Best method of chassis rust proofing
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From: Dark side of the sun.
Best method of chassis rust proofing
I want to rust proof the chassis on my truck,But whats the best way to go about it?
I've heard undercoating is bad because it flakes off,
Paint......Water gets under it and will rust the metal out...
A new one to me is "Hot-Dip Galvanizing".
Any thoughts about that?
Lastly,whats the best method and cost effictive way to do this with good results?
This is gonna be on a TIGHT budget.....
Thanks.
I've heard undercoating is bad because it flakes off,
Paint......Water gets under it and will rust the metal out...
A new one to me is "Hot-Dip Galvanizing".
Any thoughts about that?
Lastly,whats the best method and cost effictive way to do this with good results?
This is gonna be on a TIGHT budget.....
Thanks.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
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From: The Big, Oregon
You can get cans of spray-on cold galvanizing compound for about $8 a can. To hot dip it, you would have to strip everything off, sandblast it, then pay about $3,000 to have it dipped. Then, the first time the frame flexes, it will start flaking off. If properly prepared, any decent paint should stay put. Light surface rust on a frame is fine, and doesn't affect anything.
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On my 79 that I have sitting in the garage that I will hopefully be able to switch cab and bed on pretty soon (have a good cab and decent bed for it, just need to be switched, but really don't have a way to switch them), I took one of those small handheld wire brushes and brushed it off, then took a wire brush and put on a drill, and went back over it with that...then bought some Rust-O-Leum paint enamel in a can at wal-mart, and thinned it down a little, and brushed it on...looks GREAT..
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I sand blasted my frame and then painted it with zero-rust. cost me about $180 canadian.
went with the z-rust because of the price difference. Half the cost of por-15 and i was told by several painters that it works just as well.
i would sugest spraying the z-rust if you use it. I brushed half my frame and went through twice the paint as the other half that i sprayed. the sprayed looks much better than the brushed. you can't thin z-rust so it is a pain to brush.
the frame looks amazing. will post pics when i get it to the rolling stage so i can get it outside.
if you are going to use wire brushes to clean it, make sure you use some sort of rust stabilizer before paint.
good luck
went with the z-rust because of the price difference. Half the cost of por-15 and i was told by several painters that it works just as well.
i would sugest spraying the z-rust if you use it. I brushed half my frame and went through twice the paint as the other half that i sprayed. the sprayed looks much better than the brushed. you can't thin z-rust so it is a pain to brush.
the frame looks amazing. will post pics when i get it to the rolling stage so i can get it outside.
if you are going to use wire brushes to clean it, make sure you use some sort of rust stabilizer before paint.
good luck
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From: Dark side of the sun.
Thanks guys,It looks to be a toss up between POR-15 and zero rust.
Which would be better,lift the cab off the chassis or leave it on? The bed would'nt be that hard but the cab is going to be a pain since I've never done a Cab off or takin it apart.
Which would be better,lift the cab off the chassis or leave it on? The bed would'nt be that hard but the cab is going to be a pain since I've never done a Cab off or takin it apart.
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suprisingly easy to take cab off if you have proper lift. take front clip off as one piece, then umhook and lable everything from cab to engine, frame ect... lift away
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From: Dark side of the sun.
Originally Posted by Scoarch
suprisingly easy to take cab off if you have proper lift. take front clip off as one piece, then umhook and lable everything from cab to engine, frame ect... lift away
Post Fiend
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From: San Francisco, Ca.
Cruiseomatic, I don't see why not.
Then you'll need 4 strong guys, or 6 not so strong guys.
The engine will have to be removed, though.
Otherwise, you'll have to lift the whole assembly up and over the engine.
It's no big deal to seperate the cab from the front clip.
JMHO
Then you'll need 4 strong guys, or 6 not so strong guys.
The engine will have to be removed, though.
Otherwise, you'll have to lift the whole assembly up and over the engine.
It's no big deal to seperate the cab from the front clip.
JMHO
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Grease will slow it down but dirt will hold moisture and help promote rust.
the truck frame i redid had a flat deck on and everything undernieththe deck it was dirty and rusty.
the engine ,tranny, powerstearing lines,pinion seal all were leaking all over the front of the frame and it was imaculate . i only had to split the crossmembers on the back half of the frame to get rid of the rust.
scott
the truck frame i redid had a flat deck on and everything undernieththe deck it was dirty and rusty.
the engine ,tranny, powerstearing lines,pinion seal all were leaking all over the front of the frame and it was imaculate . i only had to split the crossmembers on the back half of the frame to get rid of the rust.
scott