V10 stalling
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
The fuel pump power relay is soldered to the bottom of the fuse box.
The fuse box can be removed and the relay replaced.
Also, there are ways to rewire the circuit to utilize an external/replaceable relay without removing the CJB.
The "short in the fuse box" that tstory was talking about 2 months ago sounds like a generic "it's broken" diagnosis by the dealer.
If the fuel pump power relay goes bad it's probably because the relay contacts are corroded to the point enough current can't flow thru it.
The OEM relay is rated 20A and I think the current drawn by the fuel (.8 ohm load) is 15A.
I used a 40A rated relay when I rewired my circuit to use an external relay.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 295
Likes: 1
From: Brandon, Mississippi
I had the same problem, stalling at random would usually start right back up but sometimes took up to 2 hours before it would start. No codes would be thrown and stumped many mechanics. Had planned on having the fuel relay fixed by the guy on Ebay but found an almost identical excursion being parted out locally so I bought his central junction box and have not had any problems since.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Replacing the CJB with a used one just brings in used relays.
Monitoring the voltage at the Inertia Switch is the easiest point to see if the problem is electrical before or after the Inertia Switch.
Before the Inertia Switch it would most likely be the fuel pump relay.
After the Inertia Switch the issue could be a loose connector, corroded wiring, broken wire, short to ground.
If power is good to the pump and the pressure is low at the fuel rail test port the pump is probably going or the filter is clogged.
The pressure at the fuel rail test port could be good, but if there is a clog the pressure could drop while running.
Tapping the fuel tank can sometimes shake a sticking fuel pump enough to get it started.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 295
Likes: 1
From: Brandon, Mississippi
I can be going 15 or 70 and it will die. It won't crank going down the road if I put it in neutral but if I stop and put it in park it will crank. Sometimes I can go 50-100 miles before it does it and sometimes I can go 3 miles and it does it.
There just seems to be no rhyme or reason when it happens.
There just seems to be no rhyme or reason when it happens.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 42
Likes: 3
Stalling FIXED!
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Denver, Colorado
I can be going 15 or 70 and it will die. It won't crank going down the road if I put it in neutral but if I stop and put it in park it will crank. Sometimes I can go 50-100 miles before it does it and sometimes I can go 3 miles and it does it.
There just seems to be no rhyme or reason when it happens.
There just seems to be no rhyme or reason when it happens.
2004 EXCURSION / F 250 - 550 SUPER DUTY FUSE BOX BCM "REPAIR SERVICE"
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F272619667264
I still may send my old box to him to have a spare.
New User
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Ford V10 random stalling issue
I have been having the stall issue for about a year. 2004 excursion 6.8l 225,000 miles. It is the craziest thing, driving 70 miles an hour on the highway and it just dies. It won't restart in neutral while rolling but if i pull over to the side of the road and put it in park it will start right up. The last time it happened was 5 months ago and then twice yesterday. Nothing common in the different instances and i have no way to replicate it.
From my research on this forum and the great google, it seems that the throttle positioning sensor and crankshaft positioning sensor are two common reasons that this could happen. one post i read was about the crankshaft positioning sensor would fail when it got hot and would work when the temperature dropped.
If anyone has any other ideas or input i would gladly appreciate it.
Thanks
From my research on this forum and the great google, it seems that the throttle positioning sensor and crankshaft positioning sensor are two common reasons that this could happen. one post i read was about the crankshaft positioning sensor would fail when it got hot and would work when the temperature dropped.
If anyone has any other ideas or input i would gladly appreciate it.
Thanks
2002 Ford 250
225.000 miles
V10
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 42
Likes: 3
I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, Throttle Position Sensor, Cam Position Sensor, and Crank Position sensor before I had the fuse box/fuel pump relay rebuilt for $129 which solved the problem. I wish someone would have stressed to TRY THAT FIRST! You're Welcome! 
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