Smog Devices
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Smog Devices
I have a 66 Ford F100 with a 352 and 3-Speed cruise-o-matic transmission.I am in the process of rebuilding and maiting the rebuild to a C-6. My truck has a couple of smog devices that I feel are of a questionable nature, as to there ability to work as advertised. 1. The smog pump with its associated check valves and tubing. Do these things really work? (even with new parts). 2. The heat control valve- mine is the butterfly valve between the exhaust manifold and pipe. I understand the exhaust is supposed to be diverted to the carburetor base and then down to the opposite exhaust manifold , on its way warming the carb up. Is this done through a port in the intake manifold?, or am I missing parts, as there are no external tubes from the exhaust to carb base. Does this set up preclude me from swapping my 2 barrel intake for a Cobra-Jet 4 barrel intake? Thanks JR
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Central Oregon
For myself I would do away with the smog pump and it's associated tubing and valves, they were not the best working thing in the first place. As for the exhaust I run headers on my 66 4x4, but with a 2wd you need to heat shield the starter. When rebuilding your engine are you using a cam to support the 4 barrel? The stock exhaust is not missing parts, the butterfly putts back presssure though the in-take to the carb. I did not like the way it worked that is why the headers.
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Wait a minute..... Is that a typo? A smog pump on a '66? If that's right then it must be a California truck and at the very least I would keep the smog stuff if I pulled it off. Seems there's a movement in the CA legislature now to repeal the smog exemptions that were passed a while ago. Trying to buy that stuff new if local regs force you to have them is almost impossible.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Near Fresno, California
I just looked at the new law here in California. Starting Aprl 1st, 1975 and older are smog check exempt, 1976 and newer require smog checks to get a license. The rolling 30 year exemption is gone - 1976 and newer will require smog checks forever.
However, 1975 and older are exempt from smog checks as part of getting a license - they are not exempt from meeting smog requirements. You could still receive a fix-it ticket and be required to bring your vehicle to the (when built) manufacturers standards.
It would take a mean cop to lay one on you - but it could happen. In theory, a guy with a 428 in a Model A hot rod could be required to produce no more smog than the original 4 banger that was installed in it in 1930.
I am not a lawyer, and think everyone will leave us pretty much alone - but I also will not push the envelope too far.
However, 1975 and older are exempt from smog checks as part of getting a license - they are not exempt from meeting smog requirements. You could still receive a fix-it ticket and be required to bring your vehicle to the (when built) manufacturers standards.
It would take a mean cop to lay one on you - but it could happen. In theory, a guy with a 428 in a Model A hot rod could be required to produce no more smog than the original 4 banger that was installed in it in 1930.
I am not a lawyer, and think everyone will leave us pretty much alone - but I also will not push the envelope too far.
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So now that they've dropped the 30 year rolling exemption, how long before they change other aspects of that law. I've read an editorial in Mustang Monthly where the author was invited to testify before the state senate on this law change. The legislator moderating the discussion was described as being rude and barely took any testimony from concerned parties. One of the legislators mentioned something to the effect of who in their right minds would collect a 70's model auto?
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Thanks for the responses - Yup the truck is a Calif-built in San Jose acording to the ID tag. But I'm in Idaho, so smogging the truck is not an issue, just don't like yanking factory stuff if it is useful. As far as all that smog legislature goes, if the legislators would pull their heads out of their tailpipes they would just smog vehicles by straight exhaust evaluation and not bother looking under the hood. If it blows clean , it passes ,if it doesn't then you have to take corrective measures , reguardless of the year. That might **** off alot of people, but it would be fairer. Some new cars smoke alot more than my old truck. Cam to support a four barrel! I hadn't even thought of that- Got any sugestions for a stock rebuild 352? Are there any headers out there that allow you to pull the original starter without having to pull the header first? I hate the idea of having to pull the exhaust just to replace a dead starter-should you have to. THANKS AGAIN, JR
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Sun River St. George
I'll wager you have a later model 360 in there. As for the air pump, if you remove it do the job properly and save the pieces. The exhaust manifold heat riser is important especially in Iowa winters. The intake manifold has a passage that routes the exhaust gases from one side to the other. This passage can glog with carbon overr the years and this problem is difficult to diagnose. Usually the engine runns crappy when cold even with the choke set to full. The heat riser closes when the engine is cold and quickly opens after it does its job of forcing hot exhaust gas through the intake warming the intake manifold. This process in very important especially in colder or damp climates. Keep the heat riser if your new manifold has the exhaust gas feature in the casting. Hard starting, poor fuel economy and raw gas washing the oil off your rings are the result of removing the heat riser. Keeping it costs you nothing. If you install headers these problems will be minor compared with the other problems you will get so it doesn't matter. New heat risers are available if yours is stuck or shot.
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Thanks for the info William! Don't know about a later 360,Haven't cleaned the block enough to find or see a casting code! The truck appears to be original though. Carb, Tranny and rear end still have aluminum I.D. tags attached. The seat cover has the same V-emblam as is on the front of the hood embossed on the center of the bench. Sounds like I'll just keep the set-up I have and be content with a stock engine with a little bright stuff on the outside. Hoping to use the C-6 though and not sacrifice too much power. Thanks. JR
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
i had a 360 i pulled which had the air pump holes as for need any of the heat riser stuff its up to you but i don't use it and lots of people don't and it works fine after i put the new engine in my truck i left all that stuff out.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Central Oregon
I have not used a heat riser in my truck sence the 390 and the headers went in it back in 1980. I have had no starting problems and the mileage runs about 15 mpg. This morning 10 degress above 0 no problems.
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