Installing intake manifold
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Spokane WA
Installing intake manifold
82 f150 in sig......
Any advice on swapping the stock intake manifold off for the Edelbrock performer thats arriving today
Ive never done one before, and a search yielded little.....please tell me I dont have to pull the dizzy.....
Any advice on swapping the stock intake manifold off for the Edelbrock performer thats arriving today
Ive never done one before, and a search yielded little.....please tell me I dont have to pull the dizzy.....
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
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Sad to say, you do. No big deal. Just note the rotor position when you pull it. DON'T drop the bolt down the dist. hole! Don't ask how I know this.
Also, a Ford trick for Windsor manifold installation is to make up 4 studs with 5/16" threaded rod. Screw these into the 4 corner holes, and drop the manifold straight down. Keeps from messing up the gaskets. Also, throw away the rubber end pieces from the gasket set and use a 1/4" bead of RTV silicone instead.
I put sealant on the manifold bolt threads as some of them tap into coolant, IIRC.
Replace the dist, pointing the rotor in the same direstion as before.
Also, a Ford trick for Windsor manifold installation is to make up 4 studs with 5/16" threaded rod. Screw these into the 4 corner holes, and drop the manifold straight down. Keeps from messing up the gaskets. Also, throw away the rubber end pieces from the gasket set and use a 1/4" bead of RTV silicone instead.
I put sealant on the manifold bolt threads as some of them tap into coolant, IIRC.
Replace the dist, pointing the rotor in the same direstion as before.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 828
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From: Baltimore
I put a Performer on my 1973 302 and the original intake manifold bolts were all too short. The Performer was about 1/4 inch thicker than the OEM manifold and that left the original bolts with about 3 threads to hang on with. I went to NAPA and got a longer set of bolts.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: washington!
Biggest points, chuck the cork end gaskets and use silocone (as already mentioned). Get a tap and clean all the bolt hole threads so you get an accurate torque reading, and use good gaskets like the ultraseals for example. I really like the idea of using the longer studs to align the intake too, wish I had thought of that 
Its really not that hard its just a matter of cleaning off your head surfaces well so you get a good seal.
Its really not that hard its just a matter of cleaning off your head surfaces well so you get a good seal.
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Elder User
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This may sound stupid but I use a shop vac to clean the intake ports on the heads after cleaning all of the old gaskets off and get ready to put the new intake on. You never know what could fall down into the engine so remember to use caution when doing the intake swap.
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Junior User
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From: washington!
Thats not stupid at all man, infact I do the same thing (and plug the intake ports with paper towels while power-ripping the old gaskets and giving the motor the customary brakeclean bath). Its always better to be on the safe side 
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Spokane WA
Great advice from all thanks. I'm gonna ditch all the egr stuff tomorrow too while Im doing it, any general advice on what I may run into as far as thats concerned? basically anything that runs to the air cleaner assembly is going bye bye and a new chrome hat with a KN filter is going on, cleans up the engine bay and makes things look a little meaner
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Spokane WA
do the valve covers need to come off? its all loose, and isnt budging....
edit, nevermind, its loose, but now lines that go from egr to back of heads is in the way
edit, nevermind, its loose, but now lines that go from egr to back of heads is in the way
Last edited by Icicle; Dec 24, 2004 at 02:16 PM.
Elder User
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You do not have to pull the distributor. The easiest way to put the gaskets on is to glue them to the block. I Use 3M clear adhesive. Let it dry about 20 minutes, them put the intake on and torque it down. If you let it completely dry before you torque the manifold, the gaskets will leak. The advice given earlier about throwing the rubber pieces away and using silicone will work; it just looks shade tree. Take the extra 2 minutes and put the rubber end pieces on. They only require a small dab of silicone in the area they meet the intake gaskets. I glue them to the block also.
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Originally Posted by mako5972
You do not need to pull the dizzy to change the intake. I would have gone with a Weiand Stealth.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Spokane WA
Originally Posted by ga302p
The weiand stealth is a much better manifold than the Edelbrock performer. The performer is dead at 6200 rpm. The stealth is good to mid 7000. The stealth is also as strong as the performer off idle.
When the Heck am I ever gonna rev a 302 in a pickup to 4000 RPM let alone Mid 7000? Im well past my useable power band by then, not to mention its my wifes truck, she wont be revving it that high
Im concerned about help and tips on installing this thing, not which one to buy, I already bought the one I wanted, and furthermore, I read a 6 page tech article 3 months ago that compared the two in great technical detail, and they are much the same, Im just not into anything Holley, thats all, thanks though
Its on now, but it appers its narrower than the stock one, maybe its just my eyes playing tricks on me. Havent gotten to fire it up yet, still need a few things to hook up the carb correctly (spacer, something to attach the brake booster to vacuum e.t.c.) so project is on hold until I have more $ to throw at it, thanks for all your tips guys.
And PS, the instruction manual says NEVER use the end gaskets with an aluminum manifold.....so I took your advice and just chucked em'
Anyhow, thanks
Last edited by Icicle; Dec 24, 2004 at 10:17 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Calgary
I just got a new Edelbrock Performer 289 manifold for Christmas and am already installing it. I have the old one off and all the surfaces cleaned up. Like somebody said the old bolts are about 1/4" too short. Is there anything special about those bolts? I just went to the hardware store and bought stainless steel bolts and flat washers. I figure I should put flat washers between the bolts and the aluminum. Any comments would be welcome.
Thanks
Thanks