Here you go.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=423340

Would also like to know if you have a big rear window (51-52 style) or small rear window.

Thanks Sarge.

 

I still haven't figured out how to get info down loaded to posts, anyway in answer to some of these questions.
I have posted the info in my gallery, for anyone interested, and maybe someone can download it onto this post.

 

i'm in pennsylvania and have pieced my 49 together. every part of it has come from a different truck. my cab has a stamped number on the cowl, the frame has a stamped # on the top rail, and the glovebox door has a '48 vin plate on it. none of these numbers have any bussiness being on the same vehicle. which one do i want to use when i attempt to get a title?
thanks for any advice.

 

Since the Ford shop manual mentions and describes how to swap the cab("The cab assembly on Ford conventional and C.O.E. trucks may be replaed as a complete unit."), which thus makes it a "replaceable component" you can probably make a good case that the # stamped on the frame governs.

 

Depends on how thorough your local DMV officials are. In my state all they looked at was the VIN plate on the glove box. I don't think they were even aware of any other places to look. Volunteer as little information to them as possible for less hassle. Even though my VIN specifies a 49 model and I never found a number on the frame rail, the PO listed it as a 48 in the bill of sale so the state says it's a 48 and registered it as such. That's good enough for me because all I wanted was a plate for it...

Vern

 

GNW has provided another good approach to the problem. Depends on what you want to do. What he has suggested may be the quickest and easiest way to do this if all you want to do is title it, make it legal, and you don't really care how it registered. If you are someone who gets picky about these sorts of things and chooses to do everything by the book, the frame VIN is probably the one you can make the best case for using. May also depend on your state laws/rules governing this sort of thing. As suggested in the previous post, trying to do things the right way can sometimes be more difficult and frustrating. Offering the least amount of imformation and letting DMV employee do the thinkning may help expedite the process.

Just an FYI - you can purchase new VIN tags for the firewall and the glovebox door and have them stamped to match the frame rail # if you have one and can find it. I do not know who sells these but I'm certain that I could search this forum and have an answer in just a few minutes. I'm almost certain that someone who does know will post the source of the VIN tags for you very soon. I know I've seen them and I know I've seen them discussed, so I know they are avilable.

 

thanks for the input. i'll have to see if the frame numbers are legible enough. anyone know how many digits a chassis # would have?

 

For tags you can try this place, I have never bought anything from them but I have suggested them to others who have found them to very good.

http://www.datatags.com/

BTW, the F-4 flatbed I am working on is a '51 but I am using '48 sheetmetal. I have the title and bill of sale from the '51 but nothing from the '48 so I guess it's going to registered as a '51. The tags are bad and I am going to get new one from this place as so as I get that far.

One other thing that is sort of related to this thead is registering your truck as soon as you get it. I don't usually do this but it is foolish not to do it as soon as you get your truck, especially if you have pieced a truck together from numerous trucks, another thing I do. Legally, I have heard, if you don't register your truck right away the previous owner(s) might have some legal standing to come get your truck after you have stuck a lot of money and time into it if you don't have legal proof it's yours and they have something to show they own some part of it. A lot of people, like me, buy parts trucks and never get a bill of sale or title, I know, a little foolish too but it happens. A lot of time you're just buying just half a truck so getting a title or bill of sale doesn't seem to be a big deal. I'm sure it's different in every state. Just something to think about.

 

You should at least have the six digit sequence # but most if not all that I have seen on the frame rail also have the four or five digit prefix with a star at either end -
i.e. * 98RC 123456 *

 

Could the 0 in the 10 could be an O for OKC? Since I am from Oklahoma. What would the color 1 be?

The Navy tailgate didn't come on the truck but it came with it (An ugly and cracked tailgate came on it) so I guess there is a slight possibility it was a Navy truck. Behind where the gas tank used to be is a gray color. Thanks.

hotrod48

 

okay.
my frame # is obliterated.
i have stamped #'s everywhere, though. the front cross-member has
21C
50873 on it. centered.
the engine-mount supports are stamped
7RC
5020
are these part-numbers, or is the vin# included here somewhere?
thanks again.
no, i'm not a purist, i just want get it on the road.

 

primered,

Welcome to the board!! there are tons of us here in the same boat.....just trying to get it on the road.

Can you give us a bit more info on what you have? perhaps a year?
I think the 48-50 (not sure on 51,52) have the vin# stamped into the front of the frame on the pasenger side near the shock mount, there is also a small aluminum tag on the pasenger side firewall and another tag inside the gove box door. I'm not sure about the newer trucks.

I think the numbers you have posted are part #'s for the particular components.

When you get a chance, set up a gallery of your truck. Everyone around here loves to look at what the other guy is doing.

Good luck,
Bobby

 

thanks,

i'll try to figure out the gallery. brace yourselves.
the chassis is a '50, cab's a '48, clip and flat-6 are a '49, doors are from a '51, box is '52. all the small stuff, column, steering box, gearbox, seat, grill were found in different places. lot of fun, not a lot of dough.
i think $600 total, so far.
including paint.
primered

 

Primer,

I think the #'s you found are part numbers. The frame stamping can be very difficult to find and I had one frame that I never was able to locate a Vin # on.

In your first post on this thread #33, you indicated that you had a VIN plate on the glove box door, a VIn plate on the cowl, and a number stamped on the frame (though later described as obliterated). See what you can pull off of any of those. As stated above, the frame stamping can be difficult to locate and read but should be in the format similar to what I posted above. Instead of 98RC, it could start with a 97HC, and 88RC, or an 87HC depending on year and whether it originally had a six or an 8 in it. Try reding what ever you can off of the frame. We may be able to make a good educated guess at what it should be.

Just as an FYI to you, this evening, I looked at what I believe to be a 49. On the glove box, it had the sequence #239176 but on the firewalll Vin plate it read 249176 with the 4 in some sort of a superscript. Weirdest one I've seen yet.

Also, there may be a number stamped directly into the firewall above the seam, or ppossibly below, usually in the center of the firewall but could be off to one side. That's a good number to get also (for us that are collecting the firewall stamping #'s.