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Yout Ex gets its VSS (Variable Speed Signal) from the rear differential tone wheel and pickup. The actual sensor in on the front outside of the differential. This signal goes first to the ABS (anti lock brakes) computer where it is then sent to the PCM and is uses by a LOT of sub-systems. It can cause erratic Torque Converter lock up phase, that will cause OD light to blink and sometims also set a code and maybe illuminate the CEL. The fact that yours is intermittent suggests a loose connector or dirty pickup. Cheap to replace and free to check and clean.
This site never ceases to amaze me! Thanks Fredvon4. This advice links a number of ramblings each individual tech has told me. I'll be under the truck within the hour, contact cleaners and sealers in hand...Cheers...GeoQwest
Geoqwest, did cleaning or replacing the rear speed sensor fix the problem, my wifes excursion is doing the same thing and the dealer cannot figure it out. Weve replaced the speed sensors in the trans and transfer case but is still doing it. We have also replaced the IAC, I am staring to get frustrated with it.
Okay, guys, listen up. In the first couple thousand miles my '05 V10 died a half dozen times. Now until I finish building the boat that I bought this truck to tow, I drive a very, very restricted path to work and back. The truck ALWAYS died when slightly uphill, and in an intersection, because that was when I took my foot off the gas. (By the way, I do have a manual).
The last time this happened (you lose power steering), I almost hit a guy in an adjacent lane, so I took it in and the dealership fixed it right away, saying there was a TSB out on it.
First, they reflashed the computer ( I doubt that fixed anything), but then they noticed it would still not idle rock solid - it would fluctuate - so they also replaced the TPS. This was a month ago and the problem is definitely fixed. They were damn nice about it, and they really wanted to make the problem go away. One hell of a truck.
Never had mine stall in the 10 months I had it. It seems to crank less with the remote starter which puts it into a 5 second delay before the crank starts. I almost always start with the remote because I love to hear the beast come alive from the outside of the truck. It will go into a fairly fast idle when cold but always so quiet and smooth that I find it amazing.
I had it stall once when I was in the Land Between the Lakes area in Ky when the beast had 4K miles on it. Restarted right away. Acted just like someone killed the power to it. No check engine warning light or anything. Hasn't happened since and I have 9K miles including lots of towing.
I have a 1999 F250 V10 and when i first start my truck it stalls right away. but if i hold my foot on the gas it will stay running.
And if i drive it for a bit it will be good again ontill the next morning. Or if i don't start it for a few hours. same thing will happen. Thanks Brad,
Well, Ive had issues with stalling recently too! The gas gauge is all over the place. Acted like it ran out of gas several & added about 2 gal & now the gauge shows half full... I had alot of vacumn built up in tank & it was hard to remove the cap after running it for a few minutes
Now for what I found... I've got a blockage or a runaway valve that was actually collapsing my tank. I took an old gas cap & drilled some holes so there would be no vacumn and what do ya know... Gas gauge works fine & no more stalling.
Any ideas on where to look first would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
How long did you run it like that. I have noticed my gas gauge all over the place too. with the price of gas here in Ontario have not don't fill it up all the way just $50.00 at a time.
Thanks Brad,
The gas gauge issue went on for over a year and got proggressively worse. Also noticed a loss of power going up hills from time to time.. when tank was low. In retrospect, it all started after the emission station made me buy a new gas cap. And I've never had it throw a code... Have to have it tested again in December, so hopefully I'll get off my backside & find the issue by then.
You may have a bad fuel level sending unit or bad fuel tank pressure sensor. It's messing with your EVAP system.
I think every now and then when your PCM tries to perform a leak test, it opens your vapor management valve that allows your intake to draw the needed vacuum. If the pressure sensor is bad, it won't tell the PCM when to close the valve to stop drawing additional vacuum, hence making your fuel pump work much harder until you starve the engine of fuel and stall. This probably happens every now and then because the PCM performs this test every now and then.
I think this is what's going on.
Does the stalling happen more often with a full tank of gas? You have less headspace and you reach full vacuum quicker. A bad fuel level sending unit could tell the PCM to draw a longer vacuum because it thinks there is more headspace than there really is.