The exhaust backpressure sensor is located in a little mounting bracket just to the right of the thermostat on the water pump. There is an line going to it from the front of the drivers side manifold (looks like they just used an overgrown double flaired brakeline actually). It is just mounted to the side of the water pump via a sheet metal bracket near the top.

If you still can't find it, I can take a picture for you.

 

Thanks PSD, that's pretty good directions even I can follow.

On the EGR thread, there was a lot of talk about soot build up. The EGR channel seems to be a lot bigger in diameter. If soot buildup was an issue, wouldn't it be a problem for the smaller diameter tube going to the EP sensor? I wonder if it is prone to clogging since the EP sensor plays such a big role in the VGT actuator?

Bob, that makes you correct that the EP sensor is inbetween the exhaust manifold and the turbo inlet. I wonder what effect a free flowing exhaust post turbo has on the EP pre turbo?

 

Who knows I wouldn't be surprised if it is a possible issue.

It is already evident with this machine that the biggest engineering blunders accompany the biggest engineering marvels.

 

Just a little info for the folks reading this thread and thinkin about new exhaust, I ordered the hog 4" turbo back from motorhaven and the quality is quite good, I found the removal of the down pipe to be the hardest part,(took it out in one piece), once that was out of the way the parts were flying and an hour later I was finished, (that first two hours getting the stock exhaust off was murder) my truck is an early 03 & had the resonator, now just off idle it has a definate high pitched whistle that is pretty loud but in the upper rpm's under a good pull it has a mideivel sound to it, also when installing a 4" down pipe you have to "tunnel" the cab, there is a seam where the fire wall and floor board is pinch welded and sticks out about an inch, the instructions said to use a portapower and bend the lip out of the way, I found that a small cresent wrench adjusted down to just fit over the pinch weld worked good for bending it over, if you do not do this the DP will not fit and if you happen to get it in there the DP will vibrate on the pinch weld and drive you mad in the cab,
If anyone has any onther questions give me a holler I'd be glad to help out as much as possible,

 

On the hog performance webpage it says to install the 4" downpipe in the 6.0 you have to port the firewall pinch weld so that the downpipe does not vibrate the firewall. They use this hand pumped jaws of life looking tool to open up more space for the downpipe. Have any of you guys done this mod or is it optional with the 4" downpipe?

 

Sorry I typed before I read the last reply. Disregard.

 

Thats ok I typed before I read the whole second page oops,

 

On page 32, photo #62, is a diagram of the air management system. The Exhaust Pressure Sensor is between the turbo and the cylinder head(exhaust port)

Page 50, photo # 112, shows a photo of the EP sensor and an electrical diagram of how it is wired.

I'm sorry I wasn't more specific the first time.

 

I would think a free flowing exhaust has little effect on packpressure except at wide open throttle. I think that wide open throttle is programed as a maximum fuel/air event with little or no consideration of exhaust pressure.

 

I think a with wrench to bend it over plus a short handled hammer to "massage" the firewall a little you should have no trouble.
Also a small floor jack will do the trick also.

Also if you mark the down pipe with a marker (so you can weld it back later) then saw it with a sawzall, it should be a lot easier to remove.

 

The wrench sound like a good shade tree fix...
have heard of some that just took a small hydralic bottle jack and just pushed the seam out with that ....

those shade tree guys are quick studies, aren't they

 

What's "The Bible" and where do I get one????

 

I tried the bottle jack but it did not fit to well, also I removed the trans cross member to take the DP out in one piece and when using the jack or portapower you have to jack against the bell housing/back of engine and to do so you would have to reinstall the cross member so the engine/tranny woud not move while jacking agianst them, I use a 6 or 8 inch cresent wrench and bent it as far as I could then used a bar and hammer the rest of the way (may not have been necessary) but I did it for good mesure,

I thought of another thing earlier today, if you remove the DP in one piece watch out for your tranny dipstick tube mine has a shnazzy new shape (no leaks and the dipstick still goes in),
The reason I took it out in one piece is a swazall does not fit in there any better than a bottle jack,