I hope someone can help me with my problem. First did a search and could not find the same problem I am having. Here goes, on cold mornings I start my truck and let it warm up. I have noticed a pool of diesel has formed on the ground underneath the truck. I checked to see where it is leaking from, no question about it, it is leaking from the drain tube that is attached to the fuel bowl. Could there be a o-ring in the drain valve that constricts in cold weather and allows it to leak. I have checked the tube once the truck warms up to operating temperature and no leaks are visible.

If anyone else has had this problem, please share with me your solution. I feel the need to take the drain valve off and replace the o-ring, but do not want to go into it blindly

My truck is a 1999 F-350 Superduty with a 7.3L, 104,000 miles on it.

http://community.webshots.com/album/214337536vWQdvN

 

I got the same problem. It only does it in cold weather.

 

I've never done it myself but you can remove the drain valve and go up to the local hardware store and buy the correct sized o-rings, replace them and have your problem fixed. There's lots of people on the board here who have written in and said that.

 

<!--StartFragment -->Thanks Kwikkordead, I will check into that later this week. Do not know much about diesel stuff, but if I own one I guess I will have to learn about them. Was searching other places on th WWW and found this thread:

http://www.dieseldoctor.com/messageboard/data/552.html

 

What about simply caping off the drain tube? Of course one would have to remove the cap when ever you need to drain it, then simply cap it off again. Or possibly installing some kind of valve at the end of the tube.

 

I definitely would not suggest capping the drain line. The fuel bowl is under high pressure when the vehicle is running and it will probably blow the hose off if done that way. Change out the oem valve or o-rings and save a lot of headaches in the future.

 

Thats what I am going to do, fix the o-ring problem

 

It would seem to me to be a lot easier and less work to just fix the drain valve.

 

Just replaced my valve two weeks ago. My diesel mechanic said if I have to go some where prior to fixing it I could plug up the tube for a temporary fix but still would have to fix the valve as soon as I got the parts. Ford only sells the the valve and o-rings as unit, even though they do list the o-rings as a seperate part number. After I took my valve off (be prepare to get real up close and personal with the top of you engine) I had to lay on top of it for about a total of an hour/hour and half. Anyway, I couldn't see how just replacing the o-rings would have helped my problem. If I blew on the valve in either the on or off postion it allowed air to go through the valve. To me it looks as if the o-rings are only for sealing the valve to the filter body. Once I had the new valve installed no more leak and I was good to GO! The valve cost me at Ford $31? Had to wait one day because my local dealer doesn't stock many parts. To remove the valve all I had to do was plastic engine cover on top of the engine, move one harness bolt so the harness in the back could be moved farther out of my way, and removed the drain tube from the vavle prior to removing the torx screws. Yes, screws! there are 4 little torx screws holding that small valve on. It would really help to have a stubby torx driver if possible. I had to make do with a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket with a torx bit stuck in the socket. Then I was only able to get a few clicks of the ratchet per turn, a very slow process.

 

Well now I will know what to expect when i go to fix the problem. Thanks.

Have you ever been to MCRDPISC, Semperfipsd?

 

This is actually a pretty straightforward fix-it-yourself project. It should take you about an hour after you get the parts and proper tools.

Before you change anything, turn on your key to pressurize the system. Locate the small, yellow-handled fuel filter water drain valve on the firewall side of the fuel filter. Exercise this valve a half dozen times. Maybe you'll get lucky and blow out the cause of the leak. Otherwise:

You need:
1. A #20 Torx driver socket for 1/4 inch drive.
2. A 1/4 inch ratchet
3. From Home Depot's plumbing department, two #90 Danco o-rings. If you don't have a H-D local to you, they're 1/2" od, 1/4" id, 1/8" material, available from most hardware stores.

Optional: Proper size socket and ratchet for removing the "Powerstroke" plastic cover from the top-front of your engine.

For ease, remove the "Powerstroke" cover.
Locate that yellow valve handle at the side closest to the firewall. This is the drain valve. Remember how the pieces are oriented for later re-assembly. Better yet, take a digital picture. There are four #20 Torx screws holding the valve to the filter body. Using the driver socket and ratchet, remove the four screws. Using a toothpick, pry the two little yellow o-rings out of where they fit. Replace them with the two you bought. Lube the threads on the four screws. Re-assemble and check for leaks. Replace the Powerstroke cover.

Dat's all, folks.

SpringerPop

 

Nstag8r, Nope never made it over to the sandpit I'm a hollywood marine! was stationed in the armpit MCLB Albany, Ga one time! Good luck on the repair.

 

thanks Springer and all.

 

i had to replace the drain on my 2000 it was $35

it was squirting down into the engine valley

 

To EDIT my post, #11, above:
Danco customer service tells me that their o-rings are not made of buna-N, but plain 'ol buna, which is not the best choice for fuel applications. I will be getting some different o-rings through McMaster-Carr that are designed to better stand up to fuel.
Thought I better alert you all so I don't lead you down the wrong path.
SpringerPop