Installing intake manifold
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,038
Likes: 2
From: Spokane WA
Let me know here if yours looks smaller when you put it on, and BTW I didnt have any problems with bolts being too short on an 82 302 block, edelbrock model number 2121......????
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 387
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
OK I got the new intake and Edelbrock performer carb installed. It is the same width as the old stock manifold and it fits easily between the valve covers without taking them off. A couple of annoying details are;
-Have to go spend another $25 for the throttle lever adaptor so my C4 rod will hook up.
-The PCV outlet on the new carb is for a 3/8" hose and my PCV valve is way bigger so I guess I'll have to buy another PCV valve. Are they all the same except for hose fittings?
-Still figuring out how to install the throttle return spring. My old bracket will have to be modified.
-Of course the old steel fuel line won't work. Looks like I'll have to cut it off and run rubber fuel line with hose clamps. The carb come with a hose clamp type fitting. Is there a better way?
-As far as the bolts go I bought 2 1/2" bolts whereas the originals were 2"
-Have to go spend another $25 for the throttle lever adaptor so my C4 rod will hook up.
-The PCV outlet on the new carb is for a 3/8" hose and my PCV valve is way bigger so I guess I'll have to buy another PCV valve. Are they all the same except for hose fittings?
-Still figuring out how to install the throttle return spring. My old bracket will have to be modified.
-Of course the old steel fuel line won't work. Looks like I'll have to cut it off and run rubber fuel line with hose clamps. The carb come with a hose clamp type fitting. Is there a better way?
-As far as the bolts go I bought 2 1/2" bolts whereas the originals were 2"
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 828
Likes: 3
From: Baltimore
I had the same issue as you where the OEM bracket won't work with the new manifold. There is a bolt hole in that manifold behind the carb and I think it was intended for the throttle return spring bracket. I put a long bolt into that hole and set it up so that it sticks up about 1 inch. I also put a jam nut on the bolt so that I could lock the bolt in place. Then, I hooked the throttle return spring to the bolt. This setup works great.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 1
From: Woodruff, SC
Originally Posted by fordxxx
Have to go spend another $25 for the throttle lever adaptor so my C4 rod will hook up.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
I have the same combo on my Ranchero, and can assure you that the throttle linkage adaptor is necessary to install the Edelbrock carb to a Ford. Also, the carb needs a banjo fuel line adaptor. I kludged together a setup with rubber hose, barb, etc. Problem is clearing the air cleaner and choke. A lot cleaner way to plumb in the carb is to use a purpose-made adaptor. I found one from Russell that has the banjo, curved hardline and a filter that lays right along the manifold.
As for the return spring, I made a simple L bracket that is held in place by a manifold bolt.
As for the return spring, I made a simple L bracket that is held in place by a manifold bolt.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 387
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
OK I got the whole thing put together and with a lot of help from this forum it starts and runs and I took it for a short drive. I must admit that I don't notice a huge difference in performance over the 2 barrel. Part of that could be that after I put the dist back in I just tuned it by ear. Need to get my timing light back from the guy I lent it to. What advise do you have on timing?
My carb is the Edelbrock 1404...I can't see in the instruction that there is any way of adjusting when the secondaries open. It is hard to tell, driving it whether the secondaries are opening or not. Any thought on this?
Best idle seemed to be with the idle screws turned out about 1 turn. Does that sound about right?
My carb is the Edelbrock 1404...I can't see in the instruction that there is any way of adjusting when the secondaries open. It is hard to tell, driving it whether the secondaries are opening or not. Any thought on this?
Best idle seemed to be with the idle screws turned out about 1 turn. Does that sound about right?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Icicle
Why is everyone so into selling me something I dont want?
When the Heck am I ever gonna rev a 302 in a pickup to 4000 RPM let alone Mid 7000? Im well past my useable power band by then, not to mention its my wifes truck, she wont be revving it that high
Im concerned about help and tips on installing this thing, not which one to buy, I already bought the one I wanted, and furthermore, I read a 6 page tech article 3 months ago that compared the two in great technical detail, and they are much the same, Im just not into anything Holley, thats all, thanks though
Its on now, but it appers its narrower than the stock one, maybe its just my eyes playing tricks on me. Havent gotten to fire it up yet, still need a few things to hook up the carb correctly (spacer, something to attach the brake booster to vacuum e.t.c.) so project is on hold until I have more $ to throw at it, thanks for all your tips guys.
And PS, the instruction manual says NEVER use the end gaskets with an aluminum manifold.....so I took your advice and just chucked em'
Anyhow, thanks
When the Heck am I ever gonna rev a 302 in a pickup to 4000 RPM let alone Mid 7000? Im well past my useable power band by then, not to mention its my wifes truck, she wont be revving it that high
Im concerned about help and tips on installing this thing, not which one to buy, I already bought the one I wanted, and furthermore, I read a 6 page tech article 3 months ago that compared the two in great technical detail, and they are much the same, Im just not into anything Holley, thats all, thanks though
Its on now, but it appers its narrower than the stock one, maybe its just my eyes playing tricks on me. Havent gotten to fire it up yet, still need a few things to hook up the carb correctly (spacer, something to attach the brake booster to vacuum e.t.c.) so project is on hold until I have more $ to throw at it, thanks for all your tips guys.
And PS, the instruction manual says NEVER use the end gaskets with an aluminum manifold.....so I took your advice and just chucked em'
Anyhow, thanks
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by fordxxx
OK I got the whole thing put together and with a lot of help from this forum it starts and runs and I took it for a short drive. I must admit that I don't notice a huge difference in performance over the 2 barrel. Part of that could be that after I put the dist back in I just tuned it by ear. Need to get my timing light back from the guy I lent it to. What advise do you have on timing?
My carb is the Edelbrock 1404...I can't see in the instruction that there is any way of adjusting when the secondaries open. It is hard to tell, driving it whether the secondaries are opening or not. Any thought on this?
Best idle seemed to be with the idle screws turned out about 1 turn. Does that sound about right?
My carb is the Edelbrock 1404...I can't see in the instruction that there is any way of adjusting when the secondaries open. It is hard to tell, driving it whether the secondaries are opening or not. Any thought on this?
Best idle seemed to be with the idle screws turned out about 1 turn. Does that sound about right?
The only way to adjust the back barrels opening is to drill the weight on the top butterflies. That is usually unneccessary. The most common adjustment needed is power rod, jet, or power rod spring. You can control the amount of vacuum the rears begin to give fuel at by the spring change. This will in effect open the back barrels faster.
Edelbrocks dont have the noticeable back barrel "kick in" that the Holley has. If they are tuned properly, you will not be able to tell the back barrels even opened. They will sound like a big 2 barrel. I'm not nocking Edelbrocks. They are what I use on my street engines. They cant run with Holley on the Drag strip, but all in all, I think they are a better street carb.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 387
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
I am getting a little frustrated and disappointed. The truck starts and runs great for just driving around. Idles nice and smooth etc. But I get no indication that the secondaries are doing anything.
Driving at 50 mph in high gear (about 2000 rpm) and floor it...nothing. I have the kickdown rod disconnected for now but if I shift down to 2nd and floor it I still get nothing. It doesn't miss or anything but seems like the acceleration is less than it was with the old 2 barrel.
Any ideas?!
Driving at 50 mph in high gear (about 2000 rpm) and floor it...nothing. I have the kickdown rod disconnected for now but if I shift down to 2nd and floor it I still get nothing. It doesn't miss or anything but seems like the acceleration is less than it was with the old 2 barrel.
Any ideas?!
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
Is the Edelbrock Carb New? If not, did it set up in storage for a long time with fuel in it?
To see if the back barrels are opening, take the breather off, go to wide open throttle and see if they open.
If you dont want to do that, With the engine off, fully open the throttle. On the back barrels, manually move the control arm that opens the bottom venturis. Push the top venturis Open. If they both open up, they should open when driving.
Like I said in the earlier post, A properly tuned Edelbrock carb does not "kick in" like a Holley. On the Edelbrock, the top venturis travel slower giving a smoother almost seamless transition to full throttle. If an Edelbrock has a distinct "kick in", its too small.
The problem is more than likely in metering rods, jets, or metering rod springs.
When I install an Edelbrock, I use an oxygen sensor. If you use one, you will see how tricky they are. I have never, had one I could run out of the box. They all took major tuneing. Usually out of the box, You can set Idle Ideal. Transition between Idle and cruise is extremely lean, cruise is ideal to slightly rich, and power is super rich.
Plug readings never tell you exactly whats going on with the carb. I reccommend Oxygen sensor tuneing.
To see if the back barrels are opening, take the breather off, go to wide open throttle and see if they open.
If you dont want to do that, With the engine off, fully open the throttle. On the back barrels, manually move the control arm that opens the bottom venturis. Push the top venturis Open. If they both open up, they should open when driving.
Like I said in the earlier post, A properly tuned Edelbrock carb does not "kick in" like a Holley. On the Edelbrock, the top venturis travel slower giving a smoother almost seamless transition to full throttle. If an Edelbrock has a distinct "kick in", its too small.
The problem is more than likely in metering rods, jets, or metering rod springs.
When I install an Edelbrock, I use an oxygen sensor. If you use one, you will see how tricky they are. I have never, had one I could run out of the box. They all took major tuneing. Usually out of the box, You can set Idle Ideal. Transition between Idle and cruise is extremely lean, cruise is ideal to slightly rich, and power is super rich.
Plug readings never tell you exactly whats going on with the carb. I reccommend Oxygen sensor tuneing.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 387
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
Thanks ga302 for the tips. The carb. is a factory rebuilt one so it is like new. I think it just needs some time spent tuning with rods/jets/springs. The trouble is, it is -20ºC and very slippery outside here so there is not much test driving I can do especially at wide open throttle.
There some shops here with chassis dinos and I am going to check on the cost of having them tune the whole thing for maximum performance. Might be money well spent. Or I could wait for spring and try and do it myself. I figure it I make changes and then measure my time from say 50mph to 70mph at WOT on a level stretch of road I should be able to dial it in. How did you do yours?
Thanks
There some shops here with chassis dinos and I am going to check on the cost of having them tune the whole thing for maximum performance. Might be money well spent. Or I could wait for spring and try and do it myself. I figure it I make changes and then measure my time from say 50mph to 70mph at WOT on a level stretch of road I should be able to dial it in. How did you do yours?
Thanks
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
big mark
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Nov 11, 2004 02:32 PM
DrFord
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
2
Jun 2, 2002 09:07 AM
