Compressor Tank Safe?
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From: Chicago Area
Compressor Tank Safe?
I bought a used Sears 2 cylinder belt drive compressor, but now I have some concerns. How can I tell if the storage tank is safe to pressurize? If it has rusted inside, are they designed so they leak before they would "blow"?
The unit seems to be in fairly good condition, but it is painted metallic green, which I don't think Sears has done for many years. And, I have no idea how it has been used, or if the tank has been properly drained. I had planned to mount it in my basement, where my family and I could easily be exposed. Maybe I should mount it outside where we would be less likely to be hit if anything went wrong.
Any comments or recommendations would be appreciated.
The unit seems to be in fairly good condition, but it is painted metallic green, which I don't think Sears has done for many years. And, I have no idea how it has been used, or if the tank has been properly drained. I had planned to mount it in my basement, where my family and I could easily be exposed. Maybe I should mount it outside where we would be less likely to be hit if anything went wrong.
Any comments or recommendations would be appreciated.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Marple Township, PA
You could bring the tank to a fire extinguisher certification service...they do hydrostatic tests of pressurized cylinders. They may even be able to use a boroscope to peer inside and see if there is any rust developing.
If you REALLY wanted to go overboard, find an NDT shop (non-destructive testing) and get it x-rayed or tested by eddy-current.
In PA, compressor tanks over a certain size are required to be registered w/ the state and subject to periodic inspections. A 50-gal vessel with 175 psi can be an accident waiting to happen, that's why you should do what you can to ensure its integrity.
In addition to my 20-gal single stage comp, I have a 2-gal air tote. They don't even bother testing them...after 10 years from mfr date, you're supposed to just throw them away!!
Good luck!
If you REALLY wanted to go overboard, find an NDT shop (non-destructive testing) and get it x-rayed or tested by eddy-current.
In PA, compressor tanks over a certain size are required to be registered w/ the state and subject to periodic inspections. A 50-gal vessel with 175 psi can be an accident waiting to happen, that's why you should do what you can to ensure its integrity.
In addition to my 20-gal single stage comp, I have a 2-gal air tote. They don't even bother testing them...after 10 years from mfr date, you're supposed to just throw them away!!
Good luck!
Last edited by DonsFx4; Mar 14, 2005 at 11:23 AM.
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Thanks for the response. I'm pretty sure that I'd spend more testing it than it'd be worth, but as it's pretty well integrated with the compressor, I'll have to see if its feasible to replace. I guess I could just bypass it and leave the tank sit there.
It would seem that they could build them such that they would fail by leaking before the ends would blow off or the seam split, but I don't know if that is done.
I think I'm just going to run a pipe in from outside and run the compressor where, if the tank end blew off or something, it wouldn't hit anybody. Quieter inside too.
It would seem that they could build them such that they would fail by leaking before the ends would blow off or the seam split, but I don't know if that is done.
I think I'm just going to run a pipe in from outside and run the compressor where, if the tank end blew off or something, it wouldn't hit anybody. Quieter inside too.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Elkhart IN
well you could fill the tank up with water and then turn the comp. on and let it run as high as it will go. with water in the tank it wont "explode" it will just blow water out if it develops a leak. just a thought
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From: Sapulpa OK
You could probably rent an electronic thickness gauge to test the thickness of the metal. Thats the easiest way I know of. Generally speaking the corrosion allowance in most receivers is enough to allow the vessel to be used 10 years minimum and I see many vessels in service after 40 years. Any corrosion inside would result in a pin hole leak and would not result in a catastrophic rupture.
you can do your own hydrostat if you want to. All you need is a grease gun and a gauge capable of reading 1.5 times your max allowable working pressure listed on your tank data plate.
Simply remove all devices from the tank, all you want is a bare tank. Plug all openings but a gauge port. tip the tank on end so one head is up and fill with water completely. Be sure there is no air trepped in the tank because air will compress and then expand rapidly if the tank should burst. Water will not compress so there will be no expansion if the tank should burst.
Attach a grease gun to that end of the tank and use the grease pressure to pump the tank up to the specified level and check for leaks. Be careful, a grease gun will easily pump 3000 psi so keep an eye on your test gauge.
you can do your own hydrostat if you want to. All you need is a grease gun and a gauge capable of reading 1.5 times your max allowable working pressure listed on your tank data plate.
Simply remove all devices from the tank, all you want is a bare tank. Plug all openings but a gauge port. tip the tank on end so one head is up and fill with water completely. Be sure there is no air trepped in the tank because air will compress and then expand rapidly if the tank should burst. Water will not compress so there will be no expansion if the tank should burst.
Attach a grease gun to that end of the tank and use the grease pressure to pump the tank up to the specified level and check for leaks. Be careful, a grease gun will easily pump 3000 psi so keep an eye on your test gauge.
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Thanks very much! Your statement that corrosion would "result in a pin hole leak and would not result in a catastrophic rupture" is what I was expecting, but I did feel the need for some confirmation.
Good idea on the homemade hydrostatic test! I'm going to run that just to be sure. I still think I'm going to put the compressor outside my basement. I have a switched 230v outlet there, and I like the idea of getting the noise outside. I'll hook a flexible section to the compressor and then run galvanized pipe into the basement and over to my work shop, and (future) attached garage.
I suppose this will increase the condensation problem in summertime, but I will be running a drain leg at the end of the line inside and I think I can handle that. I may also put an automatic drain on the tank outside (maybe that's a freeze problem so I should just do it manually?). I will also shield the controls and intake to some extent. Any other comments or recommendations on this set-up?
Thanks again to all.
Good idea on the homemade hydrostatic test! I'm going to run that just to be sure. I still think I'm going to put the compressor outside my basement. I have a switched 230v outlet there, and I like the idea of getting the noise outside. I'll hook a flexible section to the compressor and then run galvanized pipe into the basement and over to my work shop, and (future) attached garage.
I suppose this will increase the condensation problem in summertime, but I will be running a drain leg at the end of the line inside and I think I can handle that. I may also put an automatic drain on the tank outside (maybe that's a freeze problem so I should just do it manually?). I will also shield the controls and intake to some extent. Any other comments or recommendations on this set-up?
Thanks again to all.
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Just my experience, but I had a compressor tank go bad. What happend was a small pinhole leak in the lowest portion of the tank where the water would collect. Initially the the tank wouldn't hold pressure for long, and I diddn't reallized what happened till I heard the hissing.
BTW standard propane tanks are rated @ 150 lbs +, I believe. Thats where the POL relief valve is activated. You could utilize this cheap and available alternative air storage container with a few pipe and tank fittings .
BTW standard propane tanks are rated @ 150 lbs +, I believe. Thats where the POL relief valve is activated. You could utilize this cheap and available alternative air storage container with a few pipe and tank fittings .
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From: MI
Originally Posted by MrBSS
I'll hook a flexible section to the compressor and then run galvanized pipe into the basement and over to my work shop, and (future) attached garage.
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Regarding the use of copper: Is that the concensus for air lines? I think I usually see galvanized, but maybe these are old shops.
Certainly sweating copper is easy, but I have an abrasive chop saw and threading 1/2" pipe isn't too tough. I haven't checked, but I think galvanized is cheaper and although I agree that it still rusts, it's got to last 100 years in this application. I also like the fact that it is less likely to be confused with my (copper) water lines.
Certainly sweating copper is easy, but I have an abrasive chop saw and threading 1/2" pipe isn't too tough. I haven't checked, but I think galvanized is cheaper and although I agree that it still rusts, it's got to last 100 years in this application. I also like the fact that it is less likely to be confused with my (copper) water lines.
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