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I have a '50 F-3 that i am putting wood back into the bed. Do all of the bolts that go through the stainless steel strips also go through the wood cross-members? The reason I ask is that I purchased a bed strip bolt kit but those bolts are not long enough to go through the strip AND the 2.5" cross member.
I was able to salvage a couple of the cross-members, one thick and one thinner that sits on the hump. Do they make 2 different bed strip bolt kits and I got the wrong one? It's an LMC part number 40-0026. Do I need to use thinner cross-members?
Im not sure about the LMC bolt kits, but I can tell you that at least on my 50 F1, not all the bolts that hold down the board spacers go thru the xmembers. Ill post som pics of the underside of my bed. The first pic is the front end then one of the middle, then one of the rear. You will notice the only bolts that go thru the xmembers are the ones that actually land on them, the others just hold the planks together
A mistake I made was installing the box on the frame first......you need to install the wood onto the box and then install the box on the frame as it was apparently done at the factory
Im not sure about the LMC bolt kits, but I can tell you that at least on my 50 F1, not all the bolts that hold down the board spacers go thru the xmembers. Ill post som pics of the underside of my bed. The first pic is the front end then one of the middle, then one of the rear. You will notice the only bolts that go thru the xmembers are the ones that actually land on them, the others just hold the planks together
Thanks guys. Jimmy, it looks like you have about 1/2" gap between boards...is that about right? I have played around with different board widths for a while. I found that a 7 1/4" width on the boards with a 3/8" gap between would leave me with just an 1/8" extra on the outer/bedside gaps. Has anyone filled that gap between the wood and the bedside with rubber fuel line or some other filler like the factory did to keep dirt or other material from dropping into the gap?
Thanks guys. Jimmy, it looks like you have about 1/2" gap between boards...is that about right? I have played around with different board widths for a while. I found that a 7 1/4" width on the boards with a 3/8" gap between would leave me with just an 1/8" extra on the outer/bedside gaps. Has anyone filled that gap between the wood and the bedside with rubber fuel line or some other filler like the factory did to keep dirt or other material from dropping into the gap?
Being a novice, I just used the boards as they came in the kit I got from Classic Haulers. I don't know what the optimum spacing should be.
Jimmy, I'm curious why there are boards across your crossmembers, and around the perimeter, under the main planks? Did you buy the wood as a kit? Did your bed originally have steel over the wood?
Jimmy, I'm curious why there are boards across your crossmembers, and around the perimeter, under the main planks? Did you buy the wood as a kit? Did your bed originally have steel over the wood?
Good point....I saw that on the Paintworks F-3. He had what looked almost like a shim that went on top of the side rails inside the bed where the boards bolt to.
Yes My F1 was an early 50, so it came with a steel bed floor over a wood sub floor. So to covert to a oak with SS dividers, I bought a spacing kit from Classic Haulers to bring things up to hide where I had cut out the spot welds along the bed sides plus If I remember rite to also bring it all to level. The kit provides spacer boards to go all the way around the bed lip, plus across the two? cross members. If you look at the pics I posted earlier in this thread you can see the 1/2"(?) spacer boards. I think they are oak. For the top of the bed, there are trim pieces for the front, sides and rear available. I only bought the piece for the rear, wich was a little short and did not quite make it to the ends of the SS board spacers. Maybe cause I didn't also get the front trim piece, I don't know, but I easily fixed it by adding another piece of SS to the rear.