Power windows
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
this is the best stuff i've found here in the rain and rust Pac. NW for the Aero in the door window guide tracks, levers and pivots inside the door.
Liquid Wrench Industrial Chain Lube *15 Oz. *contains Molybdenum Disulfide
LIQUID WRENCH INDUSTRIAL CHAIN LUBE L716 RADIATOR SPECIALTY CO.
have to take the interior panel off and reach through the holes to spray the tracks, motor gears and pivots.
never hardens like some of the spray greases do.
i use the good ole silicone spray that all the others recommend for the fuzz guides on the side of the glass, dirt and dust collect in these and increase the friction. high pressure washer never hurt anything on these.
Liquid Wrench Industrial Chain Lube *15 Oz. *contains Molybdenum Disulfide
LIQUID WRENCH INDUSTRIAL CHAIN LUBE L716 RADIATOR SPECIALTY CO.
have to take the interior panel off and reach through the holes to spray the tracks, motor gears and pivots.
never hardens like some of the spray greases do.
i use the good ole silicone spray that all the others recommend for the fuzz guides on the side of the glass, dirt and dust collect in these and increase the friction. high pressure washer never hurt anything on these.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
***Update***
Well, today I took off my panels and sprayed down all the pivots and track and motor gear. I saw a noticeable improvement on both passenger and driver side but the motors are struggling to push the window up. I'm pretty sure the problem is that the arm and pivots are completely surface rusted and the silicone will have to work its way in there over time.
I took advantage of today to rewire some broken wires in my door. It turns out the reason my driver side lock actuator wasn't working was because the Pink with black stripe and White with blue stripe and the solid Black wire were ALL snapped; and the reason all locks would only lock/unlock when the drivers door was closed was because the Black with gray stripe wire was frayed. It was fairly easy to access the wires, but feeding the wires through the grommet was a pain and I feared that if i forced to hard I would cut more dry rotted wires. What made it easier was to spray some silicone in the grommet. I used 12gauge wire for all wires except the White with blue stripe wire.
I took advantage of today to rewire some broken wires in my door. It turns out the reason my driver side lock actuator wasn't working was because the Pink with black stripe and White with blue stripe and the solid Black wire were ALL snapped; and the reason all locks would only lock/unlock when the drivers door was closed was because the Black with gray stripe wire was frayed. It was fairly easy to access the wires, but feeding the wires through the grommet was a pain and I feared that if i forced to hard I would cut more dry rotted wires. What made it easier was to spray some silicone in the grommet. I used 12gauge wire for all wires except the White with blue stripe wire.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 835
Likes: 0
It sounded like the regulator to me from the start - but all good tips on lubing the fuzz guides at the bottom...
I had a regulator rust on me at one of the joints - I just rebuilt the one I had I think, and it's been fine since...
One thing on the motors - there were 2 models of motors for these - the older style used the round style, and imho, better... except they would always take on water, so ford then went to the smaller "flat" motors...
I have used both over the years, and the flat ones are ok, but barely roll up the pass side window, esp with the engine off... the drivers side, has a the round one, and is fast, and never fails to roll up fast...
one other wiring weak spot is the spot in the door where all the harness goes through the rubber line... I never could trace where the wire was broken, so, I just have it on a separate 12v line now, and I like to be able to roll the windows up and down with no key... yeah, it's not factory, but it works...
I had a regulator rust on me at one of the joints - I just rebuilt the one I had I think, and it's been fine since...
One thing on the motors - there were 2 models of motors for these - the older style used the round style, and imho, better... except they would always take on water, so ford then went to the smaller "flat" motors...
I have used both over the years, and the flat ones are ok, but barely roll up the pass side window, esp with the engine off... the drivers side, has a the round one, and is fast, and never fails to roll up fast...
one other wiring weak spot is the spot in the door where all the harness goes through the rubber line... I never could trace where the wire was broken, so, I just have it on a separate 12v line now, and I like to be able to roll the windows up and down with no key... yeah, it's not factory, but it works...
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