I have seen a plethra of E4OD problem threads popping up lately. I hope that this thread will help guide those with issues through the diagnostic and maybe even the repair process. Hopefully this can save some of you some time, money, and frustration.

The E4OD serves it's purpose but it's purpose is not high mileage use in a Bronco nor offroad use. The E4OD is an electronically controlled transmission, that like many A/T's, does NOT like heat. Read on and find your specific issue.

I encourage those familiar with the E4OD to help me by providing your information, experiences, and providing and correcting information in this thread.

This is in no way the end-all be all of transmission diagnosis. This is only a means of helping you to diagnose your own transmission. If you feel that something has lead you to a dead end, post. This is in no way a replacement for a QUALITY transmission shop (read: NOT AAMCO!). I am not a mechanic nor am I a transmission specialist. I am merely someone who has dealt with my own E4OD problems and am trying to apply that in order to help others. Read on at your own risk

Step 1:

So you've encountered a problem. Let's start by using the KISS method. Check your transmission fluid. To do this ensure that the truck is in park, running, and on level ground. If the fluid is low, top is off. DO NOT OVERFILL YOUR TRANSMISSION. This will cause the fluid to froth and will be as bad as not having enough fluid.

You want to also make sure that the fluid is a nice bright red and does not have a burnt odor. If it is dark or has a strong burnt order, change your fluid, filter, and pan gasket.

Doing this is very simple. Drain the pan, drop the pan, pull old filter out, install new filter, reinstall filter, gasket, and pan. Refill with fluid. Remember, your transmission is running between 150 and 200*F. The fluid is sitting in a pan and does not quickly dissapate heat. Let your transmission cool before working on it.

"My transmission doesn't have a drain plug". You have only one option this time. Crack the pan and drain it. Ford offers a pan with a drain plug and you can search for writeups on drain plug installation.

Here is the P/N for the Ford pan w/ the drain plug F81Z 7A194 BA

Step 2:

Pull codes! Here is a writeup on how to pull codes:

Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test

Here are what the codes mean

Ford Fuel Injection 3 Digit Self-test Codes 111-171

From here you can pretty much diagnose any issue that you can imagine. The EEC-IV is good at helping us determine what is acting up in our vehicles. Most times it will come down to a bad sensor, solenoid pack, etc. We'll get back to these later.

I got one of the following codes. What do I do?

121, 122, 123, 167

You have a problem with your TPS. At this point you can either further diagnose that issue or replace the TPS.

566, 617, 618, 619, 621, 622, 626, 627, 629, 641

Your solenoid pack is affected. You either have a bad solenoid pack or a problem in the harness or connectors. A new solenoid pack can be purchased from Ford. Here is a thread with some good solenoid pack info

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...1008&highlight

634, 654, 667, 668, 675,

636, 637, 638, 657

This was caused by either a faulty TOT (Transmission Over Temperature) sensor, a bad connector or harness, or the transmission was overheated.


Step 3:

The newest Bronco is, at this point, 12 years old. Connectors get dirty, the break, and wires get brittle. You may find that you are having a transmission problem and that it is just a dirty connection. So what connectors are there on the E4OD and what do they do?

The connector on the driver's side of the transmission is for the MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor). This tells the transmission what gear you have selected so that it may act accordingly. The connector on the passenger's side of the transmission is the shift solenoid connector.

Pull these connectors and inspect them and the wiring very thoroughly. Get some electric contact cleaner and spray down the connectors on the harness and the transmission thoroughly. After you have done this, be sure to let them dry. Reconnect them and see if your condition approves. Pull codes again and see what you are left with.

Step 4:

VSS and TPS cleaning and adjusting

The VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). Ford Fuel Injection Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)

These work by reading the speed of the tone ring as the teeth pass by the sensor. Your sensor is located on top of the rear differential. It is held on by a bolt. Remove the bolt and pull the sensor. You likely will find that it is covered in metal shavings. Don't panic, this is normal. Wipe the VSS clean and reinstall. The same goes here, inspect the connector and wiring and clean. Pull codes again.

VSS Testing

http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/Counterpoint4_2.pdf

Another sensor that likes to play tricks on the E4OD is the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) Ford Fuel Injection Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

So now you've done all your tests and your transmission is still having issues. I will break down some of the more common issues not including internal hardware failure.

Common Transmission Issues

I'm getting a hard shift from 1st to 2nd

This is called "safe mode" also referred to as limp mode. The transmission is essentially protecting itself from any further damage you may cause. The transmission is forcing itself to shift using pressure rather than the shift solenoids. Be aware that this is normal when there is a problem and you should continue with your diagnosis.

More info on limp mode

http://web.archive.org/web/200402051...c.com/limp.htm

I have a hard/delayed shift into reverse

This is an extremely common problem with the E4OD. The transmission requires a lot of fluid to engage reverse. This takes time and often leads to a very firm shift. Don't worry, you arn't the only one. Do a search and you will find lots of threads regarding the issue.

Here is an article on how to fix it. Be warned, it will require internal modification.

AltoInstruction Book -- AltoUSA.com

I don't have Reverse!

Repeat all the above. Hopefully it is an MLPS but could be an internal problem.

My transmission will not shift into 3rd or 4th but I am not getting any codes

This is a tricky one. It could be many things but if you have been offroading, mudding, or driving through deep water, I recommend you replace your alternator and see if this happens. It is possible that the rectifier circuit went and the alternator is sending a mixed AC/DC signal to the PCM confusing it.


My truck wants to stall when put in reverse

This may or may not be accompanied by irraddic idle and/or codes. If no codes are found pull the IAC (Idle Air Control) sensor and clean/replace as needed.

Here is an IAC cleaning writeup

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...t=IAC+cleaning

Another potential problem is that the transmission filter may have dropped into the pan. This is easy enough to fix. Remove pan, reinstall filter, fill with fluid.

There is a clip made that will help hold the filter in place since from the factory the filter is only held in by the o-ring. Look 3/4 of the way down this page.

E4OD, 4R100 Transmission from PATC, E4OD, 4R100

It looks like this:



There is also a magnet from Ford that works as a filter retainer. p/n F3RZ-7E290-AC

http://web.archive.org/web/200107271...in.asp?num=037

My truck starts off in 4th gear

This can be accompanied by a draining dead battery and a self diagnosis not initiating. This can be caused by the EEC relay.

More info here:

http://web.archive.org/web/200402162...s/bull_125.htm

When I come to a stop my transmission feels like it goes into Neutral

This is likely an issue with your MLPS.

My trucks slips into neutral and then slams into gear whenever it wants

MLPS

My Speedo needle is bouncing

Either an issue with the VSS or the tone ring located in the rear diff. Inspect and replace as necessary.

MLPS INFO

After 94 the MLPS was redisigned with a different connector to keep out water. I recommend buying a new MLPS from Ford. It will require you to repin the harness connector.

FullSizeBronco.com - 78 - 96 Ford Bronco offroad club, forums, tech, installs

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...8&postcount=37

MLPS Testing

http://www.transonline.com/transDige...ers/index.html

MLPS Sensor Values



The Ultimate TPS Thread

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...&highlight=TPS

When I come to a stop my truck lurches. Stalls at lights

Could be an issue with the TCC. Check the and clean the wiring on the solenoid pack connector. Test the MLPS.

Shift Solenoid Testing

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...7918&highlight

My transmission is leaking fluid out the front

One of three conditions has likely happened.

1. The transmission too much fluid and was venting through the front pump

2. The transmission overheated and was venting fluid through the front pump

3. The front pump seal is bad.

Replacing the front pump seal is not involved once the transmission is out. Simply remove the old seal and install the new one. Purchase the seal from Ford. A transmission removal and install thread will be posted further down.

External trans filter, cooler, and thermostat install

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ad.php?t=74305

E4OD Removal and Installation

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ad.php?t=48997

Other Usefull Links

e4od rebuild pictures from trucks photos on webshots

Random transmission parts

E4OD, 4R100 Transmission from PATC, E4OD, 4R100

http://www.oregonperformancetransmis...gory_Code=E4OD

Hard to find transmission parts

http://www.transpartsonline.com/tpfi...PartsType=E4OD

Transmission Parts Rebuild Kits Parts for Coolers - 8000 Parts Online

 

what should i do next, 1990 7.3 e4od tach not woorking =replacr sensor on gear cover--no tach still!,,,, clean off connection on side of trans =clean with eletric spray ,,no help
clean off sensor on rear ==nothing ,,,,,still ony have 2nd& 4th
check fulid ,ok ========what

 

There is another option:

Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 transmission .: Articles

 

Awesome thread. Thank you for this. I should have checked this out earlier. Guess where my truck is right now? Yeah. Aamco. ****. This is the third time in a week I've taken it back in for under-warranty re-repairs for their half-a**ed rebuild. It's the first time I've ever taken my Clyde to a shop. It's also the LAST time I take my truck to a shop. Rep points coming your way, friend.

 

I have a Q. Would the shift solenoid plug on the passenger side cause the trans to not shift in to any gear other then first bypassing reverse and neutral??? I have a thread depicting my problem so if you could look it over an give me a possible diagnosis that would be great. 4R70W problem.

 

Hello, this is a bit of an older post but just wanted to add that the passenger side E40D connector from/to the ECU can get contaminated with ATF/debris as I've read in another post.fficeffice" /><O></O>
<O></O>
This happened to my truck (found after hours of troubleshooting). The truck was in limp mode when I bought it so I gambled and figured that the owner had been told that it needs a new transmission.<O></O>
<O></O>
The truck also had propane installed at one time and the system was removed by cutting the O2, TPS, ACT wires which are spliced into for propane controls.<O></O>
<O></O>
So I drained and inspect the fluid/cut open the trans filter to see that there was no large particle/gear teeth or heavy clutch material debris. Installed new filter/oil.<O></O>
<O></O>
Concentrated on locating faulty wiring, OHM metered between ECU plug and TPS, etc. which is how I found the cut wires. With majority of faults cleared, cleaned debris off of rear differential VSS sensor (Auto Zone lists a transmission located sensor but is actually in the rear diff / ABS sensor).<O></O>
<O></O>
(when in limp mode to get into first so that T.C. does not slip excessively you may have to tighten shift bolts on steering column which are often loose, then pull trans into first to get truck/car moving. Otherwise trans will only do into drive (3rd) with Torque Converter unlocked. Also when in limp mode trans will slam into reverse very harsh which may damage driveline.)<O></O>
<O></O>
Was still in limp mode with majority of codes cleared except for Code 62 * 4/3 or 3/2 pressure switch circuit failed open * (OBD1). Removed passenger/right side trans connector (already replaced neutral safety switch on left, had to update harness plug to improved design which came with switch form Auto Zone), and found connector to be ATF oil soaked and dirty. Sprayed with electrical contact cleaner (harness and trans connector), then blew dry with shop air.<O></O>
<O></O>
Once cleaned the transmission automatically engaged in first and did not slam into reverse, test drive proved trans to be operating correctly.<O></O>
<O></O>
<O></O>
So if your trans is in limp mode or if you've been told that you need a new transmission;<O></O>
<O></O>
· Drain ATF, pull pan<O></O>
· Smell ATF, look for metal<O></O>
· Cut or break open plastic trans filter<O></O>
· Look for black clutch material caked onto filter or metal<O></O>
· Tighten shifter cable/linkage, lubricate everything that moves in steering column when moving shift lever.<O></O>
· Disconnect battery to clear code history<O></O>
· Clear/repair as many codes as possible especially TPS & VSS<O></O>
· Replace neutral safety switch<O></O>
· Clean solenoid connector (right side on E40D)
<O></O>
Write down all codes and improvements with date/time as you go to avoid redundant tests and to have incase you end up at a tranny shop.<O></O>

 

Photos of dirty harness connector, VSS, and checking TPS wiring for resistance in my photo album.

Also photos of E40D wiring harness, and old style neutral sfatey switch.


One day worth of simple checks will save one day of shop labour $$$$$$ .

 

Good post I wish you would have posted this before I took my Bronco to "The Little Shop of Horrors".
I didnt know what to check or look for so I took it in for stalling in reverse. That was over a month ago.
That was fixed but it drove like it was starting in 4th gear "OD" on my way home.. Back to the shop!
They fixed that and now it feels like the parking brake is on when shifted to manual 1, or 2.
So it's back in the shop.

I dont know what to do now other than a complete rebuild. $2400.00

 

You might try taking it to a shop that knows what they are doing.

 

Just came across this form. Please also note that if your "off" light on your shifter for OD is flashing or stays on weather you hit the button or not you most likely have an internal problem with your transmission.

 

If the light stays on all the time it does NOT indicate a transmission problem. That indicates either a short in the wiring to the light, or a problem with the computer.

 

Awesome Thread thanks. I am new to Ford-Trucks forum. I have recently purchase a 91 Ford F250 with the old 460 engine and the E40D tranny 2wd. Now every once and a while in stop and go traffic the transmission while shift hard between all gears and then go away again.. so 3 weeks ago a done the most obvious thing and replaced the ATF Fluid, filter and pan gasket, now this made an immediate change in the shifting and I could do stop and go traffic and the transmission will shift smoothly. Very happy with myself! Yet last weekend I have noticed that the transmission is starting to do it again but very rarely what can be the issue? It's also not every time that I'm driving it that it does it only occasionally. The truck has 230 000 miles on her and still runs like a beaut!

 

Not sure if this thread is dead but my 94 E-250 w/ 6cyl. 4.9 and E40D has been driving me crazy. It lurches at stop lights, it stumbles while accelerating on any sort of uphill incline and the only thing that stops it is to turn the ignition key slightly toward the start position until the ABS light comes on. When I do this she runs like a champ. I have changed most of the sensors, some gaskets, the EGR solenoid and the list goes on. I read that the computer goes into a "bypass" mode when you start the engine and I am thinking that my key turning solution is bypassing whatever the problem is. Then I read this post. When the key is turned while driving (just enough toward start to engage the ABS light) some funny things happen: The speedo, the fan blower, the turn signals stop working. Also the trans will shift hard from first to second. That was my big "light bulb" moment. I think that turning the key causes the trans to go into limp mode. I pulled the solenoid pack connector and it is full of ATF fluid. This may be causing all of my problems. The leak is thru the connector, not the o-ring seal. Im nnot getting any codes but I think that the fluid may be causing a short in trans circuit. I have posted this in the van forum but I haven't gotten the answer so I thought I would post here.

 

Thanks for posting. Yes, this thread was dead. Nobody had posted to it in 9 months.

Did you have a question?

 

I was wondering if the leaking solenoid pack connector could be the cause of my problems?