Yes I removed the big nut in the center. I don't see any holes for using a puller. I put a 2 x 4 behind the steering wheel and next to the column and hit the 2 x 4 with a hammer a few times and had no luck. Should I use a bigger hammer ir is there a better way?

 

Using puller worked on my 50 F1.

Tom

 

All the usual tricks; penetrant soak, wiggle the wheel as much as you can, trying to **** it and also rotating it against the free play , anything to loosen the splines. Then a few whacks with a rubber mallet against the backside. I was afraid of using a puller against the plastic, seems a sure way to crack off a chunk.

 

The puller used is like a "c" clamp with 2 rods on the end, similar to a tunning fork, the rods had rubber around them to protect the wheel. Sometimes, if you put the nut on even with the shaft, pull up on the wheel and have a trusted friend hit the end of the shaft with a brass or lead hammer. The nut on the shaft will help to keep from messing up the threads, and keep you from hitting the back window when the wheel comes loose.

 

I drilled and tapped the metal washer area and used the standard two bolt wheel puller. took about 20 minutes from start to finish.
That was after several days of trying everything else.

 

The center part is all metal? I have a taps and a drill if need be I will lube it up and see if it comes loose tommorrow if not I will drill it.

 

With the nut off and the horn bucket out of the way you may or may not see two tapped holes. Ford seems to have drilled and tapped some and not others. As 4tl8ford says, on the flat area close to the hub drill and tap two holes in the steel support. I use a harmonic balance puller when I need to yank my wheel.

 

I have used the wheel pullers mentioned above. I have also found that some trucks have the holes, other don't. I have also found holes that were filled with crud that hid the holes, I just poked around until I found them. One more bit of advice, use a large headed bolt with a shaft that will fit into the center of the steering shaft to protect the threads as you push off with the puller. After a couple of turns of the puller the wheel should pop right off.

 

I put a bearing separator around the column and used a gear puller on that
I know this post is old just posting to help others who are struggling getting theirs off now

 

My 48 didn't come with holes either. As others have said, some came with the holes and some didn't. I had to beat my wheel off with a BFH. It wasn't any good anyway...

 

I also had to drill and tap the hub to get my steering wheel off .

 

My 1950 f1 didn't have the holes either thats why I had 2 us a bearing separator and a gear puller. It came off without damaging the wheel to bad.