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fuel rail disconnect problem

 
  #1  
Old 11-06-2005, 01:52 PM
lattices2
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fuel rail disconnect problem

'90 351W EFI

IM trying to disconnect the fuel rail both IN and RETURN lines.
I rented the tools at the local parts shop.
I had a heck of a time disconnecting the fuel IN line but finally it clicked and popped out after 1 hour, After1/2 hour later i still cant disconnect the fuel RETURN line which is similiar but a little bigger and used the bigger duck bill clip. Is there anyway to make this easier? I dont want to break the line.
Therese a spring in there that i think holds onto a lip of the fuel In line from what i see.

Any help to get this disconnected appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 11-06-2005, 05:05 PM
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In my experience they are just a royal PITA. Sometimes a little penetrating oil to help free up the expansion spring will help otherwise its just a case of pushing til the spring finally decides to move and release the coupler. Use it sparingly though because too much will just make the parts and the tools slippery and the whole process more difficult. Spent an hour in the pouring rain one day trying to get the one free from a Ranger fuel rail. (long story don't ask.)
 

Last edited by greystreak92; 11-06-2005 at 05:08 PM.
  #3  
Old 11-06-2005, 05:45 PM
lattices2
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Red face

thanks for the info. funny thing i just spent an hour in the pouring rain too trying to get it loose. Ill try a bit of penetrating oil in the morning and just keep at it. i thought i was doing something wrong.
Why is it called "quick" disconnects??
 
  #4  
Old 11-07-2005, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by lattices2
Why is it called "quick" disconnects??
An interesting oxymoron there. I have NO idea what brain trust came up with that description for them.
 
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Old 11-07-2005, 12:34 PM
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Well i realized for changing my fuel injectors i didnt have to remove the return line. There was enough play to pop out the rail to change it all with just the inline disconnected.

Running way better now. Shifts properly and way more power. but only time wil tell. I was down to 6-7 mpg city but still 15 highway. I think my #5 cylinder injector was bad. I dont here a noise coming from there anymore. Ill see how the mileage goes

Thanks
 
  #6  
Old 11-07-2005, 04:30 PM
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Very cool. I'd certanly like to hear how/if things improve over time. I have never replaced mine but often wondered what, if any positive effect it might have on the truck's performance.
 
  #7  
Old 11-11-2005, 01:39 AM
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I recommend the disconnect tool that looks like a pair of pliers. If you use any of those plastic or even aluminum "one size fits all" tools that are cylindrical, you are at a loss. The plier tool will give you enough leverage to easily move things around and get it disconnected. Mine are Matco, if I remember right, or maybe Snapon. I had my buddy, who is a mechanic buy me a set off the tool truck. They look sort of like these:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Hope this helps for the next time around!

George
 
  #8  
Old 11-19-2005, 12:53 PM
lattices2
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'90 351W EFI

Just to update. After replacing all my injectors(bought 8 new ones off ebay for the price of 1 at the parts store 19psi stock type), my truck is running great. RPM's are really steady all the time at idle now I cant even see the needle move. I didnt change anything else . I dont see any improvment in gas mileage though but got lots more power. I refound the sweet spot in timing to be about 13 BTC. I drove around 2 hours one night just accelerating at stop lights cause it hasnt done that in a year. Before the power was almost the same anywhere between 10BTC and 18BTC.

Ive read here and been told thats possibly cause the timing chain may be loose?
 
  #9  
Old 11-19-2005, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by lattices2
Ive read here and been told thats possibly cause the timing chain may be loose?
I suppose its possible but the quick way to check is to warm up the truck and pull the SPOUT connector like you are gonna reset the base timing. Then watch the timing marks closely with the light. If the mark on the harmonic balancer jumps around a lot (with the SPOUT conn. removed) you could have some slop in the chain.
 
  #10  
Old 11-22-2005, 10:58 PM
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Since I've got a bunch of Ford trucks I've cussed the "quick connect" fittings a bunch of times. A little spray silicone or penetrating oil helps tremendously. Plus the time when you are finally taking them apart is usually about 15 years after they were apart last. But the best part is if you think about how it's supposed to work. You have to push it together along with the tool to get it to disconnect and you have to pull them apart. Which is it? Push it or pull it? Both at the same time! It's a fine line between pushing it to disconnect and pulling it to unconnect it without locking it back together again. All of this time you are hunched up on top of the engine using two hands when you really need three or four hands. I love my Fords but I hope that the engineer that designed such a chinese puzzle got what was coming to him. In reality he's out there somewhere laughing at all of us!
 
 
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