Pulling motor tips/tricks
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
Pulling motor tips/tricks
Ok so the engine in my truck is ready to be removed. I think I have a broken pin for the piston/rod and I've got some internal knocking sounds. So...I'm pulling the engine.
I've never pulled an engine before...but have the facilities to do it so I'm going to (done everything else to the truck lol)...so apart from labeling things, pictures/videos...ziploc bags for parts...bins/organizing....what are some helpful tips for pulling the motors out of these F-150s? I plan to make a long list of my steps as I go....like writing down "removed left radiator hose" so that I have a checklist of things to put back when I put a new motor back in place.
Also, what are the often overlooked items when pulling motors from the truck?
Pretty much any tips/tricks ya got for removing the engine would be great!
I've never pulled an engine before...but have the facilities to do it so I'm going to (done everything else to the truck lol)...so apart from labeling things, pictures/videos...ziploc bags for parts...bins/organizing....what are some helpful tips for pulling the motors out of these F-150s? I plan to make a long list of my steps as I go....like writing down "removed left radiator hose" so that I have a checklist of things to put back when I put a new motor back in place.
Also, what are the often overlooked items when pulling motors from the truck?
Pretty much any tips/tricks ya got for removing the engine would be great!
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
I think you have the general idea, but I want to re-enforce one thing: be sure to label everything. You might say, oh I'll remember where that goes, but I promise you that you won't remember. Take your time, label things, organize bolts together with what they go to and take pictures if you think that might help. Go slow, watch clearances and you should be good to go. Drain all your fluids before you start, or plan on cleaning up everything that spilled out afterwards. Protect the a/c condensor with a piece of plywood so that you don't knock a hole in it should the engine slip forward while hoisting it out, or should you hit it inadvertently with a wrench or something.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 3
From: Cloud USA
a digital camera seams to work good too. Also find some long 7/16 inch bolts and cut the heads off. These work good to guide the engine back onto the transmission. Just thread them into the block. 4-6 inch work best. My 460 had a knock under load and it was a cracked piston skirt.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
When I do get the motor out..I plan on going over the entire harness cleaning up all connections and fixing any corroded wires. I am going to try and re-route some of the wires to make it a little neater in a few areas. I want a nice clean look. Thanks for the tips so far...
I do have a digital camera so that's good to go and I'm definitely the one to say "oh i'll remember that" and totally forget it...
I do have a digital camera so that's good to go and I'm definitely the one to say "oh i'll remember that" and totally forget it...
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
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all alone in the world
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,038
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From: oklahoma
pull the rad, dont want to slip and rip a big hole in it, and a little more room isnt gonna hurt anything.
jim
jim
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,959
Likes: 9
From: USA
One thing I find has helped me is after disassembling anything, I run the bolts back into the holes they came out of so I don't lose them or mix them up with with some other project or somebody else doesn't grab one they think is just laying around and use it for something else.
Good luck with the swap!
Good luck with the swap!
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 395
Likes: 11
I used a lable maker to lable all the wire connections, connectors, vac lines, bolts and anything else that needed a lable. It worked great. The lables are very strong and it makes it easy when you are doing work later. You can pull lines off everywhere and plug them all in just as fast when your done. Lable makers are cheap. I used the lables on bolts like on the water pump, I just wrote on a paper the bolt pattern and numbered the bolts on the paper, labled the bolts with numbers to match the paper and put the paper and bolts in a zip lock bag to use later. I didn't even have to look at any pictures I took when I was putting it back together.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
So far so good. Everything's done except I have to get the fuel lines apart, take the PS pump's oil line off (piece of cake) and unbolt the motor itself.
I put a question in the fuel injection forum if anyone wants to help me out about the fuel lines
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=282365
I put a question in the fuel injection forum if anyone wants to help me out about the fuel lines
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=282365
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 818
Likes: 0
From: everywhere and nowhere
dont feel bad, i have a really bad stickin valve, or the cam is dieing on me, and i might be goin through the same thing that you are goin through in a couple of weeks, already pulled it out one time, but am a little rusty on how to do it, just remembered that i took the readiator out, the hood off, and marked everything with masking tape in order clockwise, and put em in plastic bags based on what part of the motor it came off of. just my .02