I picked up a bed for my 48 F1 last month. The one I am rebuilding did not have a bed on it when I got it. It is in pretty good shape, sidewalls and fenders are all there. After I got all the junk out of the bed and the rusted metal floor and the roting boards removed I noticed the crossmember directly behind the axle broken. Looks like I can weld it back together, not too big a deal.

But (and here is where I need help) the broken crossmember behind the axle was the last crossmember on the bed. Now I am assuming there had to be something at the end of the bed (tailgate side) holding things together. I have pics of what I have,. I will try to post later for added clearity of what I have.

Does anyone have specs or pics detailing what should be there?

The parts catalogs list a "rolled something or another" but no pics. I am not at home with the magazines or truck so I know this is a pretty rough description.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

There is a last crossmembeer at the end of the bed that is slightly different from the other three. This last crossmember connects to the curved bottom end of the stake pockets. My attempts to describe it would be pretty confusing, the best thing would be go to a website that sells the crossmembers and beds and look for a picture of how they are put together. I got mine from MAR-K (www.mar-k.com), click on "Installation Information". Pros Pick has new design beds that in their instructions shows how the last member fits, but theirs' is a redesign that looks different. Here's the link to the instructions - (http://www.pros-pick.com/docs/ford_b..._1948-1972.pdf). Good luck. It's not tough, just make sure it's square and has room for the hinges for the tailgate on the pockets.

Matt

 

Thanks for the help Matt.

Now that I am home and can look at the truck again. I see what I think is the last crossmember you are talking about. There is some rolled metal attached near (or at) the bottom of the bed stakes. It stops (has been cut?) about 3" in from the stake pockets.
I also see a angle iron (approx 1" x 1") just a few inches in front of the rolled metal. Is it supposed to be there also?

Which one attaches to the frame?

Anybody got a bed out there intact that they can check for me?

 

This info is also of interest to me, and is kind of what I was after in the seperate thread Bed Mounting Holes

From what Matt said I gather there is supposed to be four crossmembers.
It sounds like on Oscarxyz's new/old bed #3 is broken and #4 is hacked about ??

Is the above info correct?

What is the spacing between the crossmembers?

Do they all bolt to the chassis?


Mark

PS Hope this is viewed as constructive within this threat and not as a hijacking attempt !!

PPS Does anybody have photos of a bed with the floor out - I think it would really help Oscar and KNOW it would help me!

 

No angle iron origianlly, sounds like somebdoy was making "improvements". Mine had some on to that we cut off when we replaced the bed. All 4 crossmembers bolt to the frame using varying thicknesses of rubber mounting pads depending on how true your frame is. I will have to get back to you on the measurements for each crossmember. The front one is maybe two inches back from the front bed panel, the rear one is right up against the back of the bed, and the other two are pretty much equidistant between as I remember. I haul a canoe and other stuff in mine, so I went pretty utilitarian with the mounting. For the purty top I used a 1/4" sheet of plywood cut into two strips to get the 49" width with cherry trim strips for holding it down, then underneath that used long stainless carriage bolts all the way through an old oil-soaked 3/4" sheet of plywood, through 1x4 frame on top of all crossmembers, through the crossmembers, through the rubber mounting pads, through the frame holes and lock washers and nuts on the bottom. Also used one big eye bolt to tie the canoe to. Hey, it's a truck, right? I don't have any pics unfortuantely. If you go with some sort of sub-frame like I did (1x4), watch out for the curved rail next to the fender mounts. I cut sections out of my 1x4 frame to account for those.

Matt

 

Hijack away... No I don't see this as a hijack.
All information in and around the area of the bed will be usful to me.

I have some pics of my bed (as is). I will review them and try to post. I expect they are move focused on the tail end where my problem is, but maybe it will help.

I can also take some measurements this weekend, as my bed has the floor removed and is loose from the frame.

 

I have a few pic in my gallery now of the bed and missing crossmember. #3 is the rear crossmember area.

I would guess the rolled piece attached to the stake pockets is actually a complete part and not a cut off crossmember.

Any thoughts on that?
Or should I plan on removing it and starting over?

LMC calls it a "stake pocket brace", and has a drawing, but it does not look the same. Does the parts catalog have an inacurate drawing or am I just being hopeful?


I will try to get some measurements this weekend.

 

The picture in the instructions from Pro's Pick is actually for late 50-72. The roll pan area doesn't apply to 42-mid 50's.

You guys are right about the first three. Here's a little more info on the rear crossmember/roll pan: The rear x member is made of 3 pieces.
1. The main roll pan that is shaped like a "U" with lips. The front edge is lower to correspond with the truck frame where it bolts. The back edge come up higher to support the bed wood.
2 and 3. There are connectors (one on each side) that are shaped like a half-stake pocket on one end and the u-shape of the roll pan on the other end. They get welded to both the stake pocket and the roll pan. Do the stake pocket first and keep the stub at 90* to the pocket. You may need to replace the stake pockets as well since it is very difficult to remove the old stubs.

When these 5 pieces (roll pan, two connectors and two stake pockets) are welded together and to the box sides it forms a very rigid system. As mentioned above the roll pan is the last crossmember.

Bolts go thru the skid strips to bolt the box frame to the truck frame - except for the front two, which end up in the middle of a wood panel and use a larger bolt with a hugh washer for support.

Go online to Mack Products, Moberly, Missouri for these parts. They produce them for Mac's and others. You can buy them cheaper direct. I ripped mine all out and replaced everything that was badly rusted. Used only the panels and box frame. The way your's looks I'd at least get new crossmembers to weld in.

Sorry for the book. - Tim

 

I dont know about oscarxyz.......but this info and his photos have helped me heaps!

I now know which bolt holes in the chassis I need to blind thread before I put the boxing in.

Hey Oscarxyz........You call that a parts truck!......it's ten times as good as what I started with!

And it's an F1......I started with an F6 cab and an F3 chassis I am shortening

Supply of projects is pretty lean here in Australia......and I have a severe case of deep pockets and short arms! (Total expenditure too date is $550.....including the 351C and FMX!)

 

I expect you are right, parts are a little more scarce there then here. But it did take me a year after I got started to find this one which I thought was a long time.

I was looking for a bed and got a running board patch and cab corner patches also. I am pleased with the find.

I took some measurments (if they are of any help to you).
I measured from the rear of the frame rail to the center of each bolt hole. The bolt holes are 1/2" diameter.

From the rear edge of the frame to the back x-member: 3/4"
From the rear edge of the frame to the next x-member: 21 1/4"
From the rear edge of the frame to the next x-member: 50 1/2"
From the rear edge of the frame to the front x-member: 73"
and then another 3 1/2" to the cab wall.

Hope it helps.

Oscar

 

Thanks

As expected none of those measurements match what I have!

Hardly surprising when I have a cut down Australian F3 chassis that was originally a milk truck ie Kustom built tray

I just got all enthusiastic and cut the frame horns off to F1 length and then drilled all the holes at the measurements you provided.

I will weld in caged nuts and then start welding the C notches and boxing plates
hopefully tommorrow!

Mark