Leaking Fuel
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by PolarBearKing
I finally had to do it, only problem is, is that I still have a leak.
I took my time and made sure everything was put back together snug.
If it makes any difference, my gaskets where not flat, cracked or torn.
Any other suggestions?
I took my time and made sure everything was put back together snug.
If it makes any difference, my gaskets where not flat, cracked or torn.
Any other suggestions?
It required that I buy the whole housing assembly because the one that was on my truck was warped enough to relax the pressure on the o-rings. The new one is tight enought to where I can hardly move the lever, even with some lube on the o-rings.
The ones that came out of the old housing were still fresh and round, but the housing wasn't holding them tight enough to make a good seal.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by barebackjake
i had to replace the drain on my 2000 it was $35
it was squirting down into the engine valley
it was squirting down into the engine valley
Beth
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: Buckenderra
cool dudes i thought the leak on mine was coming from that yellow thingy when you guys say you turn it a few times which way. do you grab hold of the flag bit on to and push it towards the centre of the engine bay cause when i played with mine it seemed realy tight i wasnt even sure if it did move and i didnt want to break it, but now i know it moves i think ill give it a shot at moving it tommorrow, and get some new seals to
thanks guys this forum rocks
thanks guys this forum rocks
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
I had a fuel leak that was puddling fuel in the engine well under the fuel filter. Thanks to this forum, I not only got the short version of what was causing the problem but also how to fix it on the cheap.
I just got done doing the o-ring replacement on my 02 7.3 250. Total cost: $6.00 and 30 minutes under the hood.
I owe my buddy that directed me here a beer, and many thanks to those who know what they are doing who contribute here. You saved me from having to pay way too much for parts I didn't need, and from paying someone else way too much in shop fees.
Next up: Getting rid of the stock exhaust.
I just got done doing the o-ring replacement on my 02 7.3 250. Total cost: $6.00 and 30 minutes under the hood.
I owe my buddy that directed me here a beer, and many thanks to those who know what they are doing who contribute here. You saved me from having to pay way too much for parts I didn't need, and from paying someone else way too much in shop fees.
Next up: Getting rid of the stock exhaust.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
Likes: 11
From: Rochdale MA
I had a fuel leak that was puddling fuel in the engine well under the fuel filter. Thanks to this forum, I not only got the short version of what was causing the problem but also how to fix it on the cheap.
I just got done doing the o-ring replacement on my 02 7.3 250. Total cost: $6.00 and 30 minutes under the hood.
I owe my buddy that directed me here a beer, and many thanks to those who know what they are doing who contribute here. You saved me from having to pay way too much for parts I didn't need, and from paying someone else way too much in shop fees.
Next up: Getting rid of the stock exhaust.
I just got done doing the o-ring replacement on my 02 7.3 250. Total cost: $6.00 and 30 minutes under the hood.
I owe my buddy that directed me here a beer, and many thanks to those who know what they are doing who contribute here. You saved me from having to pay way too much for parts I didn't need, and from paying someone else way too much in shop fees.
Next up: Getting rid of the stock exhaust.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Credit goes to "TMIB" for that one. He's helped me out a couple of times now with small stuff, including getting my canopy brake lights hooked up correctly and figuring out the 7/4 plug wiring so that my camper and trailer were wired right.
For the record, it was pretty obvious once I got the housing removed for this drain that the OEM seals were shot... totally flat on one side, and starting to get brittle.
Should any of you be contemplating this fix in the next month or so, ping me and I'll gladly just outright send to you a set of the o-rings since I have about 10 spare sets right at the moment.
For the record, it was pretty obvious once I got the housing removed for this drain that the OEM seals were shot... totally flat on one side, and starting to get brittle.
Should any of you be contemplating this fix in the next month or so, ping me and I'll gladly just outright send to you a set of the o-rings since I have about 10 spare sets right at the moment.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
Likes: 11
From: Rochdale MA
Credit goes to "TMIB" for that one. He's helped me out a couple of times now with small stuff, including getting my canopy brake lights hooked up correctly and figuring out the 7/4 plug wiring so that my camper and trailer were wired right.
For the record, it was pretty obvious once I got the housing removed for this drain that the OEM seals were shot... totally flat on one side, and starting to get brittle.
Should any of you be contemplating this fix in the next month or so, ping me and I'll gladly just outright send to you a set of the o-rings since I have about 10 spare sets right at the moment.
For the record, it was pretty obvious once I got the housing removed for this drain that the OEM seals were shot... totally flat on one side, and starting to get brittle.
Should any of you be contemplating this fix in the next month or so, ping me and I'll gladly just outright send to you a set of the o-rings since I have about 10 spare sets right at the moment.
New User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Help!!!!!!!!!
Still leaking like a sive(sp?). Got the new housing and rings in, but is still leaking, running, out. Could I have not gotten it tight enough? Or could something else be warped or loose?
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Take it out and check the sealing surface for flatness. If you don't have a flat surface, use a straight edge ruler. It may be warped beyond repair but there may be a burr that would go away with a couple of swipes on sandpaper. If it's beyond repair, buy a whole new valve. Some have had to do that.
Put it back on to see if it still leaks. Try to locate the leak, whether from the rotating valve or from the body itself.
Let us know.
Jim.
Put it back on to see if it still leaks. Try to locate the leak, whether from the rotating valve or from the body itself.
Let us know.
Jim.
New User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
valve drain leak
We replaced the whole valve, yellow lever, and o-rings are on the valve. Am thinking I didn't clean the old surface of the filter housing good enough. Also had to go buy a 1/4" ratchet so that I didn't have to squeeze in there with an adapter on the 3/8". So will be able to attack it better monday. Will disassembleclean and put back together then go from there. 
New User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
still leaking. not as bad, but still bad
is dripping while running, BUT when shut off it really comes out in a stream. could the filter housing be warped or damaged? also the metal hose that attaches to the drain by a rubber? hose seems loose. is it possible for the hose to be bad? it seems mushy and not tight.
desperate. just want to be able to sell my truck without the leak.
Any takers with the leak?
desperate. just want to be able to sell my truck without the leak. Any takers with the leak?
New User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
This is actually a pretty straightforward fix-it-yourself project. It should take you about an hour after you get the parts and proper tools.
Before you change anything, turn on your key to pressurize the system. Locate the small, yellow-handled fuel filter water drain valve on the firewall side of the fuel filter. Exercise this valve a half dozen times. Maybe you'll get lucky and blow out the cause of the leak. Otherwise:
You need:
1. A #20 Torx driver socket for 1/4 inch drive.
2. A 1/4 inch ratchet
3. From Home Depot's plumbing department, two #90 Danco o-rings. If you don't have a H-D local to you, they're 1/2" od, 1/4" id, 1/8" material, available from most hardware stores.
Optional: Proper size socket and ratchet for removing the "Powerstroke" plastic cover from the top-front of your engine.
For ease, remove the "Powerstroke" cover.
Locate that yellow valve handle at the side closest to the firewall. This is the drain valve. Remember how the pieces are oriented for later re-assembly. Better yet, take a digital picture. There are four #20 Torx screws holding the valve to the filter body. Using the driver socket and ratchet, remove the four screws. Using a toothpick, pry the two little yellow o-rings out of where they fit. Replace them with the two you bought. Lube the threads on the four screws. Re-assemble and check for leaks. Replace the Powerstroke cover.
Dat's all, folks.
SpringerPop
Before you change anything, turn on your key to pressurize the system. Locate the small, yellow-handled fuel filter water drain valve on the firewall side of the fuel filter. Exercise this valve a half dozen times. Maybe you'll get lucky and blow out the cause of the leak. Otherwise:
You need:
1. A #20 Torx driver socket for 1/4 inch drive.
2. A 1/4 inch ratchet
3. From Home Depot's plumbing department, two #90 Danco o-rings. If you don't have a H-D local to you, they're 1/2" od, 1/4" id, 1/8" material, available from most hardware stores.
Optional: Proper size socket and ratchet for removing the "Powerstroke" plastic cover from the top-front of your engine.
For ease, remove the "Powerstroke" cover.
Locate that yellow valve handle at the side closest to the firewall. This is the drain valve. Remember how the pieces are oriented for later re-assembly. Better yet, take a digital picture. There are four #20 Torx screws holding the valve to the filter body. Using the driver socket and ratchet, remove the four screws. Using a toothpick, pry the two little yellow o-rings out of where they fit. Replace them with the two you bought. Lube the threads on the four screws. Re-assemble and check for leaks. Replace the Powerstroke cover.
Dat's all, folks.
SpringerPop
The O-Rings that are in my Drain Valve Assembly are GREEN not YELLOW.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 1
From: Morehead, Ky.
I was having a leak problem at home. Could not find where it was coming from.
I thought it was coolant.
Anyway, in this frigid weather in Bay City Texas, it let loose yesterday morning and poured the fuel.
I am away from home so I went to Bay City Auto Repair and they have ordered a new valve and will install it today. About $ 120.00 installed. I wish I had found the problem before I left home. I could have fixed it myself. Weather too cold here in Bay City to fool with it.
Thanks to all the post on here, I was able to walk in to the shop and say, this is what I think is wrong. Thanks Guy's Jim
I thought it was coolant.
Anyway, in this frigid weather in Bay City Texas, it let loose yesterday morning and poured the fuel.
I am away from home so I went to Bay City Auto Repair and they have ordered a new valve and will install it today. About $ 120.00 installed. I wish I had found the problem before I left home. I could have fixed it myself. Weather too cold here in Bay City to fool with it.
Thanks to all the post on here, I was able to walk in to the shop and say, this is what I think is wrong. Thanks Guy's Jim
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
I am amending my text from Post #11 in this thread, quoted in its entirety in Post #58 above.
A lot's happened since that post back in 2004.
Your source for o-rings is no longer Home Depot, but DieselORings.com
Almost the best six bucks you'll spend on your truck's reliability.
Pop
A lot's happened since that post back in 2004.
Your source for o-rings is no longer Home Depot, but DieselORings.com
Almost the best six bucks you'll spend on your truck's reliability.
Pop
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