bogger - 35x10.50x15 - 195
TSL (Bias) - 36x12.50x15 - 176 (Radial is 202)
Truxus MT (GREAT all-around tire) - 35x12.50x15 - 181

As you can see, you can get better mud-oriented tires for the same price (bigger, even) or step up for the big guy the Bogger. Or you can get the Truxus MT which is good in the mud, rocks, dirt, snow, and the street, wears great even as well for a few dollars more. And I've seen it cheaper from other vendors. So why pay for an inferior tire? It excels in no arena, but costs the same as tires that do. But in the end, its your money.

Heck, get the BFG MT's before you get the Turd birds. Or Pro Comp MT. Or Dynamic MT. Or Mud King XT's.

 

Rears are easy, especially if it is lift blocks. Add-a-leafs are a bit more time consuming. As for the TTB lift up front, it depends on the manufacturer. you will either have to remove the brackets that hold your trailing arms, and replace with the drop brackets, or just install longer trailing arms. You also have to remove and replace the brackets that hold your stock traction beams, or install longer ones. Then you will need a special tool to remove the stock pitman arm from the power steering box, and install a drop pitman arm. Depending on the mileage of the vehicle, you may also need to replace your ball joints (good idea to do this anyhow) and your tie rod ends. Of course you will have to replace your shocks, and you may want to get a dual shock set up for the fronts. As far as running 38s, go for it, but you will have to switch out your ring and pinion sets both front and rear for something in the 4.56-5.13 gear ratio. This can be tricky if you've never done it before. If you don't have limited slip differentials, you may think about doing that too. www.broncograveyard.com has everything as far as differential stuff, and its an easy site to navigate. Low prices too. they are who i am getting all the drivetrain stuff for my 94 F-150 from.

 

With a 4.9 and 38's stay away from the bogger if you go offroad, as you ain't going to have enough power to turn boggers quick enough to get full benefit out of them.

I'd also look into ground hawgs if you want a good wearing tire.

 

you know what, right after I posted, I thought about Ground Hawgs and forgot to add it, lol.

 

/* ttb isnt twin torsion bar, as there are no torsion bars on these, its twin traction beam. and thornbirds do suck, period.

 

I Would Not Recomond Using Any Tires Larger Than A 36'' With Thoes Axles And 4.56 Gears Would Probably Be Good With 36'' Tires. You Should Run A Tire Like A Bfg Mud Terreain,mickey Thompson Or A Pro-comp And Deffently Not A Supper Swamper If You Want More Than 10-15k On The Street. You Would Break U-joints Axle Shafts Pinion Gears With 38'' Tires On Stock 44 Axles And Ford 8.8 Axles

 

lets just put it this way, if you wanna go that big, your gonna need to upgrade if you plan on any hard wheeling. ive seen people start snapping axle shafts with 33's, and blow apart front u joints with 31's, ive done it, and they were only 31 10.5 bfg mts, no swamper or nothing. your gonna want at least a 44 solid front, or a really beefed ttb, and a 60 rear. monster on here gets away with the ttb, even with 800 horspower, but hes running in a staight line, with minimul shock loads, hes not cutting it back and forth getting out of a rut, and catching tree roots, or rocks in the ground to through shock into the equation.

 

monster's running a solid 44

 

ahha, i knew i would screw that up somewhere. still i guess my point kinda makes it across.