Best method of chassis rust proofing
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 24,418
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From: San Francisco, Ca.
Cruiseomatic, I would think that grease would keep it from rusting and dirt would trap some sort of moisture and help it rust more.
Either way, you're gonna have to clean up the frame quite a bit so the paint will adhere to it.
I'd research what ever type of paint you're gonna use see what's involved in prepping the frame.
It depends on how much effort you want to put into it. That's where the fun begins.
I went to the sandblasting process. I stripped the frame of everything that was attached to it and had it blasted down to a shinny new looking frame.
Even the blastman commented that my frame was close to perfect as can be.
No bends or tweaks in it.
Either way, you're gonna have to clean up the frame quite a bit so the paint will adhere to it.
I'd research what ever type of paint you're gonna use see what's involved in prepping the frame.
It depends on how much effort you want to put into it. That's where the fun begins.
I went to the sandblasting process. I stripped the frame of everything that was attached to it and had it blasted down to a shinny new looking frame.
Even the blastman commented that my frame was close to perfect as can be.
No bends or tweaks in it.
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From: Dark side of the sun.
I wish I could sandblast it or have it done but I don't have the money or the tools and facilities to sandblast the frame but can't,and the dirt is a dusty dirt. (Best I can describe it.) Its not like mud,but dusty..... the front is covered in grease and what not. Would using a grinder with a wirewheel be just as good as sandblasting? I'm on such a tight budget with this and only have the backyard or driveway to do this,If it has to go to a shop I'm gonna have to drive it there.
But when I lift the cab,could I take the grill,radiator,etc.. off and walk the cab backwards off the chassis?
Sorry for all the questions,but This is my first restore job and on a high school kid budget.
When I start to take things apart I'm gonna number what it came off of and any bolts or parts that come off are gonna be put in plastic "sandwich" baggies or freezer storage baggies so I don't lose them.
But when I go to do this,it looks like i'm gonna go with zero rust untill I find more out about it.....and why can't I get rid of this bold text......
Thanks guys.
I appreciate the help.
But when I lift the cab,could I take the grill,radiator,etc.. off and walk the cab backwards off the chassis?
Sorry for all the questions,but This is my first restore job and on a high school kid budget.
When I start to take things apart I'm gonna number what it came off of and any bolts or parts that come off are gonna be put in plastic "sandwich" baggies or freezer storage baggies so I don't lose them.
But when I go to do this,it looks like i'm gonna go with zero rust untill I find more out about it.....and why can't I get rid of this bold text......
Thanks guys.
I appreciate the help.
Last edited by Cruiseomatic; Oct 8, 2005 at 09:04 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 24,418
Likes: 3
From: San Francisco, Ca.
Cruiseomatic, I wouldn't use a grinder wheel, but a wire wheel would work.
It's going to be some what labor intensive, but sounds like you have no choice.
As for the cab, I'd take as much off as I can to make it lighter.
And that includes the front clip.
Also take off the doors and seat(s). That'll make the cab even lighter.
As Scoarch said, walk the cab back back.
Is the bed is still on the frame?
Don't forget to disconnect everything, including the throttle linkage and whatever may be attached to both the cab and the front clip.
Don't forget the gloves. There are some mighty sharp edges all over.
I forgot to ask. What year is the truck?
It's going to be some what labor intensive, but sounds like you have no choice.
As for the cab, I'd take as much off as I can to make it lighter.
And that includes the front clip.
Also take off the doors and seat(s). That'll make the cab even lighter.
As Scoarch said, walk the cab back back.
Is the bed is still on the frame?
Don't forget to disconnect everything, including the throttle linkage and whatever may be attached to both the cab and the front clip.
Don't forget the gloves. There are some mighty sharp edges all over.
I forgot to ask. What year is the truck?
Last edited by sierraben; Oct 8, 2005 at 10:58 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: Beavercreek oh
I know that this probably does not need to be said but don't forget to wear safety goggles and gloves when working with a wire wheel, those wires hurt like the devil when they come flying off.
I'd use a narrow putty knife and any thing else that would scrape off as much as possible, maybe you know someone that has a pressure washer you could borrow.
Good luck!!
John
I'd use a narrow putty knife and any thing else that would scrape off as much as possible, maybe you know someone that has a pressure washer you could borrow.
Good luck!!
John
Posting Guru
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You know you can get a sandblasting attachment for a Powerwasher some rental shops rent them. The sand is mixed in the high pressure water spray it works fairly well you do go though a little more sand (sillica).
A disk type wire wheel works good just watch out when it grabs you will usually get it in the guts. The cup wheels are worse they are really grabby and hard to get into some places.
Another thing you can try is a Needle Scaler which is a air tool with a bunch of steel rods that poke at the steel slowly chipping off the rust etc. Its a slow process but it does work oh ya its noisy. You might beable to rent one or buy one you do need a air compressor.
A disk type wire wheel works good just watch out when it grabs you will usually get it in the guts. The cup wheels are worse they are really grabby and hard to get into some places.
Another thing you can try is a Needle Scaler which is a air tool with a bunch of steel rods that poke at the steel slowly chipping off the rust etc. Its a slow process but it does work oh ya its noisy. You might beable to rent one or buy one you do need a air compressor.
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Posting Guru
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From: Dark side of the sun.
We have a pressure washer but it needs seals and no one around here sells them,It's an "Ex-cell" and I've called shops about them,they don't have anything,I have to call ex-cell directly to get anything.
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i was thinking last night and probably your best bet would be to use a wire cup and a wire knotted wheel.
the knotted wheel goes on a 4 1/2" angle grinder. removes powdery rust really well. if you have any scaley flakey rost , smack it with a hammer to remove most of it before using the knotted wheel.
and as kenworth said be carefull. when those wires go screaming accross your belly it is worse than road rash. it is like a thousand tiny cuts.(don't ask how i know
)
when you get most of the rust off hit what is left with a rust converter like Rust Mort.
follow the directions carefully or your paint won't adhere to the frame.
then prime and paint.
good luck
Scott
the knotted wheel goes on a 4 1/2" angle grinder. removes powdery rust really well. if you have any scaley flakey rost , smack it with a hammer to remove most of it before using the knotted wheel.
and as kenworth said be carefull. when those wires go screaming accross your belly it is worse than road rash. it is like a thousand tiny cuts.(don't ask how i know
)when you get most of the rust off hit what is left with a rust converter like Rust Mort.
follow the directions carefully or your paint won't adhere to the frame.
then prime and paint.
good luck
Scott
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Never get a body part in line with the rotating wire wheel or you will get wires embedded in you. Always wear safety glasses AND a face shield.
You can use this stuff to coat the frame also:
http://rustbullet.com/Products/Autom...Automotive.htm
It is a urethane coating similar to Por-15 but it is a silver color and does not have to be top coated to provide UV resistance.
Wear proper protective gear and gloves. Don't get it on you or you will be wearing it for a few weeks.
You can use this stuff to coat the frame also:
http://rustbullet.com/Products/Autom...Automotive.htm
It is a urethane coating similar to Por-15 but it is a silver color and does not have to be top coated to provide UV resistance.
Wear proper protective gear and gloves. Don't get it on you or you will be wearing it for a few weeks.
Last edited by Torque1st; Oct 10, 2005 at 04:11 AM.
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With a wire wheel or any kind of angle grinder you should always use the side handle. You should wear a set of welding gloves the ones with individual fingers. A face shield with a dust mask is also a must DON'T breath in the dust or you will feel like you got a fat lady sitting on your chest.
The thing with a wire wheel is once its got a hold of your clothes it wraps around the wheel and either rips the shirt or you get some road rash.
I have a wire cup wheel on a 7" angle grinder it is a little tough to hang onto the grinder when the wheel catches a edge.
In our shop all we use is 7" angle grinders for grinding so I'am used to working with them and know you have to hold on to them. You never go into la la land with a angle grinder aways pay attention to what you are doing or it will bite you.
Just remember you can't replace your eyes so wear a face sheild or safety glasses and a pair of gloves to keep your fingers from getting chewed up.
The thing with a wire wheel is once its got a hold of your clothes it wraps around the wheel and either rips the shirt or you get some road rash.
I have a wire cup wheel on a 7" angle grinder it is a little tough to hang onto the grinder when the wheel catches a edge.
In our shop all we use is 7" angle grinders for grinding so I'am used to working with them and know you have to hold on to them. You never go into la la land with a angle grinder aways pay attention to what you are doing or it will bite you.
Just remember you can't replace your eyes so wear a face sheild or safety glasses and a pair of gloves to keep your fingers from getting chewed up.
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